Need photos of aluminum skinning details...

[mikeschn]

Skinning a teardrop in aluminum...

Hey guys, especially you aluminum builders... Show us how you skin your aluminum teardrops... I'm especially interested in seeing your details. Photos of your door joints, your hatch joint, the connection between the sidewall and the roof.

We need lots of pics in this thread!!!

Mike...

[asianflava]

I have some I'll have to get them uploaded.

[halfdome, Danny]

Mike, thinking of going all aluminum?
Here's a few photos.
The first one shows the front of the teardrop where I put a piece to be lap seamed with the roof since the profile I use is about 12' from galley hinge to the front at the chassis.
I use VHB tape and the tongue box covers most of the seam.
The aluminum is contact cemented on.

In this photo I show the 7/8" wide aluminum counter top edging I use on my 7/8" walls.
It has a 90 deg bend on one edge.
Works like a champ and looks good too.

Since the profile is over 48" tall I do a lap joint on the side walls too.
I contact cement the aluminum on and haven't had any expansion/contraction (myth???) problems doing it this way.
The 48" sheet sits right at the bottom of the door opening for a smaller lap seam footprint.
Note the two boxed supports for a one man installation of the 48" sheet.

Here I'm clamping the door "T" molding while the sealant cures.
Note the different aluminum on the front (anodized on top, mill finish on bottom) where the tongue box will cover.

Clamping the VHB tape seams for 36+ hours. The roof goes on over the walls and gets bearing routed off.

Completed tongue box and front.

Danny

[droid_ca]

Mike good question,
Can this be trimmed down with a router bit or do you have to have it exact before you glue it,as I'm thinking this might be good for my sleeper idea
(temporary thread jack) I priced out sleepers from this place in the states and starting price was 1800 bucks then I'd still have to modify it for what I want and shipping was a fortune....ok back to Mikes thread

[asianflava]

Looks like Danny has it covered. My pics look pretty much the same.

[halfdome, Danny]

Mike good question,
Can this be trimmed down with a router bit or do you have to have it exact before you glue it,as I'm thinking this might be good for my sleeper idea
(temporary thread jack) I priced out sleepers from this place in the states and starting price was 1800 bucks then I'd still have to modify it for what I want and shipping was a fortune....ok back to Mikes thread

Yes it can be trimmed with a router bit if doesn't overhang more than 1/2".
I leave about 1/4" for trimming, much easier on you and the bit.
Make sure you wear a face shield as hot aluminum will come at you, I guarantee it.
Use pneumatic, electric or hand shears to trim to rough size.
Square cuts can be done on the table saw with proper safety precautions to insure the aluminum doesn't creep under the fence or pop while cutting.
I use a special 80 tooth carbide saw blade made just for non Ferris metals.
I found trimming with a 1/2" flush trim bottom bearing bit that it's too fast and will melt the aluminum.
A Freud 42-118, 3/4" flush trim bottom bearing bit slows it down and it cuts like butter .
It has a 1/2" shank so you'll need a 1/2" Colette if your router doesn't have one.
Danny

[droid_ca]

Thanks Danny your a true craftsman and an infinite wealth of knowledge

[eamarquardt]

I found trimming with a 1/2" flush trim bottom bearing bit that it's too fast and will melt the aluminum.
A Freud 42-118, 3/4" flush trim bottom bearing bit slows it down and it cuts like butter .
It has a 1/2" shank so you'll need a 1/2" Colette if your router doesn't have one.
Danny

I'm confused (which isn't a new thing). A 3/4" bit will have a higher speed at the cutting edge than a 1/2" diameter bit. Do you slow down the router with the 3/4" bit.

Thanks,

Gus

[mikeschn]

Danny,

That 7/8's inch molding looks wonderful. Very classy!

Is that the standard way of doing aluminum, or are there other methods?

Mike...

[halfdome, Danny]

I found trimming with a 1/2" flush trim bottom bearing bit that it's too fast and will melt the aluminum.
A Freud 42-118, 3/4" flush trim bottom bearing bit slows it down and it cuts like butter .
It has a 1/2" shank so you'll need a 1/2" Colette if your router doesn't have one.
Danny

I'm confused (which isn't a new thing). A 3/4" bit will have a higher speed at the cutting edge than a 1/2" diameter bit. Do you slow down the router with the 3/4" bit.

Thanks,

Gus

Ever noticed they stagger runners on a track? The inside guy is back behind the outside guy since the track is longer on the outside vs the shorter inside.
If you put larger wheels and tires on a car your speedometer will say your going slower since it's based on revolutions of the stock tire.
A larger router bit has a greater circumference; therefore in one revolution it will travel a farther distance which is slower at each cutting edge.
Danny

[halfdome, Danny]

Danny,

That 7/8's inch molding looks wonderful. Very classy!

Is that the standard way of doing aluminum, or are there other methods?

Mike...

Mike, Pretty much the standard way with some sort of aluminum door opening trim.
I know of one builder who paints a really thick coat of rustoleum on the plywood edge, but I wouldn't recommend it.
I put some black Fast Cap, Fast Edge PVC Banding down before the aluminum trim.
I use a roller to make it stick nice and tight.
It comes in a aluminum finish too. Danny

[mikeschn]

Danny,

Do you have a closeup of your edge molding that goes between the wall and the roof?

Also, do you have a close up of your molding where you hide the horizontal wall seam?

Thanks,

Mike...

[halfdome, Danny]

Danny,

Do you have a closeup of your edge molding that goes between the wall and the roof?

Also, do you have a close up of your molding where you hide the horizontal wall seam?

Thanks,

Mike...

Mike, Here's a photo from Grant Whipp's site. The RV (insert) wall/roof corner molding is second from the left. The door "T" molding is on the far right.
I like this molding since it looks best with the black or white PVC insert molding and the raised part that squishes down to make sort of a barrier for water.
It needs a heavy bead of sealant or continuous Butyl tape.



Here's a drawing of the RV Insert molding from Interstate RV Metal & Supply formally known as Interstate Metals.

My horizontal wall seam is a lap seam of 2"-4" depending on how much yield a sheet of aluminum gives me.
I put two courses of 1" wide VHB tape at the overlap. The larger sheet overlaps the small piece like roof shingles.
No molding is necessary at that lap seam.
Danny

[droid_ca]

Is that molding pliable as I have an idea where there are a few curves do you just anneal it with a torch and it gets work hardened as you bend it...am I on the right track?

[halfdome, Danny]

Is that molding pliable as I have an idea where there are a few curves do you just anneal it with a torch and it gets work hardened as you bend it...am I on the right track?

I anneal it with Map gas (hotter than propane) at all radius's.
You'll need to massage it to conform to your profile with your hands and a small rubber or leather mallet.
I have to relieve or it will crinkle at my roll pans which are a 5 or 6" radius.
I use the 5" wheel on the edge sander and it could also be done with a belt sander mounted in a bench vise.
You can clean up any scratches etc on the RV molding with 0000 steel wool.
Danny