Door Knobs, etc.

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Door Knobs, etc.

Postby sunny16 » Fri Mar 10, 2006 12:37 pm

Has anyone used a regular lockable exterior door knob on their TD trailer doors? If so, what thickness of door do you have and how did you mount it with aluminum trim? Any pictures would help. I'm having a tough time deciding what and how to do the door lock part of the project. :cry:
I cut it three times and it's still too short!!
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Postby Ira » Fri Mar 10, 2006 12:49 pm

You're aggravated already?

I took a totally different approach with mine because I wasn't concerned about security. Anyone who wants to rip a door open on TD can easily do it. And heck, they'll just steal the whole TD ANYWAY.

I used sliding dead blots on the interior, and sliding bolts on the exterior to be used with locks when i'm way from the TD.

A great solution? No, but easy.
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Postby sunny16 » Fri Mar 10, 2006 12:57 pm

Thanks for a new idea, Ira.
Not aggravatited. Just trying to work out some of the problems before they happen. I know, there will always be questions, problems, other ways to do it. But your idea was one I never considered. Not a bad idea, though.
I cut it three times and it's still too short!!
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Postby 48Rob » Fri Mar 10, 2006 1:00 pm

I used sliding dead blots on the interior, and sliding bolts on the exterior to be used with locks when i'm way from the TD.



Ira,

Be sure to mount the interior sliding deadbolt at a downward angle so that vibration from road travel doesn't "lock" the door from the inside... :oops:

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Postby Chris C » Fri Mar 10, 2006 1:01 pm

Sunny16, take a look at Michael Westhoff's trailer.
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Postby 48Rob » Fri Mar 10, 2006 1:06 pm

Sunny,

The easiest way is to build the door, then use whatever type lock/latch that fits.
This thought goes well with solid plywood doors, if you'll be framing, and doing sandwich construction, pre planning is needed to have sufficient blocking in the door lock area.

A "T" or "L" handle on the outside, with a cab lock on the inside, is the easiest system.
Build and install the door, then place the cab lock from the inside.
Mark for the handle hole, and install.

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Postby Ken A Hood » Fri Mar 10, 2006 1:14 pm

I bought a set from Grant, the standard handles and lock. But then I found a set LIKE THIS (But they are lockable from the inside/outside)
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Postby Ira » Fri Mar 10, 2006 2:26 pm

48Rob wrote: Be sure to mount the interior sliding deadbolt at a downward angle so that vibration from road travel doesn't "lock" the door from the inside... :oops:

Rob



Ahhhh--thanks for watching out for me, Rob.

BUT...

All I have to do is open the window from the outside, stick my arm in, and slide the deadbolt.

It's amazing how someone who grew up in Brooklyn like me is so unconcerned about locks on this thing.
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Postby mbader » Fri Mar 10, 2006 2:38 pm

I used a standard household exterior lock set.
I used a Kwikset brand, Commonwealth style.
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My doors are 1/2" plywood outside, 1" framing, and 1/8" plywood inside for a total of 1 3/8" which is just the thinckness of an interior household door. The Kwikset lockset fit it perfectly.
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That's the best picture I have right now but if you want more I can take some tomorrow.
I ended up making a custom striker plate that you might want to see a picture of.
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Postby Mitheral » Fri Mar 10, 2006 2:56 pm

Ira wrote:Y
I used sliding dead blots on the interior, and sliding bolts on the exterior to be used with locks when i'm way from the TD.


If you go this route make sure to secure the bolts in the open position when sleeping less some trickster lock you in one night. Even if you can reach thru a window and open the bolt I wouldn't want to be messing with that in the middle of the night when nature calls.
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Postby sunny16 » Fri Mar 10, 2006 3:09 pm

mbader,

That's what I wanted to see. I would like to use a standard door knob, in fact at lunch I went and bought a door lock installation kit for drilling the holes. It should work good. I may need to add a piece of wood at the door knob to get the thickness right but it should work for what I want it look like. So thanks for the pics and info.

And as a side note, maybe Ira wants to get locked in/out. Who knows?
I cut it three times and it's still too short!!
Perfection is all I ask.......
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Postby Ira » Fri Mar 10, 2006 3:19 pm

Mitheral wrote:
Ira wrote:Y
I used sliding dead blots on the interior, and sliding bolts on the exterior to be used with locks when i'm way from the TD.


If you go this route make sure to secure the bolts in the open position when sleeping less some trickster lock you in one night. Even if you can reach thru a window and open the bolt I wouldn't want to be messing with that in the middle of the night when nature calls.


Yeah, I thought of that.

It's just that I had to weigh my building skills against the risk of that ever happening. The thought of getting those doors aligned terrified me, but the thought off installing conventional knobs with all that's involved threw me over the edge.
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Postby cracker39 » Sat Mar 11, 2006 5:50 pm

sunny16 wrote:Just trying to work out some of the problems before they happen.


If you find a way to do that, PLEASE let the rest of us in on it... :lol:

Today, I made several changes that will mean taking out something I already glued in and going in a different direction. That's the nature of building from your own design...designs change.
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Postby Mitheral » Sat Mar 11, 2006 7:03 pm

Ira wrote:Yeah, I thought of that.

It's just that I had to weigh my building skills against the risk of that ever happening. The thought of getting those doors aligned terrified me, but the thought off installing conventional knobs with all that's involved threw me over the edge.


Most lockable bolts can be locked open. Just close the padlock thru a loop when the bolt is slid open.
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Postby Boodro » Sun Mar 12, 2006 12:45 am

Hey Sunny, if ya wanna be different , try mounting the doorknob in the wall of the trailer & installing the latch in the door. Usualy the walls are thicker than the doors, maybe it could help ?
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