Cargo Trailer Options - Questions, Questions, Questions

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Hi everybody and Happy Holidays to you all!

I’ve been hanging out here for a while in L&L (Lurk and Learn) mode.
While I continue to keep my eyes open for a good used CT for my project, I thought it would be useful to go to one of the manufacturer’s sites and price out a new trailer, built with just the options I want. I THINK I understand MOST of the options, but there are a few that leave me puzzled, and I was hoping that some of you here could enlighten me on them.

I see that, for extra money, you can have the sides put on without screws. This is done how? Industrial Strength Epoxy Glues? What is the advantage, if any, of doing this? Is it stronger? Is there a problem with water leakage at the screw holes on regular construction? Or is this purely a cosmetic thing, so you can do vinyl graphics? Bottom Line: Why would I want to spend extra money for this feature?

Axles: The base unit at the site I was at are leaf spring units, and torsion axles are an optional (Extra $) upgrade. I have read that Torsion Axles give a smoother, more manageable ride on good paved roads. I have also read that they are a bad idea for trailers that spend a lot of time off-road. Supposedly, heavily rutted dirt roads make them work so hard that the heat build-up drastically shortens the life-span of the internal rubber components, leading to early failure.

I would welcome comments from experienced users on this.

Tires: Bias Ply Trailer Tires are standard, and Radial Ply Trailer Tires are an upgrade option (Again: Extra $). While doing some research at a tire site, I came across the following warning against using Radial PASSENGER tires on a trailer:
[i]“Sidewall flexing on trailers carrying heavy loads; trailers with high vertical side loads (enclosed/travel trailers); or trailers with light tongue weights, is a primary cause of trailer sway. Automotive radial tires with their flexible sidewalls notably accentuate trailer sway problems. The stiffer sidewalls and higher operating pressures common with Special Trailer (ST) tires helps control and reduce the occurrence of trailer sway. Bottom line, trailers are more stable and pull better on tires designed specifically for trailer use.â€

[vreihen]

When I was trailer shopping, I read an online forum frequented by trailer delivery drivers and other professional haulers. Dexter torsion axles were the choice of most people there. My 24' race car hauler has torsion axles and radial tires, and it follows behind my truck fine with little fanfare. I have a few friends who said that I was crazy for not running sway control, and that the first time that I passed a tractor-trailer at highway speed I'd be on my side in a ditch from the side draft. Must be because they had spring axles and bias ply tires.

Regarding the underbelly, I have not heard about anyone offering it as an option. If they put it on the bottom of the floor crossmembers so that it seals them like a wall, you will probably get a measurable fuel mileage gain from having the air flow underneath more smoothly than if the crossmembers were exposed. I don't know if you have looked at over the road trucks lately, but many are now putting side skirts onto the trailers to break up the under-trailer vortexes to increase fuel mileage. Even if they only get 1 MPG better, that's a huge savings across a fleet of trucks. If you plan to do a lot of highway driving and don't mind the weight, that's an add-on that might be worth considering.

I noticed that a one-piece roof was missing from your shopping list? Don't know what size trailer you're looking at, but some larger ones come with spliced roofs unless you spend up for the one piece sheeting.....

[Optimistic Paranoid]

I noticed that a one-piece roof was missing from your shopping list? Don't know what size trailer you're looking at, but some larger ones come with spliced roofs unless you spend up for the one piece sheeting.....

In my original post, I only asked questions about the options I don't understand or am unsure if I want. A one piece roof, along with frame and roof members on 16" centers instead of 24", and a double thick floor are all no-brainers for me.

Still, you had no way to know that, and I AM a newbie and COULD be missing something obvious, so everyone please feel free to mention items you think I might have missed.

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Regards
John

[pete42]

John I don't have a cargo trailer
but I have owned several pop-ups, all fiberglass travel trailers, and standard aluminum sided travel trailers.

SIDES: the smooth sides are in fact glued on to the trailer just as they are on some travel trailers.
they don't have that dimpled look like the screwed on sides, not to say they are always smooth.

AXLES: on some travel trailers I've owned had the spring axles some had the torsion axles pulling and ride I could not tell the difference.
On two of my all fiberglass travel trailers the manufacturer stressed that when storing them that the trailers must be jacked up which allowed the rubber to return to normal,
I have seen and read about the axels needing replace because the rubber had lost it's flex offering no support for the wheels
I used mine in the winter months in Florida and only stored it during march april always jacked up never had any problems.

TIRES: you will get owners who like one or the other I always went with radials making sure they were trued and balanced a round tire runs better.

SUBFLOOR: not for me other than I like the wood to be able to breath and the plywood floors on most trailers are pressure treated
and while they do rot; proper care goes a long way in preventing rot I can not give you a reason other than that.

[Shadow Catcher]

The smooth sides are most likely 3M VHB tape which is stronger than a mechanical fastener, rivet or screw. Yes the torsion bar axles are not the best choice if you will be doing a great deal of off road driving but with the addition of shock absorbers, not so bad.

[Optimistic Paranoid]

AXLES: on some travel trailers I've owned had the spring axles some had the torsion axles pulling and ride I could not tell the difference.

On two of my all fiberglass travel trailers the manufacturer stressed that when storing them that the trailers must be jacked up which allowed the rubber to return to normal,

I have seen and read about the axels needing replace because the rubber had lost it's flex offering no support for the wheels

I used mine in the winter months in Florida and only stored it during march april always jacked up never had any problems.

That's interesting. I turn 62 this year, and this is intended for doing a LOT of traveling when I retire.

SUBFLOOR: not for me other than I like the wood to be able to breath and the plywood floors on most trailers are pressure treated and while they do rot; proper care goes a long way in preventing rot I can not give you a reason other than that.

The place I was looking at apparently uses regular plywood for the floors. Pressure-Treated plywood was a +$ upgrade. Given that the chemicals used to pressure-treat wood are usually not particularly healthy to breathe, I have grave doubts about using it inside a box I will be sleeping in for long periods of time.

Thanks for your insights.
Regards
John

[Optimistic Paranoid]

The smooth sides are most likely 3M VHB tape which is stronger than a mechanical fastener, rivet or screw.

So the screwless sidewalls are stronger, huh? OK, point for them.

Yes the torsion bar axles are not the best choice if you will be doing a great deal of off road driving but with the addition of shock absorbers, not so bad.

That confirms what I've heard elsewhere. I also like the fact that leaf-spring axle trailers are higher and have more ground clearance that torsion axle trailers. (Other than the axle tube itself, obviously.)

Thanks
Regards
John

[elmo_4_vt]

The only thing I haven't seen addressed was the bogey wheels. They are usually a very strong steel wheel (like on automotive floor jack) that are placed at the back of the trailer so that if you go over a large grade change, they will hit the road first and allow the trailer to "roll" instead of scrape. Think of when a truck goes up a driveway, the hitch goes up with the truck, the back end of the trailer goes down towards the road. Enough of a height difference, and the back of the trailer will drag. The wheels make it a little nicer.

Don

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[Gadget Man]

When I started looking at options for my Adventure Trailer I had the option of the screw less sides, it was a $295.00 up charge.
I was told it was the super strong 3-M sticky tape, but it was not recommended for areas that have harsh cold winters (20+ degrees below zero) because the adhesive can let-go. My dealer said save your money and just get the full screwed on sides.
So I thought about it for about 2 seconds and decided if I spend an extra $295.00 I could have the possibility of the sides letting loose, I chose to save my money. That was a real no-brainer.
The torsion axles and radial tires are a must have, spend your money on those items.

[pete42]

I was thinking one thing and wrote another when I said the floors were pressure treated the ones in my Scamps were sprayed with epoxy.

I visited the plant and watched them being build from start to finish

the plywood floors were taken to the fiberglass area and sprayed with several coats of epoxy

pete