how to terminate stranded wiring on a breaker

Anything electric, AC or DC

Postby Moho » Tue Oct 04, 2011 10:51 pm

Well I walk away from this thread and section of the forum and state the obvious, most people are amateur at best when dealing with electrical wiring. Ninety five percent of the general population do not know how to solder properly, they have the "more solder is better" mentality. I picture the wire ends with cooled solder dripping from them, which I have seen countless times. So my take on the content was based on a view for the average builder.

Also the common household will most likely have 50/50 or 60/40 solder which is not silver bearing. I was speaking to the point of "Joe Smith" stumbles across this thread and wires his trailer up using stuff laying around his house. Using a solder iron more than likely over or under wattage for the application with no tip temperature control and will leave it on for an extra hour, "just to make sure it's hot enough"

The best and safest method for the average builder would be using ferrules and not soldering them. I'm not trying to get in a pissing match here but the safety mentality in this section of the forum, after reading countless threads, astonishes me at times and I was trying to convey a safe and easy method for "Joe Smith".

Yes I am fully aware it is possible to solder a 110v connection (IF DONE PROPERLY) but I'm in no way support the average builder doing this and hence why I was arguing not to do it. The "average builder" in this section thinks it "ok" to install a 110v porch light in a shower and when it comes to temperature or enviornment limitations of a strand of wire will look at it and say "This is some thick wire, it'll work." :roll:

I'm in no way trying to insult anyone who posts here, or belittle anyones ability. I am just trying to help convey a safe way for the average joe to do electrical runs in a safe and responsible manner that can be done with the normal available household tools, supplies and knowledge. As most of the knowledge taken from this section of the forum is for people with limited electrical know how, who don't post or will find the thread long after the original posting date. My advice is primarily for them.

Also just to clarify, my advice isn't based on "feel good" application. I am a retired electrical engineer, yes I am 37 and was able to retire. I am trying to explain basic application to the masses without providing content that they will glance over and skip or will go way over their head. I was giving the basic answer.

The short answer to this huge debate is if you run across this in the future and have to be told it's safe to apply solder to a AC connection, you most likely don't have the proper tools nor experience to do it safely. Use a sleeve (or ferrule to be politically correct). That is the point of my argument "to the bitter end" against doing it.
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Postby aggie79 » Wed Oct 05, 2011 6:51 am

Thank you all for the replies. I've ordered some ferrules from Mouser. BTW, I checked the instructions for the 30 amp marine inlet and it says to not solder the ends. The inlet does have, like Bruce mentioned, the brass tabs on either side that help bind the conductor. Once I get the ferrules I'll relay my experience using them.
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Postby eamarquardt » Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:29 am

Actually, if it has the brass tabs I wouldn't use the ferrules as they will minimize the contact area between the brass tabs and the ferrule as the ferrule won't compress like the stranded wire will. If you like, depending the receptacle, a better choice would be spade (forked) terminals crimped onto the wires and then clamp the spade in between the brass tabs.

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+1

Postby Engineer Guy » Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:45 am

What Gus said twice...

Portable Cordage Connectors are designed to capture Stranded Wire. A 'work around' solution of using Ferrules with them is not advised. Ferrules may reduce contact area; not a good thing...
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Postby aggie79 » Wed Oct 05, 2011 11:39 am

My last post was confusing. For the wiring connections to the inlet (with the brass tabs that will help capture the strands. I do not plan to use the ferrules for the inlet connections.

The breakers that I am using - I believe the design is standard for all resdiential house-style breakers - do not have the brass tabs. They have a cylindrical opening where the wire is inserted. Perpindicular to and through the cylindrical opening is a threaded set screw that mechanically binds the wiring.

I plan to "red neck" test using a ferrule and stranded wire in a spare breaker to see if the set screw alone will deform the ferrule and wire sufficient enough to have a mechanically tight (and hopefully as a result an electrically conductive) attachment.

Thank you again for your comments and suggestions. It has helped me increase my knowledge of electrical systems. I hopw to learn more from y'all in the future.

Sincerely,
Tom
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Postby proformance » Thu Oct 13, 2011 12:07 am

Moho wrote:Well I walk away from this thread and section of the forum and state the obvious, most people are amateur at best when dealing with electrical wiring. Ninety five percent of the general population do not know how to solder properly, they have the "more solder is better" mentality. I picture the wire ends with cooled solder dripping from them, which I have seen countless times. So my take on the content was based on a view for the average builder.

Also the common household will most likely have 50/50 or 60/40 solder which is not silver bearing. I was speaking to the point of "Joe Smith" stumbles across this thread and wires his trailer up using stuff laying around his house. Using a solder iron more than likely over or under wattage for the application with no tip temperature control and will leave it on for an extra hour, "just to make sure it's hot enough"

The best and safest method for the average builder would be using ferrules and not soldering them. I'm not trying to get in a pissing match here but the safety mentality in this section of the forum, after reading countless threads, astonishes me at times and I was trying to convey a safe and easy method for "Joe Smith".

Yes I am fully aware it is possible to solder a 110v connection (IF DONE PROPERLY) but I'm in no way support the average builder doing this and hence why I was arguing not to do it. The "average builder" in this section thinks it "ok" to install a 110v porch light in a shower and when it comes to temperature or enviornment limitations of a strand of wire will look at it and say "This is some thick wire, it'll work." :roll:

I'm in no way trying to insult anyone who posts here, or belittle anyones ability. I am just trying to help convey a safe way for the average joe to do electrical runs in a safe and responsible manner that can be done with the normal available household tools, supplies and knowledge. As most of the knowledge taken from this section of the forum is for people with limited electrical know how, who don't post or will find the thread long after the original posting date. My advice is primarily for them.

Also just to clarify, my advice isn't based on "feel good" application. I am a retired electrical engineer, yes I am 37 and was able to retire. I am trying to explain basic application to the masses without providing content that they will glance over and skip or will go way over their head. I was giving the basic answer.

The short answer to this huge debate is if you run across this in the future and have to be told it's safe to apply solder to a AC connection, you most likely don't have the proper tools nor experience to do it safely. Use a sleeve (or ferrule to be politically correct). That is the point of my argument "to the bitter end" against doing it.


You are Spot-On..........!!! I hope persons head your post.

Some times a "Little knowledge" is a very dangerous thing.
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Postby StandUpGuy » Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:07 pm

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