galley drawers are done

[CarlLaFong]

Extremely low tech, but you could fasten a piece of cord to the back of your cabinet. Drill a hole through the back of the drawer, pass the cord through the hole, tie a knot in it and cut off the excess.

[bobhenry]

My maternal grand father was a ships master carpenter in the navy and he hand built a roll top desk that was in the basement of the house for years .

( until the moisture destroyed it )

I got the wood worked gene real bad from both grandpas and I was always interested in what did what. As I remember this was the swinging stops in the old desk I loved so.



The long end of the swinging stop caused it to stand up yet you could swing it to the side and completely remove the drawer with ease.

[CarlLaFong]

The problem is, he has no face frame or upper lip for the stop to catch on

[S. Heisley]

Use plastic baby locks by putting them on sort of backwards. Put the back tab near the drawer top's front, on the underside of the counter, at the point where you want the drawer to stop. Put the baby lock hook (that is normally put on the front) on the back of the drawer. When the drawer is pulled all the way foward, the baby lock's hook will do its job backwards; and, if you want to remove the drawer, you just reach up inside and press down on the baby lock hook's neck and it comes undone. It's easy...no fabricating to do. Just buy them and think backwards when you install them.

[CarlLaFong]

I see two problems with the baby locks. First is the installation. It's gonna be a real booger to screw the locks into the cabinet, unless it come apart. There's just no room to maneuver a screwdriver in those little spaces.
The second is the drawer boxes and the openings that they slide into are, essentially, the same size. There is no room for the baby locks. He could cut down the backs of the drawers to accommodate them, but there is still problem number one. Using metal guides would have solved the problem, but that's water under the bridge now. For limited, occasional use, I like wooden guides anyway. They're cheap and lightweight. There are a bunch of coulda, shoulda and wouldas here, but I won't go into them. For a first time set of drawers, they ain't too shabby. A small upper face frame, even a quarter inch would have given enough of a lip for the, previously mentioned "gravity toggles" to work (OK, allow me one "shoulda"). The cord idea that I had in my other post is, somewhat, inelegant but might be the best option, so far.

[bobhenry]

The problem is, he has no face frame or upper lip for the stop to catch on

OOPS ! missed that bit of info


Looks like a dowel pin pointing down glued in the underside of the top is the only answer I can come up with. It would stop the back of the drawer and still allow you to tip it up and remove the drawer.

[CarlLaFong]

That would work. You would have to drill the holes for the dowel at an angle because the cabinet is assembled, but it would still work. If you can borrow an angle drill and get, or make, a stubby bit, the hole could be drilled vertically. This would be an excuse for me to buy a new tool.
I have a sign in my shop that reads, "Every project requires, at least, one new tool."

[BillZ]

I can remove the whole shelf/drawers assembly to install stops on the underside of the counter. That would be no problem. I would also have to notch out the dividers inside the drawers to allow the stop to get by.
That is one solution.
I also like Carl's idea of using strings running from the back of the drawer to the back wall. Very ingenious!

Thanks for the ideas!

[CarlLaFong]

I was over thinking the cord thing today, as I tend to do. If you had a few of these parka drawstring thingees, it would simplify things.

Give me some time and I'll figure out how to build electric, remote control drawers