Show us your hatch latches!

[DMcCam]

Howdy Folks! I'm at that point in my build where I need to figure out my hatch latches or at least look at all the options. I'd really appreciate seeing what everyone has done. If you get a chance please post a picture or two of what you did and perhaps why you chose to do it that way.

Thank you so much!

Dave

[aggie79]

Dave,

I used two of the nylon and rubber draw latches. These are easy to open and close. I did mount them so that the latch part is on the teardrop and the bracket is on the hatch. That way I don't have the latch hanging down when the hatch is opened.



I had purchased two different types of metal draw latches. For one, I didn't use it because I didn't care for the galvanized steel finish on one. For the other, I just didn't like the aesthetics of the design.

My plan was to install a stainless steel hasp too, so I can lock the hatch, but haven't found the need to. Our teardrop is stored in the garage at home, and where we camp I'm not too worried about security. We're of the mindset that we'd rather any potential thief get what they are going to take and not destroy our teardrop in the process.

Take care,
Tom

[planovet]

I used locking latches. With everything we have in the galley, I would not want someone to walk away with it.

Of course, if someone wanted to they could break it off with a little effort but I plan to make them work for it.

[Toytaco2]

Draw latches, similar to Mark's. I painted mine to match my molding.

Mike

[S. Heisley]

Made to work in almost any position, McMaster-Carr SS Draw Latches come with 4 different catches, displayed at their website. The latches can be keyed to match each other by a locksmith. My locksmith charged me $6 to do that.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6139a26/=e6hv2a

Zinc version is also available and less expensive, #6139a23, listed at the same website, above.




They are secured with stainless steel screws and 3M 5200, which will rip the wood out before the screws will ever come loose or leak (fingers crossed).

[Steve_Cox]

On my Tear, I had a pair of these from McMaster.com

[Aaron Coffee]

Right now my galley latch on #2 is a tarp strap in the galley, between a hook eye on the inside of the hatch to a eye in the lower galley. I hook the lower eye then reach thru pass thru window to latch the upper hook. I will be watching this thread, hopefully will get a good idea for mine.
Aaron

[Nobody]

I used a 'T' handle/locking bar arrangement from an old pick-up camper shell (these can be bought from different sources) that I modified slightly to fit my hatch (shortened the locking bars). Used large 'fender' type washers to reinforce the bar receptacle holes in the side walls. Since my side walls are 'stick' built with framing, skins (inside & out), & insulation, there was plenty of 'depth' for the locking bar receptacles -

The locking 'T' handle from outside


Inside



Locking bars extend at lease an inch into receptacles


The aluminum 'shields' around the receptacles have gotten 'beat-up- for various reasons. They're now epoxied in place (should've done that first)

[CARS]

Harvey, I like that! A pickup topper... cheap or free anywhere in the world.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

These are the latches that I've decided on for my new build...

Southco V7 spring loaded locking latches...



Since I havent even started my new build yet, here's what the latch looks like on my CAD model. Southco supplied the sweet 3d model of the latch, and I was able to manipulate it so that it was in the open position...

[DMcCam]

Wow, thank you all for getting into the spirit of this thread! What a great start! Has anyone used a regular automotive trunk latch!

Keep those ideas coming folks!

Cheers,

Dave

[CARS]

Wow, thank you all for getting into the spirit of this thread! What a great start! Has anyone used a regular automotive trunk latch!

Keep those ideas coming folks!

Cheers,

Dave

No, but I did look into them. I determined that they stick up too far for my design.

I work on classic cars so they are a little "bulkier" than what a latch out of a compact car would be. If you could find one small enough and your latch doesn't get in the way of your design (slide out trays, etc) it would be a great idea. You could even find one with a cable release and open it from your cabin!

[Chef_Stan]

These are the latches that I've decided on for my new build...

Southco V7 spring loaded locking latches...

I am not trying to be critical, but it looks like you are planning on mounting the catch part of the latch on a piece of wood. It looks like you are going to screw it into end grain. End grain on wood is not particularly strong with holding screws. Tighter grains do better like oak, teak etc. You could be planning something different, just trying to help. I tried a set up like this before on a trailer with gated sides and it did not work at all.

Stan

Stan

[CarlLaFong]

I'm still way into the planning stage, but I will probably rig up something using garage door hardware. Nice chrome locking handles run about 10 bucks. The rest, I will make from steel rod and maybe regular household door strikers and latches. I should be able to close the hatch as I would a door in the house, just give it a gentle push until it clicks.

[doug hodder]

With a little modification, a reproduction '40 Ford deck lid handle with the license plate light works great. Like many of the others it uses 2 rods to lock into the sides, keyed with a flip plate over the key hole. I used 2 32-34 Ford hood latches to suck it down on the weather stripping. I was wanting to use more automotive type handles/latches/lights/ornaments on this build. License plate holder was '40 Ford as well. Doug