I think it's time to revisit the weekender.

[mikeschn]

Since we are now mixing the Weekender I and the Weekender II design in the same thread, I just wanted to make sure you guys were okay with that, or if I should start a Weekender II thread?

Mike...

[KCStudly]

You're the boss. We'll play along and follow your lead.

[mikeschn]

Well, as you guys don't get too confused, I guess we'll just keep plodding right along!

Mike...

[mikeschn]

@Sharon,

Here's a possible position for the rear bulkhead...



@Kludge,

Got the back piece down to a piece of pine, 1 x 10. What do you think?

Mike...

[mikeschn]

The back piece is now the correct thickness too!

Mike...

[Ptomaine]

Those lines look very familiar to me.

[Kharn]

Mike,
if you were stopping the rear at the end of the trailer frame to simplify the hatch, how would you handle the galley? Is a 16" deep counter enough, or would you move the upper half of the bulkhead farther into the cabin (maybe 6", so it would be a standard 24" counter depth?), with the drawer/storage area underneath still 16" deep to not remove from the bed?

[GPW]

Mike , my 2 cents... Here’s my “take” on the Weekender... the WeekHopper..

More aerodynamic, built in overhang to keep the water away ... less Drag on the highway ... “theoretically “

[KCStudly]

Ooh, ooh, ooh, taper those aero skirts in a bit more so that they function a little better (flush with the top and sides and they are just extending the length w/o providing any interior space) and you'd really have a nice profile concept...

...but not exactly in keeping with the simple entry level Weekender concept. I like the profile a bunch, tho.

[kludge]

Do you worry about the saw kerf on the 24" widths, or just fill it with bondo?

[grant whipp]

Question:
if you are trying to keep this design as simple & quick to build as possible, why slope that roof top? Just leave it flat & parallel with the bottom ... much less fuss, and really, no aero advantages/dis-advantages ... it you are worried about water "pooling" on the flat roof, just crank the tongue-jack up or down a little to make the water run off (it doesn't take much!). K.I.S.S. ... ...

CHEERS!

[Kharn]

Grant,
Hmm, interesting idea.
A 2 degree slope is 1" rise in 28", so an 80" bed would be about 3" higher at the head than the feet. Not sure if a person would notice that or not, but when tenting I've always been taught to sleep with my head uphill if I can't find flat ground. For a standard-depth galley, it would be about an inch difference between the counter at the bulkhead and the lip, not enough for a glass to slide or spill, but it could be a nuisance for cucumbers or carrots.

[KCStudly]

I have an acid reflux condition and have been advised by my Dr. to put blocks under the head of my bed, so I have 3-1/2 inch blocks permanently under the head of my bed.

I fully intend to keep the tongue high when 'leveling' my camper. Had even thought about pitching the galley to compensate for this, but decided it wasn't worth the trouble. The carrots can rest on a dish towel until they are cut up.

[Kharn]

Another thought on aerodynamic improvement, instead of making the pointy nose out of wood (thus limiting how far you can go without stretching your plywood, and also limiting the internal volume), why not make it out of foam?

I'm not the best artist in the world, so I wont torture you with my MSPaint skills, but I wonder how the following would work:
Using the standard weekender design, cut a piece of 3/4" plywood (or use scraps pieced together to make a rectangular frame the same size if weight is critical) to match the front face and install draw latches on it and the weekender body (at least two on the top & bottom, with maybe one additional on each side, with the stationary side of each latch on the camper to keep the appearance clean). I would use at least two index pins projecting from the trailer into holes in the new plywood piece (3/8" or 1/2" dowel? only has to stick out 1") to make sure you have it seated properly and the draw latches do not pull it out of position (maybe some sort of hangers so it wouldn't fall off if unlatched and you could attach/detach it solo?). Then use industrial adhesive to attach foam panels to the plywood and each other, using a hot knife to carve them to the proper shape, finish as a standard foamy and paint to match the theme of the trailer. The number of foam layers would affect the top/bottom angles you could use, along with angling the sides in a bit if the trailer is wider than your car.

Once you arrive at the camp site, you can remove the nose and stow it under the trailer or in the car if your air conditioner pops out the front or if the nose prohibits proper access to your tongue box. If your tongue is short and you need to back up into a tight spot you can remove the nose while parking (just make sure you don't back over it )