StandUpGuy's TTT (Not-a-RV)

[StandUpGuy]

yesterday I worked on the shower pan as I had planned. My plan was to make a shower pan out of EPDM membrane and then use neopreme caulk as my "mortar" and "grout". The first problem I encountered was that I could not make a clean un wrinkled shower pan liner with the membrane. The odd shape of my bathroom floor made for a truly horrible execution. It is terribly lumpy and wrinkled. I thought to myself that it would be ok as long as it was water tight because I was going to cover it with the neopreme and tiles. The problem is I did not test the neopreme first. It is not suitable as a grout material or mortar as it will not clean up from the tile. It was a big mess. I removed the tile and wiped down the black caulk material a little and left it.

So now I am considering my options. It will function as a shower pan already as is but it is truly ugly. I am thinking of making a wood grating for the floor and let the shower water drain through the wood grate and then down into the rubber pan below. I lose a little precious headroom with this idea.

Please no suggestions of using a premanufatured shower pan. It will not fit my bathroom.



By justoneman at 2011-10-30

[David S]

When my uncle converted a school bus to a camper he had a shower something like yours.He made a pan from fiberglass,no form just built in place with white gell coat finish.It actually looked and worked very well.

[starleen2]

How about fiberglass mat / epoxy, sand smooth - then top with gelcoat?
Davis S beat me to it!

[StandUpGuy]

When my uncle converted a school bus to a camper he had a shower something like yours.He made a pan from fiberglass,no form just built in place with white gell coat finish.It actually looked and worked very well.

That is a good idea. I might do that.

[GuyllFyre]

Also an idea is to look for concrete mixing pans that may be the same or similar enough size to use.

I do agree with the fiberglass/epoxy route though, could very easily get you a smooth, sealed, and durable shower pan without the wrinkly rubber.

[chartle]

Also an idea is to look for concrete mixing pans that may be the same or similar enough size to use.

I do agree with the fiberglass/epoxy route though, could very easily get you a smooth, sealed, and durable shower pan without the wrinkly rubber.

Yea find a pan and build the shower around it.

[StandUpGuy]

Yea find a pan and build the shower around it.

...Please no suggestions of using a premanufatured shower pan. It will not fit my bathroom.

I purpously did not do that because of many factors which you have not in your quick statement even begun to consider. I could write a book here as to why I did not use one of the many various shower pans available that I researched for weeks. For me and my build I have this space you see and will make a shower pan work in that space as I have it. At this point I am not looking to rethink my already constructed layout. For me it is layed out as efficiently as can be.

[chartle]

Yea find a pan and build the shower around it.

I purpously did not do that because of many factors which you have not in your quick statement even begun to consider. I could write a book here as to why I did not use one of the many various shower pans available that I researched for weeks. For me and my build I have this space you see and will make a shower pan work in that space as I have it. At this point I am not looking to rethink my already constructed layout. For me it is layed out as efficiently as can be.

I was too quick.

Not a real shower pan, any kind of "pan" dish, roasting pan, etc.

[StandUpGuy]

Look my bathroom has a step down area to create some additional headroom. It is very oddly shapped. There will be nothing that will even come close to fitting my bathroom floor area. It is not just a matter of the drop down area the whole floor needs to be water tight and conduct the water towards the drain. Whatever I do will need to be custom made to suite.

[S. Heisley]

The fiberglass idea sounds like your answer. I suspect that would work pretty well, once enough epoxy is layered on.

You might want to add something to the last coat of epoxy to keep the shower floor from becoming too slippery...don't know....

[StandUpGuy]

The fiberglass idea sounds like your answer. I suspect that would work pretty well, once enough epoxy is layered on.

You might want to add something to the last coat of epoxy to keep the shower floor from becoming too slippery...don't know....

Yes like a "grit" or maybe just that rubber bathtub non skid stuff over the cured fiberglass pan.

[chartle]

Look my bathroom has a step down area to create some additional headroom. It is very oddly shapped. There will be nothing that will even come close to fitting my bathroom floor area. It is not just a matter of the drop down area the whole floor needs to be water tight and conduct the water towards the drain. Whatever I do will need to be custom made to suite.

Ok got it. I and guess the poster before me was just looking at the shower part not the whole floor.

If this was a standard home install you would just be looking at putting in a full mud bed with ceramic tile but I don't think it would last due to the bumps in the road.

[StandUpGuy]

Look my bathroom has a step down area to create some additional headroom. It is very oddly shapped. There will be nothing that will even come close to fitting my bathroom floor area. It is not just a matter of the drop down area the whole floor needs to be water tight and conduct the water towards the drain. Whatever I do will need to be custom made to suite.

Ok got it. I and guess the poster before me was just looking at the shower part not the whole floor.

If this was a standard home install you would just be looking at putting in a full mud bed with ceramic tile but I don't think it would last due to the bumps in the road.

Yes my plan was to do it in a similar way as a standard residential install. The neopreme caulk was to substitute for the mud as it adheres to EPDM rubber. It did not work as I had hoped.

[StandUpGuy]

My mini tank hotwater heater arrived this afternoon. As is with all things on my trailer I have planned for a tight fit for my water heater. I decided on this unit based on the price and the fact that it was tall and narrow rather that square and boxy. This allows for the narrowest cabinet as I could make. That in turn allowed for a bed length of 6'-2". The other compromise is the controlls of the heater will be accessed through the connecting bench seat hatch.


By justoneman at 2011-11-03

Here is the unit placed inside the cabinet for sizing up.



By justoneman at 2011-11-03

[StandUpGuy]

Maybe I need to rename it the "Shoe horn".





By justoneman at 2011-11-03