A slide in for a utility trailer?

[SimpleGreen]

Hey, Ive been lurking all this week, thinking how neat it would be to build myself something. I've been looking at all options, mostly HF trailers with small TDs build on them or larger 'standy' units.

However, after considering the cost of a trailer, and everything I want to ad, the price started to grow. And then I would still have a difficult time getting everything I want on such a small trailer, and keep it comfortable under the weight limit, fully loaded.

Then it dawned on me. I totally forgot I have a late model 5x10 trailer. It's very nicely built. It has a 3500lb axle and uses a standard 5x5 Chevy truck pattern wheel and stock sized tire. It's structurally excellent. Just needs a fresh paint job and new deck planks. However, I still do occasionally use it as a utility trailer.

So, how difficult do you think it would be to make, basically, a 5x10 box with a 5.5-6 foot roof that simply slides into the trailer, like a truck bed unit? Consider a 5x10 camper unit with a bed, 110V and 12V power built in, perhaps a small AC unit (this is Louisiana, after all) and other amenities, that is built in a light weight fashion, then put it on, say, 8 heavy duty casters that are recessed into the floor frame on either side. When you need to use the trailer, like a trailer, simply have a purpose built stand for the cabin (this would be the easiest part) that you back up to and roll the cabin off. When you want to use it, simply roll it back on. Devise a few simple ways to safely secure it to the trailer, and voila, a versatile, easy to use, camper. It's fully self contained and leaves nothing behind on the trailer.

I know it's really utilitarian sounding and doesn't have the elegance of a TD, but I think done nicely, it wouldn't be anything to scoff at.

Thoughts? Feel free to point out anything I may be forgetting.

BTW, here is an actual picture of my trailer (just 3 years old, LOL).

[cuyeda]

Many have built what you are thinking of. However, your side rails are a bit higher than the other builds which will present additional challenges. How creative can you get building a door entrance (side or back). If you are willing to modify the existing rails lower, then you will have many more options.

[LWW]

I don't see a problem with that trailer. Just cutout the rail where the door goes and weld on a tab with a hole and make that part of the rail removable. When you need it to be a trailer to haul just bolt the rail back on.Larryw

[Mojave Bob]

Weight and price are indicated to be important. This sounds like the perfect opportunity for a foamie build!

[Kharn]

You'll need to consider the breakover angle if you want to move the trailer down the ramp with wheels, but if you build a stand that puts it directly in line with the trailer (how easily can the ramp be removed?), you might be able to get away with nylon skids underneath the body so it would just slide from the trailer to the stand. A come-along might be necessary depending on the weight, but it would require a lot less interference with the interior.

I like the idea of cutting the side rails for the doors and leaving a way to bolt the removed section back into place for hauling stuff.

[SimpleGreen]

Lets see if I can reply to everyone, lol

I'd prefer not to modify the rails. I think I can make do with the rear door configuration. I actually think the front 6 feet would be a dinette area that turns into a bed by night (its too narrow to turn the bed sideways) and the back 4 feet or so would be storage, maybe a 'kitchen' type space to one side of the door.

I read into foamie builds a lot. I actually skimmed every thread on the first two pages. But, I think I'd prefer to work with wood. If I do a luan and 1x wall like tear drops have the weight wouldn't be too bad.

If I were to pursue this, the stand would be built level with the trailer. Nylon skids would be easier and more durable but harder to remove. I figure on a mostly level plane, it would roll on and off pretty easy. I do see what you are saying though. I figure the caster setup and the frame work for it could easily add 8" to the overall height, whereas a nylon skid would be probably an inch at best. The gate comes off the trailer very easily. Simple tilt it down and pull to one side and it slides off of its pins.

Thanks for the input thus far. I'm still playing with ideas. I won't rule out starting from the ground up yet

[sagebrush]

If you modify the side rails the strength of your trailer will be reduced.
How about using 3 or 4 camper jacks like on a pickup camper, and just pull the trailer out when you want to use the utility trailer. Then make some horses to sit the camper on.
Will

[SimpleGreen]

If you modify the side rails the strength of your trailer will be reduced.
How about using 3 or 4 camper jacks like on a pickup camper, and just pull the trailer out when you want to use the utility trailer. Then make some horses to sit the camper on.
Will

That would be a great idea but at a great cost, too.

-Chris

[Wolfscout]

Tim the Toolman Taylor could geewhizbang up an answer in a manly fashion. Just saying. LMAO

[pete42]

if the rails were added to the trailer after it was bought then removing one rail top for a door would not weaken your trailer.

you say you like a rear door which would work great.

remember to keep it simple to convert the more complicated it is the less it will be used.

nice trailer by the way

pete

[Engineer Guy]

Before I scored my 15' 1989 TT w/unused 3 kW Genny for $2.3k, I was going to make my own Camper -> Slide In to fit my 5' x 9' Utility Trailer. There's always some 'Truck Camper In Trailer' Units for sale on Craig's List. Some nice - and not nice - Units show up this time of year as Hunters set up Camp around us. The nicer Units gave me some good ideas, just as on here.

Nice Homemade Units on line emphasize solid Wood Frame construction w/a few 45 degree Braces for rigidity, as in Houses or Geo Domes. I was going to 'build out' and over my side Rails. I figured something integral like 2 - 4" x 4"s front and back sideways that went just outside the Wheel width would allow putting Jacks under those 4 bys to lift up the Unit a bit and allow pulling out the Trailer.

Depending on space and balance issues, I was going to build out beyond the Trailer rear edge a bit. I was also going to build forward a few feet, but not so much that the Box would hit the back of my SUV when going up a steep Driveway incline. In this front section, I would have half the Bed pull out and over Counter Space only at night, like a Cutting Board goes into a '50s Kitchen Cabinet. A Cutting Board that goes over the Sink to maximize Counter Space, and other space recycling ideas would be the fun part to execute with Design pride.

The side Stakes on your Trailer could hold support Frames. On those, you could securely hold a Propane Tank and Jerry Cans, and similar Supplies [Chairs?]. This would use the external space under the Box that 'hangs over' the Side Rails. On the interior, that overhang was going to be Counter surfaces, etc.. Another Hunter's trick is to put a commercial Truck Camper a foot or two back on the Trailer to avoid conflict with the Camper Cab-over Section. In that front space on the Trailer, they put 30 lb. Propane Tanks and several Batteries. Some then tastefully box in that front section temporarily with painted Ply to manage Mud.

'Stress Skin' Construction, where something like 1/4" Ply is glued onto the Framing to make it one solid Assembly, would make a light, very strong Shell.

I was going to put thought and sweat into a slightly curved Roof to eliminate leaks 'no matter what'. Serious Insulation is another fixation of mine. Starting with the basics and growing into the Box design was going to be part of the customizing fun, while recycling Interior Components; Vents; Lights; a Door; and Windows on the cheap. A messed-up Camper with Water damage would be one way to get items like a Furnace or Water Tank inexpensively. Get those Components, and then design around them.

I've heard it often enough that I believe cutting Rails compromises Trailer strength. With 'stuff' strapped onto the Trailer sides, I was shooting for a ~20 minute Camper -> Trailer load-up time. The Camper front/back 4" x 4"s could buckle down to the Trailer Frame sides, just as a Truck Camper does.

Used Truck Camper For Sale - Parts

[angib]

You could 'skid' the slide-in onto the trailer using loose rollers, just like the Egyptians did. Once in place, a prybar under a strong point would lift the slide-in enough to get the rollers out. One roller at one end might be enough to get it moving with a good push.

[Engineer Guy]

Well, not QUITE the way I woulda dunnit, but everyone has a different vision, eh?

Truck Camper On Utility Trailer - Example

[mj1angier]

I am doing a bunk house that is starting out like your idea but it is not staying on the trailer. I am unloading it at my hunting grounds. The building part was pre-made mil. surplus shack. It weighs about 2300 lbs. This is how I plan to unload it

2 strong L-shaped brackets mounted on the front and back, a 2- 8' 4x4, and some 4x4 and 2x6 to make the bracing. 8' 4x4 will go under the l bracket and bolt to them. Trailer tounge jack will be lowered to it lowest point making the back of the trailer rise higher. Bracing will be built under back 4x4. Trailer will be jack up to highest point in front. Bracing built under front 4x4. Jack lowered to mid point. pull trailer out from under.
MSpaint to help understand

[SimpleGreen]

That's a pretty slick idea.

I haven't wrote it off completely...but I am eyeballing a popup camper for sale locally. It has a LOT of potential both for being kept in tact and being stripped.