Pics of scary axle setup, and questions on what to do next

[Bellinghamster]

It's a homebuilt teardrop on a 1930s Chevrolet front axle and frame. Ridiculously heavy, sloppy welds, rust in critical spots, and to top it off? 17" wheels!

The body exactly 72" wide, with the wheels inboard, so to speak. 115" body length.

So here are my questions:

1. 72" wide with inboard wheels is an unusual size. I'd love to find a used utility trailer to mount the body on, or at least a good used axle/suspension/wheel setup, but I'm not holding my breath. Anyone seen something that would fit and care to point me in the right direction? Would I be waiting forever if this was the size I wanted?

2. Is shortening an axle safe? Any ideas what a welder would charge for in in the Pacific Northwest? There seem to be a lot os slightly wider old travel trailer frames/axles out there to be had on the cheap.

[Shadow Catcher]

You can probably restore rather than replace, however Dexter should be able to make a lief spring axle that will fit exactly and less expensively than you would think should you decide to replace. One way to think about it, the welds have held this long. I did weld inspection for 25+ years and the word for it is gorilla weld, strong but ugly, but I also would fail them because you do not know how good they are.

[aggie79]

That is a scary looking setup. If it were me, I'd ditch the leaf sprung axle and subframe. A torsion axle bolted to the outer frame or leaf spring axle with new hangers on the outer frame would work a lot better. Of course this assumes that there is adequate clearance to fit the wheels and tires within the wheel wells.

[doug hodder]

So what's your big picture plan for this trailer? Restore, rebuild, or fix and go?

Doing about anything with that axle isn't going to be cost effective. Just order up a new axle to your length and put some new springs and hangers on it. A tube type axle can be cut down pretty easily. For pricing, just call a local welding shop and ask what it might cost for them to cut a 3" tube axle down if you brought it in stripped and ready to go. I'd just order one.

Depending on the quality of the build and the age it has on it...swapping the body off onto another frame might really open up a can of worms on it all. Doug

[bobhenry]

Where are you going to find fully greasable shackle eyes on a modern axle. It has held up under a 3500 pound pickup for 30 years and now a tiny trailer for the better part of 3 more decades just what kind of a guarantee do ya want ?????

I personally think it is part of the charm of this old jewel

[Dale M.]

IF you have the skills you can adapt almost any "new" axle under frame.... If you need a dropped axle there are several manufactures that offer them, either custom built width or just buy a item off the shelf and modify to fit.... Replacement spring and such are available also.... You can also buy spindles and hubs and springs at discount trailer parts stores online or through Nortern Tools and fabricate up what you need to fit ...Some front wheel drive mini vans (Dodge-I think) have a solid rear axle that may be adapted.... Biggest concern may actually be frame... IF it is in same shape as axle it doubt you are going to find enough solid material in place to anchor new axle parts to....

What I see is the early Chevy frame section under trailer box with no visible connection what appears to be main frame rails (channels) running from front to rear about 6-8 inches out from section springs are mounted on... This does not appear to be really good deign and axle/spring would seem depend on floor only to support full load of trailer... At least if you are going new axle "catch" what appears to be full frame rails spanning front to rear



(image severely manipulated [lightened] to show more detail)

One may consider a whole new frame and suspension built to match old frame dimensions and just slide the living compartment onto a new chassis... From what I can see in pictures that would be my suggestion...



Dale

[Bellinghamster]

I'll need a whole new frame. It's just too big, and rusted out right at the front of the trailer where the main rails bend to make the A frame. I was actually pretty nervous about the axle snapping on the way home, luckily it wasn't far!

[Treeview]

Scrap iron prices are pretty good. YOu have a lot of iron there, might off-set the cost of the new setup!

[eamarquardt]

Sounds like you are uncomfortable with the entire frame and want a new one.

For maybe $500 in materials you can buy all new metal, axle (made to the exact width you need), springs, coupler, etc. Then all you need is a chop saw and a welder. Network, search Craigslist, trade schools, and other sources to find a person to help. It would take a day to fabricate a new frame. For an additional $100 you can scrounge up some modern rims and good used tires.

It would be pretty easy to cut off the existing suspension and bolt on an entire new one. Here is how my suspension system is done. Spring hangers welded to angle iron and the angle iron gets bolted to the frame. Only 10 minutes of welding (easily done on a bench versus under the trailer). The only PITA is that the radius in the corner of the angle iron has to be milled out so the angle iron will fit flush against channel iron that your frame is made out of.




First though decide exactly what your objective is, detail the approximate costs and see if it's truly what you want to get involved in, and if you will end up with what you're seeking.

That's the "project manger" in me coming out, ha!

If you plan the work and work the plan anything is possible!

Cheers,

Gus

[glenpinpat]

my trailer is 72" wide with inbound wheels. They are not 17" wheels though. Many popup trailers are the dimensions you are looking for and can be bought for 200.00 or less. Get one that would be rated for 1500lbs. Tear apart the popup reinforce where needed. build a 3/4 plywood base and slide the other one right ontop. Patrick

[Treeview]

The preceding post is spam