epoxy that is not exposed to UV does not need to be protected.. epoxy that is only needs it if it's to be used on a bright finish as the only real damage done is cosmetic, unless you're talking extreme lengths of time.. as in decades..terryjones1 wrote:I have used 1/2" plywood for the floor on my trailer.
I, first, coated the underside with several coats of CPES.
I, then, coated the underside with several coats of Raka epoxy.
Since the underside of the trailer will not be in direct sunlight, I figured that I would not need to provide uv protection.
Anyone have comments? suggestions? experiences?
.
Oldragbaggers wrote:I use Smith's CPES and according to their website, this is how they describe their product.....
"Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealerâ„¢ (CPESâ„¢) consists of a tough, flexible resin system in a solvent blend which dissolves the sap, oil and moisture found in wood. The resin system is derived from natural wood resin and develops a chemical adhesive bond to the wood fibers themselves."
That does not sound like pure epoxy to me???? It is flexible, which epoxy is not, it is made with natural wood resin, which epoxy is not....
afreegreek wrote:Oldragbaggers wrote:I use Smith's CPES and according to their website, this is how they describe their product.....
"Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealerâ„¢ (CPESâ„¢) consists of a tough, flexible resin system in a solvent blend which dissolves the sap, oil and moisture found in wood. The resin system is derived from natural wood resin and develops a chemical adhesive bond to the wood fibers themselves."
That does not sound like pure epoxy to me???? It is flexible, which epoxy is not, it is made with natural wood resin, which epoxy is not....
1) CPES is epoxy.. it also contains a number of solvents and other additives.. it's primary purpose is to penetrate rotten wood.. the solvents, thinners and other additives are included to do a number of things.. primarily, to reduce it's viscosity and allow it to penetrate and to prolong it's transition from liquid to solid.. which allows deeper penetration and the release of solvents/thinners before it reaches a gel state and traps those solvents/thinners in the resin.
2) the word "epoxy" is like the word "paint".. it is a generalization as there are literally hundreds of variations of epoxy.. some are flexible and some are not.. some contain significant portions of cellulose and some have none..
from wiki..
"These commodity epoxy manufacturers mentioned above typically do not sell epoxy resins in a form usable to smaller end users, so there is another group of companies that purchase epoxy raw materials from the major producers and then compounds (blends, modifies, or otherwise customizes) epoxy systems from these raw materials. These companies are known as "formulators". The majority of the epoxy systems sold are produced by these formulators and they comprise over 60% of the dollar value of the epoxy market. There are hundreds of ways that these formulators can modify epoxies—by adding mineral fillers (talc, silica, alumina, etc.), by adding flexibilizers, viscosity reducers, colorants, thickeners, accelerators, adhesion promoters, etc.. These modifications are made to reduce costs, to improve performance, and to improve processing convenience. As a result a typical formulator sells dozens or even thousands of formulations—each tailored to the requirements of a particular application or market."
3) wood is a composite material.. it's main component is cellulose, the fibres the cells are made from.. and lignin, the glue that binds the cells together.. the resins, oils, and waxes in wood are not part of it structural properties, they are there primarily to prevent rot and decay and to prevent insects and microbes from making a meal out of it..
4) I didn't say CPES was pure epoxy.. the quote was.." it's 'thinned down' epoxy for the price of pure epoxy.." which it is..
West Systems, System Three, Raka, Industrial Formulators and similar brands of epoxy do not have added thinners, they are resin and hardener only.. it's up to you to add thinners or other additives yourself..
Here is a good site re thinning epoxies. Note the letter from "Rot Doctor's" attorney! Go to the home page and learn more.
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/penetrating4u.html
Cheers,
Gus
good find Gus.. love this quote "Our competitor's product (we will call it "ABCD") is a penetrating epoxy with almost a cult-like status."eamarquardt wrote:Here is a good site re thinning epoxies. Note the letter from "Rot Doctor's" attorney! Go to the home page and learn more.
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/penetrating4u.html
Cheers,
Gus
3) Water resistance of a piece of wood is not enhanced by deep penetration. Wrapping wood in plastic makes a pretty good waterproof seal without any penetration at all. Likewise, an epoxy coating on the surface is more water-resistant than a thinned epoxy coating that has penetrated deeply into the wood because, in most instances, the epoxy thinned with solvent is porous.
afreegreek wrote: it's just that it's the equivalent of buying nail polish remover instead of acetone.. they're the same thing except for the price..
eamarquardt wrote:I just love it when a good "myth" is laid to rest!!!
I'd go swimming now but I just ate and have to wait a half hour.
Cheers,
Gus
terryjones1 wrote:I have used 1/2" plywood for the floor on my trailer.
I, first, coated the underside with several coats of CPES.
I, then, coated the underside with several coats of Raka epoxy.
Since the underside of the trailer will not be in direct sunlight, I figured that I would not need to provide uv protection.
Anyone have comments? suggestions? experiences?
.
Larry C wrote:Here's some more interesting reading from the highly respected Wests System.
http://www.epoxyworks.com/14/ThinningEpoxy.html3) Water resistance of a piece of wood is not enhanced by deep penetration. Wrapping wood in plastic makes a pretty good waterproof seal without any penetration at all. Likewise, an epoxy coating on the surface is more water-resistant than a thinned epoxy coating that has penetrated deeply into the wood because, in most instances, the epoxy thinned with solvent is porous.
If you want to know the ingredients of the product you wish to use, check the MSDS, it lists all ingredients, I believe it's listed with the greatest concentration shown first, with lower concentrations in descending order.
IMO/ you should always read the MSDS before purchasing a product to be sure it won't cause you possible harm, and to to know if your actually getting what you think you are.
Here's the MSDS for couple of popular products used by members:
CPES:
http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/msdspdf/CPES_WARM_PART_A&B.pdf
Wests System 105 Resin W/ 207 Hardener:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/MSDS/MSDS105.pdf
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/MSDS/MSDS207.pdf
Raka 127 Resin w/ 350 Hardener:
http://www.raka.com/raka%20127%20900%20tabletop%20superfast.html
[url]http://www.raka.com/epoxy%20hardener350.html[url][/url]
Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 0 guests