Another one for IRG 4.0 Light up!

[cuyeda]

Coleman Model 202, 1-55

I picked this up today, and was unexpected when I was buying used globes. This one is in for the count because it fired up nicely. I try to take pictures of the gear as found. I'll clean it up a bit. Does anyone know what the tank is made of? Nickel plate? Steel?

[rainjer]

That would be a Coleman 202. Nickle fount & stainless steel collar & frame. Very desirable lantern. The valve is the same as a 200A.

Jeremy

[cuyeda]

@Jeremy
Thanks for the description. It cleaned up very nice!





This model had a nice ceramic screen for the mantle.

[doug hodder]

That's an absolutely gorgeous find Cliff!!!! It's a great sense of satisfaction when you take something that really looks like a piece of junk and through some elbow work and a little time, turn it into a wonderful piece of working history. Good job! Doug

[Woodbutcher]

WOW! That is a beauty, nice job on the restoration.

[cuyeda]

Thanks Doug!

I have a few question for anyone that has painted the founts before. I painted a couple and assembled the lantern, and waiting to get new logos for it. I have a couple that are in the painting phases, but thinking I need to get the new logos before I lay on the final coat of clear. Then reassemble it.

1. Do you use a clear coat?
2. Do you wet sand before the final clear coat is applied?
3. Do you you use a baking process between coats, or after all coats have been applied?

I have read various answers on another forum. Just curious what consensus of opinions people have here.

[Kevin & Sandy]

Cleaned up nice? That is an understatement, it looks great !!!!!

Nice job.

[campmaster-k]

Cliff - WARNING - That model is very dangerous. It involves pressurized gasoline and can turn into a fireball. Those ceramic burners can break and throw flames everywhere. You are in danger. Take the lantern outside and put it far away from your house, out on the curb next to the street would be perfect. I know it could get stolen out there but its your safety we are talking about here. Now just give me your address and I will call the fire dept so they can take it away safely.

[cuyeda]

Kirk,

I did what you said, but as soon as I left it, the metal salvage guy drove up and took it. Now what do I do?

[campmaster-k]

Kirk,

I did what you said, but as soon as I left it, the metal salvage guy drove up and took it. Now what do I do?

DANG IT!

A truly great lantern great score Cliff.

[doug hodder]

1. Do you use a clear coat?
2. Do you wet sand before the final clear coat is applied?
3. Do you you use a baking process between coats, or after all coats have been applied?

I don't clear coat, but if I were to, I'd get the rattle can stuff from the auto paint store, or I'd mix up a cup and spray it. It's tougher than the typical Krylon/ Rustoleum stuff. You can clear over a decal or sticker if you want.

If you let the paint cure completely, it needs to be at least scuffed prior to clear coating. If the paint went down great...you can get by with a scotch brite scuff on it, wet sand with fine paper if you have dust issues. If you plan on clear coating prior to complete cure on the paint, make sure your clear is compatible with the color coat.

I don't bake, but will at least keep up a good temp on it till it cures. I will set it close to the wood stove in the garage. I've got a lot of stuff that never has been baked or heated....holds up and looks great.

This is just what I do, there's lots of ways to do it others opinions may vary. Doug