Where to splice a sidewall?

[les45]

I've about given up on finding 4X10 plywood for my sidewalls and am considering splicing two or more panels to get the 10' length I need. My build is a modified Weekender with simple 3/4" walls uninsulated (see pic). Exterior walls and top will get epoxy coatings and marine paint so any exterior splices will have to be finished smooth.

I'm looking at two options:

1. Glue two 3/8" panels together. This would involve a 2' section spliced on alternate sides (use five sheets to make two panels). This will result in a fairly long vertical seam (probably positioned near the rear) to be finished smooth on the outside wall. Not sure if biscuits will work that well on 3/8 plywood. Seams would be reinforced with countersunk screws down both sides.

2. Splice two 3/4" panels at the vertical centerline of the manufactured door using biscuit joinery. After cutouts for the doors, this would leave two 6" seams to be stiffened by the floor and roof framing and the two piece metal door frame.

Anyone have similar experience, suggestions, or other options?

[bobhenry]

Chubby is 5'4 tall by 10'+ in length and I was fully aware it would require splices.

You can see in this picture 3 seperate panels of 5/8 osb as a sub siding. I purposly made them break where I knew there would be reinforcment. The rear splice is screwed and glued to the gally wall and the front break is right at the door seam. When I veneer covered the subsiding I alternated the splices to help cover the joints.

[Woodbutcher]

I would go through the middle of the door. Should allow you to get both sides out of 3 sheets. Plus the seams will be very short. Good luck with your build. If you tell us where you live someone may be able to help with 10' sides.

[les45]

I would go through the middle of the door. Should allow you to get both sides out of 3 sheets. Plus the seams will be very short. Good luck with your build. If you tell us where you live someone may be able to help with 10' sides.

I'm leaning toward that option since it involves the shortest seams. I am in South Carolina and I have gone out to plywood specialty dealers as far as Atlanta and Charlotte. They all tell me that there is no 10' plywood anywhere near the East Coast.

[Forrest747]

I put mine at teh rear. while it is a longer seam i feel it would be stronger than a short seam. i glued and screwed 3/4 inch backing plate and it also had the loft and bulkhead as support. i think it turned out ok so far.

[CarlLaFong]

I would use a lap joint or a spline. Both are pretty easy if you have a router. The lap will give you more surface area for glue. Try to plan your joint so it falls at a bulkhead or some other inner bracing so that if there is any movement, the joint won't open up and show through the finish

[David S]

I spliced mine at the front edge of the doors you can see it in this pic if you look in my build journal you will see most of the joint got covered by trim
joints were biscut jointed and pocket screwed inside

[Festus]

I spliced mine in the front of the trailer. I was going to have a cabinet in the front, plus I used 3/4" furring strips over the plywood so I could put in styrofoam insulation. I just made sure one of the furring strips was behind the joint. I used a 3/8" rabbeting bit in the router and made a lap joint in the plywood.

I glued it well and then put a scrap 1x3 underneath and another on top and screwed the whole thing together until it dried. (It's hard to put a clamp in the middle of a 4' piece of plywood.) I then unscrewed the 1x3's and cut out the sidewalls. You can do a bigger lap joint than what I did, but I didn't have any problem with it even before I added the furring strip behind it. (After if was already cut and mounted to the floor.)

[Oldragbaggers]

This is what I originally posted:
"I used about a 3/4" lap joint, joined with thickened epoxy, and put it in rear. Most of the joint at the bottom is fastened to the 2x4 that runs along my trailer siderail, and the area at the top, which is only about 6", will have a roof spar attached to it."

But when I dragged the teardrop out into the light of day this weekend after several months of not looking at it, this is what I actually discovered to be true.....
My lap joint is more like 2" wide. And the joint is in the rear through the galley area, not through the door. I was astounded that I didn't remember what I had done. I think that was what I had originally planned to do but changed my mind for whatever reason.

Getting old is scary.

I just figured out today that this turned out to not be a great thing because of the splice in the skin falling in an area that wasn't completely solid. I filled the seam good with thickened epoxy when I bonded the skin to the frame. Hopefully by the time I cover the outside with fiberglass cloth and bond the foam to it on the inside, it will have enough structural integrity not to crack.

[Jerry & Molly]

I ended up going the 3/8 plywood route (with huge amouts of titebond 11). I ended up with a 5x11 piece of 3/4 inch sheet. It's kind a funny how my original design started out as a 4x8x5 and it kinda grew . I don't know how or why but it just grew by itself. The plywood was mostly seconds ie busted corners, big fork lift gouges and so on, but it was abx and CHEAP!!!! So I probably ended up with more splices than normal. (I'd love to post some pictures but my camera died. So it's either buy camera or wood.)

[LWW]

I built a modified weekender also and if you follow the plans Mike did the joint will end up in the door area. I used 1/2" ply with a 2 x 2 frame around the edges. It works out to where the joint is in an area where you don't even notice it. I also used a lap joint and thickened epoxy to glue it together. Larry

[Pizzaguy]

I split mine horizontally. Used 1/4" Birch & Cherry butted together then fiberglass & epoxy.





It also worked out that I was able to use the other halves on the inside.

[mallymal]

I spliced mine at the front edge of the doors you can see it in this pic if you look in my build journal you will see most of the joint got covered by trim
joints were biscut jointed and pocket screwed inside

I dont care where you spliced it! That is one BEAUTIFUL profile!!!!

[mikeschn]

I spliced mine at the front edge of the doors you can see it in this pic if you look in my build journal you will see most of the joint got covered by trim
joints were biscut jointed and pocket screwed inside

I dont care where you spliced it! That is one BEAUTIFUL profile!!!!

I agree, that's a nice profile. It appears to be a modified modernistic profile, or a cross between a stretched cubby and a fat rear end comet. Good job on the design David!!!

Mike...