Death Shower

[Moho]

Would you go out in a heavy thunderstorm, soaking wet, barefoot and change your lightbulb with the power on?

[satch]

So then the front porch is also a death trap in the rain?

Not really, most porch lights are under an overhang of some sorts, so they don't get hit with constant water. Plus, I don't know about you, but I don't know of anyone standing out on their porch, barefoot and naked, with the possiblity of touching a wet electric appliance.

My light is on the exterior wall not under any sort of overhang. It is right at eye level very easy to touch and right next to the metal mail box. Do I have a death trap entrance? My mail box is not grounded.

Just don't touch it when it's raining, and if you see the mailman on the ground, flapping like a fish out of water, I'd avoid that too!

Seriously, is there a way you could mount the light on the wall, sealed lens on the inside and the light housing on the opposite side of the wall?

[Engineer Guy]

I simply used 'Halo' Recessed 4", 5" and 6" Fixtures throughout our new House. One type of Can is thermally safe to immerse completely in blown-in Insulation; the type I used. This 'safe for Insulation immersion' detail was the first thing the State Inspector looked at during Inspection Sign Off.

There's a number of Trim Rings in the Product Line. One has a heavy, threaded, transluscent 'dome'-style Cover rated for Wet Locations. That's what I used in our Master Shower, and it was signed off during Inspection no problem.

While there's a chromed Metal Screen on the top of the screw-in Shower Drain, the rest of the fitting is white, non-conductive PVC. While Water flow goes to Ground, there's no Plumbing metal to Ground from this Drain.

I did not use a GFI on this Lighting Circuit on a 9' Ceiling. None was required, due to the impenetrable, Gasketed seal on the Wet Location Trim Ring. As of several years ago, it was Code to connect Outlets and Lighting to the same GFI. This is fairly common for outside Outlets and Lighting; protect everything at once.

There is some type of Thermal Switch in each Can. They turn off Electricity after time if too large/too hot a Bulb is put in. They automatically reset.

Each Can has clear maximum Wattage limits printed on the Can for various type and diameter Bulbs.

I realize that these recessed Cans may not be right for the OP Application. I can't speak for Cans installed horizontally. However, I wanted to convey what's 'standard' features for some Lighting at the Big Box Stores.

Halo - Cooper Lighting

[starleen2]

Aw shucks StandUpGuy - seems like you really want 120 v lighting for a wet condition. I say go for the sealed lighting of some sort - They do make them for swimming pools - seal the heck out of it 'cause your're pretty sure it's gonna get wet, but remember, you are gonna have to change the bulb at some point - could be a PITA - also be sure to insulate and waterproof the hell out of the wiring that might go around the shower - any moisture is going to corrode the electrical connections - See how far we can take this? Having said all this - go ahead and do it - report back to us how it went. I sincely believe that you are ovethinking this - I have only one 45 watt light that illuminates for my entire camper

[StandUpGuy]

Would you go out in a heavy thunderstorm, soaking wet, barefoot and change your lightbulb with the power on?

No but I would walk up to my front door in a thunderstorm where I have the soaking wet outdoor light fixture mounted on the exterior wall and touch the soaking wet wall 8 inches from the fixture while I unlock the door.

[Moho]

Bottom line is a wet location light fixture is SEALED from water penetration. A porch light isn't. Good luck with your install.

[bdosborn]

GFCI's trip only when there's a ground fault

No, that's not right. A GFCI trip unit measures current going out on the hot and current returning on the neutral. An imbalance of 5 mA initiates a trip. You don't even need a ground wire for GFCI function and code allows ungrounded receptacles to be retrofitted with GFCI type.

BUT, having GFCI doesn't mean you can't be electrocuted.

Scary Shower Death Link

Granted this is the unfortunate end result of very bad judgement but it was an eye opener for me because the GFCI didn't prevent electrocution.

Why not get more light using an incandescent 12V light? You wouldn't be using it for very long so the increased current draw wouldn't be a battery buster. AND, you don't get scary electrocution links.

Bruce

[StandUpGuy]

I do not have a DC system only AC.

[bdosborn]

How about one of these: GE 55219 Battery Operated Push On/Off Round Mini Touch Light


Amazon link
I've used them before - pretty handy

Bruce

[StandUpGuy]

The outdoor fixture I have is a deck light. It has a gasket that seals between the glass cover and the fixture body. Two screws tighten a metal surround that squeezes the glass to the body and compressed the gasket. It is pretty well sealed actually. The fixture itself does not have a seal for against the wall however.

[Wolfscout]

I'd not trust a deck light in the shower. it's made for running drip type situations , unlike a shower. And no 12v lighting? so no boondock camping? how sad.
If I worried about seeing myself in a shower,
I'd run a 12v submersible trailer light on the ceiling and be done with it.

[S. Heisley]

A couple ideas for you:

- Are you planning on showering at night? If not, why not put a vent (powered or non-powered) in the ceiling over your shower and use "free" sunlight. That would also help eliminate excess moisture. Battery operated puck lights would probably be okay for dim days; or just hang a battery operated lantern (some of those are very bright).

- If you're electrically talented, maybe you can find an old swimming pool light and rebuild the back of it for what you want. They have to be waterproof. Or, maybe you can find someone who'll do that for you.

- Also, I think there are shower downlights that are commercially available. Check with a company that sells lights. However, please recognize that these last two solutions would probably not work with 12 volt; so, you'd have to have shore power.

[StandUpGuy]

I have installed this light today with thoughts of providing a barrier from shower to light. I will either make a plexi element that protects the light or more likely I will put in a clear plastic shower curtain to seperate the shower side from the tolet side. I kind of like the idea of a shower curtain covering the toilet during a shower anyway. That way I do not feel like I am showering with the toilet.

I do really appreciate the comments here. Better safe than sorry with water and electricity.

[mezmo]

Hi StandUpGuy,

I guess this is moot now, but I was going to suggest that you mount
the light on the interior wall of the shower that faces towards the front.
Mount it on the EXTERIOR of that wall so that it would shine through a cut-
out in the shower wall into the shower. The cut out opening - sized to the
light - should be covered with a plexiglass type cover and a nice perimeter
trim to look nice. Attach the plexi-cover with silicone caulk adhesive over
the cut out perimeter. Then attach the trim and caulk around the trim with
the white bathtub caulk for a seal of that.

You want light in the shower. Nothing says that what provides the light
has to be IN the shower as well. Do all the GFI stuff when installing it too.
But if you mount the "works" outside the shower where it can never get
wet and the light gets into the shower, your mission is accomplished! Of
course, the switch has to be outside the shower, but that'd be a plus since
the shower space is so small already.

So Here, the Solution would be to 'think outside the box' and mount the
light 'Outside The Shower Box'. [Pun groans are allowed.]

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

P.S. I'd think twice about the shower curtain. You don't have enough
room. It will get in the way and try to become a second skin as you move
about. I'd make a cover of some type for the toilet instead if you don't
want it to get wet. [If your bath isn't a wet-bath - I don't recall - then
I guess you do need a curtain or panel of some sort.]

[StandUpGuy]

Hi StandUpGuy,

I guess this is moot now, but I was going to suggest that you mount
the light on the interior wall of the shower that faces towards the front.
Mount it on the EXTERIOR of that wall so that it would shine through a cut-
out in the shower wall into the shower. The cut out opening - sized to the
light - should be covered with a plexiglass type cover and a nice perimeter
trim to look nice. Attach the plexi-cover with silicone caulk adhesive over
the cut out perimeter. Then attach the trim and caulk around the trim with
the white bathtub caulk for a seal of that.

You want light in the shower. Nothing says that what provides the light
has to be IN the shower as well. Do all the GFI stuff when installing it too.
But if you mount the "works" outside the shower where it can never get
wet and the light gets into the shower, your mission is accomplished! Of
course, the switch has to be outside the shower, but that'd be a plus since
the shower space is so small already.

So Here, the Solution would be to 'think outside the box' and mount the
light 'Outside The Shower Box'. [Pun groans are allowed.]

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

That is a good idea. You are correct though it is moot. I mounted the light already. Wired to switch and all.

To me it is a little creepy showering with the toilet right there. I rather like the idea of not washing the toilet while I wash my feet. So a clear plastic curtain will kill two birds with one stone.