using big box store countertops, or laminate my own?

[working on it]

I'm still a month or so from finishing (partially) the exterior enough to turn to the interior ( I have a priority list ). The galley structure, a vertical box 46.25"wide x 48 high, will have a shelf or countertop 20" up. I was at big box store the other day and saw a 48"long premade countertop, similar to the 6' one I put in my house a few years back, and wondered if anyone was using one in their trailer. I could trim 1.75 inches off , and screw and glue it in. My concern is whether I have to use a solid plank for it to rest on, like my kitchen cabinet "box" , or would it be strong enough to span from wall-to-wall with only a 3/4" board vertically centered underneath, and oak rails under sides and back. I don't trust the OSB under the laminate for strength. Or should I just use ply and laminate my own top. I could never duplicate the factory look though, a friend and I tried it and never got it right (twice).

[StPatron]

Yes, those have been used quite often. It's a quick install at the expense of a lotta weight. Support framing needn't be extensive, I would build a frame that supports the perimeter, with one or two mid-span supports for "insurance". That being said, I'm not a fan of heavy OSB especially in an environment that's subject to moisture.

That same framework, with a layer of thin plywood on top, could be covered in laminate. A sheet of in-stock 4 x 8 laminate would provide more than enough to cover not only the counter-top and front edge but also other areas as well. I'd build the counter prior to install, with a 1/4" or so oversized laminate piece. Apply the face edge first, then trim it using a laminate trim bit in router before applying the top.

What problems did you have during your previous laminate work?

[mikeschn]

Do it yourself from scratch. Why? Because I want to learn how to do it!!!

Mike...

[working on it]

First problem with lamination was that the wrong separation strip was pulled out...not by me...and the result was an air bubble that wouldn't go away. We tried drilling from underneath but the glue had already set up. Second try, second problem, was too much adhesive. My friend wanted to avoid a repeat of the air bubble so he put twice the adhesive on to get "more working time"; in the end, the laminate slid out of square with the countertop...had no router, so he tried trimming with a boxcutter. Both countertops ended up as workbenches. Remembering that experience...I may just purchase the finished product after all, seal the underside with poly, and go from there.

[S. Heisley]

First problem with lamination was that the wrong separation strip was pulled out...not by me...and the result was an air bubble that wouldn't go away. We tried drilling from underneath but the glue had already set up. Second try, second problem, was too much adhesive. My friend wanted to avoid a repeat of the air bubble so he put twice the adhesive on to get "more working time"; in the end, the laminate slid out of square with the countertop...had no router, so he tried trimming with a boxcutter. Both countertops ended up as workbenches. Remembering that experience...I may just purchase the finished product after all, seal the underside with poly, and go from there.

After a couple experiences like that, I be tempted to buy a ready-made one, too! The trouble with that is those ready-made coumter tops are deeper than most of our galley spaces; so, you'll probably have to cut a slice off the back portion. Alternatively, you could get a nice piece of plywood and finish it up with several coats of polyurethane or top it with a scrap piece of floor vinyl or tiles or whatever.

[Miriam C.]

You need to let the glue dry to a tacky, almost dry to touch. You can even put more than one layer of glue. Do both sides and then carefully, put the two layers together. Use dowels to keep the two sides separate.

Last ditch effort---take it to a cabinet maker and have them do it.

[fromeo]

I would prefer to make my own, you get an exact fit and it is an easy place to cut a lot of weight compared to prefab particle board tops.

When I did the countertops for my build I posted a bunch of pics that pretty much illustrate the steps to do the job. The laminate work starts on the top of this page here: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=37391&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=45. The woodwork for the tops is on the prior page.

Hope that is of some help. If you have any questions, just ask. There's plenty of folks on here that are very familiar with top making.


- Frank

[S. Heisley]

Thinking about this, maybe two heads aren't always better than one. Why not try laminating when your friend isn't around? You might be able to concentrate better and it only takes one person to laminate. I did mine by myself and it turned out okay. I read up first; then, got some long dowels and a cheap rolling pin and did it on the first try. Incidentally, I used plywood as my base.

Hmmm... Before you toss that one with the bubble in it, try going up from the underside through that hole that you drilled and squirting a bunch polyurethane glue in there....Maybe drill a couple more holes, and squirt glue in them, too. (Use a good sized drill bit and be careful not to drill through the laminate.) After you squirt the glue up into the bubble, roll that spot from the top with your roller, rolling away from the holes, to disperse the glue and then back to the holes, to expel the excess. Next, put a weight(s) on top and leave it that way overnight and see if the 'bubble' is gone in the morning. It might be that you just didn't have enough contact cement on that spot. You've got little to loose in trying this.

If that works, then glue a support board on the underside, over those holes, to help restore strength. (Fill those holes with a sawdust/glue mixture and let that dry before you glue the board on.)

[halfdome, Danny]

[color=blue][i][b]A plywood substrate would be better than a store bought top. Always apply the self edge before the top.

The only way to repair the “Bubble Topâ€

[StPatron]

Always apply the self edge before the top.

Yep. Thx for pointing that out. Don't know what I was thinking..

[halfdome, Danny]

I forgot to mention... If possible stand the top on edge and let the lacquer thinner eat at the glue with the help of gravity. It's easier than trying to do it laying flat on a bench.
We all have made our share of mistakes so I'm quite familiar with removing plam. Danny

[bdosborn]

I ordered laminate and made our counter and table tops. The main reason was that the pre-made stuff at the home store was about as ugly as could be and really heavy. Its not that hard to do but absolutely unforgiving if you get it wrong. The good news is a 4x8' sheet is the minimum laminate order so you'll have plenty to play with and get your installation figured out.



Bruce

[Woodbutcher]

Dannys advise is spot on. If you are not able to use the lacquer thinner method you can also use an old household iron. Turn it on high and start on one corner. Slowly pry up the laminate as the heat releases the P-lam It will destroy the laminate and the iron will not be good for clothes any more , but who irons clothes anymore anyway. Good luck.

[S. Heisley]

Danny's way sounds like the best way and, that way, you won't have to buy more laminate. It should work regardless of whether the bubble is from lack of cement or an air bubble. What bdosborn said about the weight is also true.

Not only do you have nothing to loose in trying it,; but also, you may save your counter-top yet!

[pmowers]

Has anyone tried this, I am thinking about doing it for laminating my counter tops- you can get a nice even 1500+ pounds/sq. ft. pressure. Here is a link to a setup that uses a shop vac, and you do not really have a size limit.
http://www.instructables.com/id/10-HP-Hovercraft/step3/VACUMN-BAGGING/ so that it might be a useful trick for those doing large laminations or lay-ups.
You all may want to check out the instructables site. (http://www.instructables.com). These guys are almost as creative as the denizens of T&TTT