Fiberglass ttt Opinions

[the other side]

I'm trying to get some opinions of the fiberglass ttt's like the Burro, Casita, Bolen, etc... How do they hold up as they age? What do I look for if I'm looking at an older one (let's say a 1983)? What maintenance do they require? Can you add a window? etc...

[emiller]

They hold up very well. I know a few that have had Bolers and most will have a sagging door because of a flimsy chassis but can be fixed easy. Really don't hear to many issues with the others.

[Nobody]

They also hold their value very well. Not uncommon at all to see a mid to late 70's/early 80's in usable condition go for $3.5K up. A nicely maintained or restored, same age can bring $5-6K easily. Not too sure 'bout other brands but Scamp & Boler seem to have had torsion arm type axles (Kraftco?) that lose all their 'flex' within about 20yrs or so. I bought an 84 Scamp 13' about a year ago. Got it for a good price but the interior was sorely lacking. No cushions for the rear dinette or the front bunks (PO had just stapled some fabric over top of 'egg crate' foam on top of plywood), skylight vent had broken (let in some water) & been replaced with a sheet of stainless steel, & the floor under the dinette had been replaced. The interior vinyl ensolite (elephant skin) wall/ceiling covering/insulation was mildewed in many places from the moisture when the vent broke. The leading arm 'torflex' axle had deteriorated from a 10-22.5* down angle to approx 10* up & the only flex left was in the sidewalls of the tires . I've replaced the axle with a 2K Dexter, leading arm w/brakes. done lots of cleaning inside & out, replaced the old converter with a new WFCO w/3 stage charger, & the front/rear window gasket seals, & installed new LED lights in & out. The old 3-way Dometic fridge still works well. I'm removing the front couch/bunks & building in a 2-person dinette w/porta potti storage under one seat, so the rear dinette can remain made up as a full time bed. I still have a long way to go to 'make it mine' but can maybe, kinda, sorta see the light at the end of the tunnel. It's as much fun working on it as it was building my TD. I expect I'll have around $3K (not counting my labor) in it by the time I'm done but in the Fiber Glass RV community it should be worth considerably more

[the other side]

The one I'm talking about has a 2 burner stove top and an ice box. I would really like to be able to replace the ice box for a refridgerator, but I don't really HAVE to. Heat is no issue because you can use one of those ceramic heaters. Air conditioning would be GREAT. The vent/window in the ceiling for a fan. It does have the table that converts to a bed and the bunk beds on the other end.

I kind of like your idea of converting it to a table and keep the table for a permenant bed, but I would like to be able to convert the "new table" into atleast a single bed when I need it. How do you connect things (such as a table or bench/chair) to a fiberglass surface?

You said you would have about 3K in it by the time you were DONE. I am assuming for a very basic/ limited options camper like the one I'm talking about, the value should be less than 3K until the options are put in then?

Do you have any ideas what I should be able to look for as far as BIG problems?

Thanks loads for the info!!!

[reo-ron]

My experience is that the fiberglass holds up well. I have a 1961 fiberglass Trailerboat, 1971 fiberglass Compact Jr. and a 1979 Scamp. They have all held up pretty well. The Scamp has had the hardest life but it is still going and I use it some every year. Too bad your not close or your could come by and take the "plastic" trailer tour! hahah The Compact Jr is for sale if your interested. It's refurb'd inside and out and has A/C and it's $4500. I could get it to MD or some where in between if you want it.
Ron in Tulsa

[mary and bob]

We have a 1984 Uhaul, 13 foot, they are well made but many of the parts are unique to only them. The windows are noted for leaking, but can be rebuilt. We got a good deal at $1800, they typically go for $3500 to $4500. A trailer that age will probably need something like wiring or tires or some repairs unless a previous owner has already done so, but that puts the price higher although sometimes it can be worth buying a trailer that needs nothing. We spent three weeks last month in ours and were very comfortable. It still needs some work, but is useable as is.

[Old Coyote]

We have a 1977 trillium, bought used (of course) in 2010 that was so well taken care of by it's previous owners it could pass for new. Here's a web site for fiberglass eggs :http://www.fiberglassrv.com/index.html lot of good stuff there.

Herb

[Crazy4Kits]

I've had a Compact JR and still have an 89 14' wide burro. The older fiberglass trailers are very expensive and hard to find on the west coast. B e advised the frame on the lite weight fiberglass trailers are made of very thin material and subject to failure. I just rebuilt the frame on the Burro I have at a cost of 1500 with me supplying the labor. I had a few shops look at it before I did the work and to separate the body from the frame and repair it was at least 3500.00.

When I finally got the body off the frame the frame was broken in half and was dragging on the ground behind the axle. A true testiment to the fact that the body of our trailers provides most of the strength not the frame.

Be carefull these old trailers can be very expensive to repair. My opinion is that the Scamp's are the best. The body is split horizontaly unlike the u-hauls and Burro's which have a vertical seam. I think the horizontal seam is more water tight and holds the body shape better.

They are great trailers, and I'd deffinately buy another, but be careful. My frame was badly damaged when I purchased it, but I didn't see the cracks. They were on the TOP of the rails on both sides of the axle and on the front section where the tounge meets the square portion of the frame.

[Crazy4Kits]

Of all the small fiberglass trailers I've seen the Casita's are the nicest. The Bigfoots seem to be built the best but are heavy.

[cuyeda]

You might want to visit thehttp://www.fiberglassrv.com forum for more information.

[Nobody]

The one I'm talking about has a 2 burner stove top and an ice box. I would really like to be able to replace the ice box for a refridgerator, but I don't really HAVE to. Heat is no issue because you can use one of those ceramic heaters. Air conditioning would be GREAT. The vent/window in the ceiling for a fan. It does have the table that converts to a bed and the bunk beds on the other end.

I kind of like your idea of converting it to a table and keep the table for a permenant bed, but I would like to be able to convert the "new table" into atleast a single bed when I need it. How do you connect things (such as a table or bench/chair) to a fiberglass surface?

You said you would have about 3K in it by the time you were DONE. I am assuming for a very basic/ limited options camper like the one I'm talking about, the value should be less than 3K until the options are put in then?

Do you have any ideas what I should be able to look for as far as BIG problems?

Thanks loads for the info!!!

In my Scamp, part of the area under the front bunk(s) has a raised floor which is surrounded by part of the steel frame. The front curved wall has a 'glassed in', approx 2" wide board arc around the perimeter maybe 10" above the raised floor. There's also a 'glassed in' board across the front wall just below the non-opening front window to which the couch's combo back/upper bunk was hinged. The steel frame & the 2 glassed in boards along with the steel 'U' support at the door, & the cabinet which holds the fridge, stove, sink, should provide sufficient support for the framework of the new seats & dinette. Still haven't decided whether I'll make the area so as to provide an additional single sleeping area . Probably not as I intend to construct a shallow cabinet all the way across the front of the trailer below the new dinette table so I'll have a place to safely store my hunting equipment, out of sight & held securely. Also plan to construct over the new dinette, an overhead cabinet of plywood, similar to the fiberglass one over the rear dinette. Will construct all new cabinet & closet doors to replace the 'blah' doors PO had made.

My Scamp has a small 'window' type AC installed over the curbside wheel well at bottom of the closet (a factory feature of some older Scamps). One of the control knobs is missing & the shaft has been 'chewed' up with pliers so I don't know if it works or not. It's an old Fedders & I'll probably replace it also but those are relatively inexpensive if you can catch 'em on sale at Wal Mart or other discount outlets.

I have a new roof vent/escape hatch to install in place of the piece of stainless. I would like to have installed a Fantastic Fan vent but with the rear overhead cabinet there is simply not enough room behind the roof vent & the original opening is much too large for the FF without doing a lot of 'glass/epoxy/wood' work to rebuild the opening. The new frame for the FF would also decrease headroom with the new framework. I ain't a tall guy but these little trailers already have limited headroom .

Parts for older Scamps are generally available & well supported by the factory parts store. While not cheap, their prices are fair & if you call instead of ordering online, they seem to give ya a break on shipping.

I have a small leak somewhere around the fridge vents that I haven't yet located. I only appears when there is some wind or very heavy rain so I suspect one of the vents is not sealed properly. I'll locate & correct that before doing much more interior work.

The biggest thing I'd look for is the axle. If the torsion arm doesn't flex there ain't nuthin' to do but replace the entire axle. Most (all?) of the older Scamps & Bolers came with a leading arm torsion type axle & no brakes. A new Dexter #9, 2K leading arm axle with 7" electric brakes is around $350-400 shipped to a local dealer so IMO that's a large expense. Most newer propane/elect fridges won't fit the cabinet opening where your icebox is. They're too deep front to back. If you expect to always camp with 'shore' power a small elect fridge might be the thing to have, otherwise plan to rebuild the cabinet area to accommodate a new model fridge. The power converter in most of the older trailers does not provide battery charging. Mine had an old B-W Parallax 3215 converter (that still worked after a fashion) which I replaced with a new WFCO 8725.

As to cost, in my experience (admittedly limited), a 'campable' molded fiber glass trailer with a good axle, clean but spartan interior, clear title, etc., will run $2.5K or more. If ya find one for that price or less I'd jump on it immediately 'cause it won't last long.

[Crazy4Kits]

On the west coast you would be hard pressed to find a 70's beater scamp for 2500. It would be sold within minutes at that price. On Craigslist the Scamp wanted ads Far out number the for sale ones.........just saying.

[Nobody]

On the west coast you would be hard pressed to find a 70's beater scamp for 2500. It would be sold within minutes at that price. On Craigslist the Scamp wanted ads Far out number the for sale ones.........just saying.

You're correct of course. I search the CL ads throughout the midwest USA & occasionally 'scan' other areas. Any of the small molded fiberglass trailers go pretty fast for more $$ than you'd expect. Prices seem a little more moderate in the south, midwest, & even the eastern USA. I'm a member on the fiberglassRV forum & there seem to be more members on the west coast. Any trailer that comes up in their 'for sale' section sells very quickly if the price isn't totally unreasonable (sometimes even those go ). There're also many scams on CL for small trailers so ya gotta be careful. I found mine on CL & had to drive about 150mi to close the deal. The owner was helpful & provided plenty of info/pix. I have a process/procedure I use when considering large or high cost items on CL & if the deal/seller don't meet that criteria I don't go any further than initial contact. I've bought/sold several items on CL successfully but, there are some bad folks out there

[pete42]

Harvey said "I intend to construct a shallow cabinet all the way across the front of the trailer below the new dinette table
so I'll have a place to safely store my hunting equipment, out of sight & held securely."

there was a 13 foot scamp in a nearby town years ago that had been converted to a hunting trailer.
the owner had removed the middle portion of the front bunk and installed a table the table was sitting on a square tube that held his guns.
remove the table top to get to them.

he was not a good builder and trailer looked like a bunch of crap, plus he wanted way to much for it.

I have owned two 16 foot scamps sold my last one when I became disabled and getting thru the small entrance door proved to hard.

pete