Kampkook what is it worth? Now resto thread.

[Aaron Coffee]

Found this and am kind of intrigued, just wondering what a fair price would be?
http://siouxcity.craigslist.org/atq/2847763240.html

[Woodbutcher]

I have seen them for 25-50.00 asking price. I picked one up at a garage sale for 10 bucks but I know that was way cheap.

[Aaron Coffee]

Thanks, wanted some kind of idea before I called.
Aaron

[Joamon]

I have never seen one in my neck of the woods. I would love to find one. If I saw one of those I would be all over it. $25.00 to $50.00 sounds like a good price to me.
Let us know.

Keith

[doug hodder]

If'n it were me....I'd get it...it's best offer! Cast iron grate...all there, straight with paper work...OH yeah! give him a call and "feel him out" on it. Condition is everything, and this has paperwork with it, I'm assuming it's complete. What's nice is the built in pump. I've got a 4 and it's got the external pump...a hassle on this stove. At 50$...you'd be OK...you could turn it on E-bay and do better, I'd bet...but of course...try to get it as inexpensively as you can. Doug

[Aaron Coffee]

I called made him an offer(darn he jumped to fast)bought it. Some surface rust but not too bad. The guy clean out houses to be demolished and found this, had the pump(external pump) but he thought it was just an old grease gun, so he didn't keep it. So how difficult will it be to find a pump, and where? or is there something else I can make work. Will post pics as soon as I can.
Here are the pics



even included the wrench



tinkered with it was going to spray down the legs, because where swivel looks rusty and couldn't find any wd-40, doh.
Anyone (Doug?)have any resources for AGMs?

[doug hodder]

Hey...if you decide you don't want it or want to mess with it and would like it to go to a very good home...let me know, I'll pamper it and am more than willing to pay.

You should be OK on any of the parts on it I'd bet, just take your time with it and don't get carried away. Any parts you may need like a generator fuel pick up in the tank etc... are tough to come by. It'll take another parts stove. Many times, I don't even remove the generator from the brass T. You can pick up an external pump on E-bay...that's not a big deal. To take it apart, there are 2 L shaped tabs under the back edge. You may need to tap them out with a plastic faced mallet, but once removed, the grate and the top lid and wings will come off. A much better deal than what Coleman cooked up to attach theirs. It's a very nice stove....I've got stove envy... Doug

[Aaron Coffee]

Dang Doug,
Your so smart that you answered one question(how it comes apart)before I even asked it. Shaking the tank there is stuff rattling around in it, what comes out is small black flakes, how do I clean out the tank, since the ends are concave, I am leary of doing the bb treatment as I don't know if I would be able to shake all of the bb's out. Should I try to take the brass T off (to clean out the fuel pickup)of the tank or leave it?
Thanks
Aaron

[doug hodder]

You can do the BB treatment on the tank, but get a magnet on a stick to pull them out. That fuel opening is really small and given the shape of the tank ends, they won't want to come out easily. I've got a rare earth magnet, epoxied to the end of a small wooden dowel to fish them out of tanks. I'd do the BB thing till it dumps clean. I always run the fluid (old Coleman fuel or paint thinner depends on what I've got sitting around) that I put in with the BB's through a paper towel filter. That way I can sort of get an idea on just how clean it's getting.

On that tank, you want to get the BB's to one end and do a swirl type motion to clean the outer rim well on both the top and bottom. I would clean it before I fueled it and tried to operate it. You could suck up some crud into the whole system. Chances are....all that scale in the tank dumped over the years of non use, so the rest of it might not have any crud in it.

I would leave the fuel pick up stuff alone. I can't do anything to mine as it's brazed on the end of the tank. On many stoves, there is a super small micro screen on the end of the pickup and it would have kept any of the larger chunks of material from getting up in the system. Doug

[prohandyman]

I may have a pump in a box somewhere. I have 2 Kampkooks (never lit by me) and I believe I had an extra pump. Let me check. The box is probably in hiding. I am doing a vintage rally in a couple of months that usually has a swap meet, so I will be digging the boxes out anyway. FYI...if you guys have any items that you want on a list to look out for send me a pm. I see crazy stuff every year at these rallies.

[Aaron Coffee]

Thanks Dan, Just let me know what you want and shipping.
Got the manifold out, I must have been really lucky, or the pb blaster did the trick, I was afraid of breaking the screws, I shot them with oil and let it sit overnight and then found the best fitting screwdrivers I could and just applied gentle pressure, also got the burner pieces off, the same way. The secondary burner valve was stuck so I sprayed it with oil, then let it sit overnight and the plug and valve came out, (hope I didn't mess up taking the plug out of the end of the mainfold)then was able to free up the valve, I also ran a rifle brush through the manifold, didn't find any signs of creepy crawlies. And did the bb thing on the tank, will do another round or two with bb's tonight. What should I use to clean up the burner parts?
A few questions concerning paint, what is a good match for the case? And what is the best way to remove the original paint? Am thinking about painting the manifold and grate with high heat (Eastwood has 1500degree)cast iron paint, and was wondering if it would work to cure it in our powder coat oven at work(400 degrees) my biggest fear is that the heat would do bad things to the cast iron.
Thanks
Aaron

Anyone know an aproximate age for the #7? I think the last patent date is 1924.

[doug hodder]

Regular VHT paint from the hardware store will work on the manifold. Powdercoat is right at the upper limits of it's temp range...and they weren't done in a powdercoat to begin with. I don't think they were even painted originally. For a total restoration, I strip it with Jasco, hit it with the pressure washer, then sand the rest. I strip all the paint off. Before you do that, If you don't have the ability to mix and spray your own paint, I'd get a rattle can matched at an automotive paint store. Chances are, you won't find a really good match in an off the shelf rattle can.

As far as the age on it...I don't have the official book with all the dates, but I'd put it between 1925 and '30. If I'm spending some time in the Coleman archives, I'll do some digging to see if I can get it closer. Doug

[Aaron Coffee]

Here is a scan of the insrtuction manual.


Where do I find my local KAMPKOOK dealer so I can buy a valve and generator for $1.25.
I was just wondering about curing the high temp paint in the powdercoat oven, I've never had very good luck with high temp paint, seems like it flaked off quickly, I always thought that maybe I din't cure it soon enough, but it could have been poor preparation.

Thanks again.
Aaron

[doug hodder]

Look for a copyright date on your instruction manual. Could I bug you into making a copy of that manual for me? Clean all the crud off your parts, and use something like a lacquer thinner to wipe them prior to the paint. The Rustoleum goes on great, and I've had no problems with it flaking. Doug

[Aaron Coffee]

Absolutely! PM me your address and I will get a copy to you. The envolope for the instruction manual and original isnpection tag were also included, I will also include copies of these.
thanks
Aaron