Removable Foamie "Pod"

[lax71vcu]

I am thinking of building a removable Foamie "Pod" to put on my trailer to use for camping and remove to use the trailer for hauling. My Trailer is 6x12

I am leaning toward a foamie because it is light weight. I want to save as much weight as possible so would also like some input on things like entry/exit design. I am trying to get an idea if I would be better off designing a pod that has One single entrance in the back or two at the sides. I want to be able to get out with out being too disruptive to anybody else in the trailer.

What would you suggest to use as the floor that would be strong but still light weight?
I was thinking using 1/4 inch marine ply with pressure treated 2x4's for rigidity and for lifting points.

Then I was planning on making a foam profile with straight lines (similar to the weekender) using pressure treated 2x2 as structural framing for doors, windows, etc....
I was planning on skinning the foam with TB II or III then drop cloth canvas. Let dry. Then recover in TB II or III. Then Finally Paint.... Color to be determined....

Any input or redirection on these ideas would be great.
Thanks,
Nick

[GPW]

Nick , sounds like a Plan !!! If your UT has sides on it you may want to make the door in the back for convenience , and the bed in the front ...
I don’t think I’d want to use PT wood anywhere I would be sleeping ... Nasty stuff ...
For lightweight floors , we keep reading about how the Old Timers used T&G boards for the floor ... A nice Cedar or so would make a very light and strong floor , and have no problems with de lamination as ply would (eventually) ...

The T2 and canvas (latex painted ) has worked perfectly for us throughout our Brutal summer and so far into the winter season , it hasn’t changed at all ... checked it thoroughly yesterday , still perfect and that’s living Outside in the weather ... uncovered ... a testament to the durability of T2 and canvas ...

Just another idea ... if you’re going to be sliding the cabin on and off , you may want to put some “sacrificialâ€

[Treeview]

If you decide to use treated lumber for framing be sure to use the right fasteners or the chemicals in the wood will dissolve the fasteners.

There are other choices for framing material. Cedar works nicely. It might be a little more expensive. Since there isn't much used in a trailer build the cost won't hurt. You will save some money by using plain, plated, fasteners.

I've wondered about using 'plastic wood' for underframing. I can't imagine why it wouldn't work.

[GPW]

Tree, how does plastic wood compare to the real stuff .... must be like a really dense Foam eh ... ???

[wagondude]

The plastic wood ( i am assuming composite decking here) is very heavy and flexes quite a lot. When used for decks, they spec joists on 12" centers rather than the 16" centers for real wood. Personally I would go with the cedar for the weight savings in the framing.

Bill

[GPW]

Bill, Thanks !!! I have no experience with plastic wood ... as yet ...

[mezmo]

Hi lax71vcu,

I'm an advocate for using perimeter framing for wall and roof panels,
especially if going the TBII&III and fabric way, plus don't forget any
needed hard points for interior bulkheads, shelves etc.. I'd stay away
from PT wood for it though. It is not meant for precision or small
dimension piece use. It will warp and twist and bow etc. and drive you
nuts, plus there is the fastener corrosion consideration. Find some
naturally rot-proof wood -cedar, cypress, larch [I think] and use that
instead. The small amount you'd need won't be that expensive in the
final analysis. Of that, I'd also use a wood that takes fasteners well -
avoid those with heavy pronounced ring structure showing as that will
divert fasteners away from where they should go [and from where you
want them to go usually]

Let me suggest radiusing the outside edges of the perimeter framing
members of the panels that form the body's exterior edges [~1/2 or 3/4in
radius]. It is a small thing, but from what I've read, out and about, even
that will help a bit aero-wise, but the main reason is to help the
fabric/canvas and glue covering to transition smoothly over the 90 degree
joining of the panels, and to ease the stress point there on the covering.

Forum member Erik/ohbugger, in his nontraditional 'Truck Canopy Trailer'
build did this to his 3/4in plywood [plus interior frame] base and then
covered that in the fabric and glue and paint. It turned out fantastically.
Check out his whole build thread when you can. Here is a link to pg5
below. Go to the 5th posting [his] and there are pics of the base and truck
cap/canopy united. The base's covering looks seamless and even matches
the outside edge radius of his fiberglass truck cap/canopy as well.

http://tnttt.com/viewto ... c&start=60

Good luck with your plans and build.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

[swampjeep]

I've also been thinking a "pod" to use on a trailer I already have. My trailer is 5x8 with 10-12" sides. I was thinking I would make the floor sit on top of the sides with some extra supports running to the main floor of the trailer, this would allow doors on the sides, and also storage between the pod and the trailer floors.

[mezmo]

This new post today by squatch shows what I mean by radiusing the
outside edges of the Foamie's body.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/t ... -Kubic-1-0

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

[lax71vcu]

I will def use cedar tongue and groove for floor....I could also use cedar t&g nailed together to make vertical supports/ framing. I would use the framing to insert foam panels..... I think. This May be too heavy. If so then I will use less framing. I am trying to think of a profile/ floor plan for this design as I just can't come up with one in my mind I think will serve all my needs.

Oh and my UT is a flatbed.... Thanks for all the input please keep it coming....

[GPW]

Lax, seems there's never one that serves ALL your needs ... Best go for Simple and Practical at first ... easy building is Nice too...