Galley Lid

[Javanino]

Enjoying all the great info here. I'm new to the forum and about to start my first build. In spite of reading many of the Q&A's here and finding many older dead links, I still have a few questions.

1. Should the profile be cut slightly smaller where the lid meets the profile? It seems if one uses the good weatherstripping, the profile might need to be cut down to accommodate the thickness of the weatherstripping.

2. Another option I've seen in photos is a curved 2" board or so matching the profile set inside the galley and the weatherstripping attached to that instead. This would allow that board to be dropped down some to accommodate the thickness of the rubber.

I don't want to complicate my build but water has always amazed me in it's ability to creep inside things. Thanks in advance.

[DMcCam]

I'd highly recommend Steve Frederick's show manual for building your Teardrop. It's been an unbelievable asset on my build. His methods for constructing the hatch seal is one of the best I've seen.
Here's a link: http://www.campingclassics.com/

Have fun,

Dave

[halfdome, Danny]

I use a rabbet bit to cut the profile down to accommodate the weather strip after the roof plywood is on.
They sell rabbet bit kits with different sized bearings for different rabbet sizes.

From the outside I route only half way in and then finish it up with a straight flush trim bit with a top bearing riding on the previous cut.

Nice and easy and it keeps your profile to weather strip tolerances perfect.

I use Grant Whipp's seals/weather strip, their the best in my opinion. Danny

[Javanino]

I use a rabbet bit to cut the profile down to accommodate the weather strip after the roof plywood is on.
They sell rabbet bit kits with different sized bearings for different rabbet sizes.

From the outside I route only half way in and then finish it up with a straight flush trim bit with a top bearing riding on the previous cut.
Nice and easy and it keeps your profile to weather strip tolerances perfect.

I think I'm with you. If you put a rabbet on the outside of the profile plywood and attach the weatherstrip to that and leave the inside part of the profile high, it would make it nearly impossible for water to run into the galley. Great idea!

Next problem is the hinge. I really don't like the idea of a hurricane hinge sticking out an inch on each side. Looks like something to remove a little flesh when you least expect it. Not to mention it's ugly. There's got to be a better way. Maybe this rabbet method would make the 1 inch hangover unnecessary.

[halfdome, Danny]

I use a rabbet bit to cut the profile down to accommodate the weather strip after the roof plywood is on.
They sell rabbet bit kits with different sized bearings for different rabbet sizes.

From the outside I route only half way in and then finish it up with a straight flush trim bit with a top bearing riding on the previous cut.
Nice and easy and it keeps your profile to weather strip tolerances perfect.

I think I'm with you. If you put a rabbet on the outside of the profile plywood and attach the weatherstrip to that and leave the inside part of the profile high, it would make it nearly impossible for water to run into the galley. Great idea!

Next problem is the hinge. I really don't like the idea of a hurricane hinge sticking out an inch on each side. Looks like something to remove a little flesh when you least expect it. Not to mention it's ugly. There's got to be a better way. Maybe this rabbet method would make the 1 inch hangover unnecessary.

I think you misunderstood my post.
I make a 3/4" thick wall at the galley and the method I mentioned before removes the whole 3/4" because the weather strip I suggested is wide enough if you cap the plywood edge.

Just round off the 1" overhang on the hurricane hinge to save your hide. Not having the 1" overhang runs the risk of water dribbling into your open galley and ruining your wood and flooding your floor.
Danny

[Javanino]

I guess I did misunderstand but it gave me an idea. It's hard to do this without illustrations but work with me here. What if we cut a 1/2" corner out of the outside part of the profile where the galley rests. In this area we put the weatherstrip you suggested. That way any water that runs outside the hinge and is not caught by the weatherstrip will be caught by the 1/2 corner and runs to the outside before it has a chance to run in the galley. Granted that corner will have to be seriously weatherproofed but with some marine grade ply, I bet it would outlive us.

[halfdome, Danny]

It's your project I can only suggest.
Here's how the 1" overhang works.
Danny

[Javanino]

It's your project I can only suggest.
Here's how the 1" overhang works.
Danny

I appreciate the input, I'm really just thinking out loud here. I still think the corner being cut out with the router would make the overhang unnecessary. I might just do a little experiment and see how it works out before the actual build.

[DMcCam]

Danny's solution is on of the best I've seen on the board to use. Water will seek the easiest path so giving it an obvious direction makes sense.
I'm looking forward to what you come up with!

Cheers,

Dave

[grant whipp]

Lots of folks have differing ideas, but in my experience, a 1" overhang of the Galley Lid Hinge is unnecessary ... I only recommend 3/8" on each side, just enough to guide the water off the top and away from the Roof Edge Moldings and the hinge gap (I also sometimes run a piece of Door Seal between the hinge pieces, sealing that gap ... not totally necessary, but it really helps on dusty roads!). However you choose to go about it, Good Luck!

And, oh, BTW ... I recommend a 1/4" step-down (or notch) in the profile aft of the body-side hinge beam ... but again, others will differ.

CHEERS!

[txcamper]

Page 20 of the genericbenroy pdf file shows a 3/8" trim from the hatch spar to the floor. If you haven't seen that pdf yet, it's an incredible amount of information.

[aggie79]

I can't remember who - I believe it was Danny (above) - was gracious enough to explain to me how to cut the "notch" for the hatch after the sidewalls are up. Here are a couple of sketches and pictures that show that process using the router and bits Danny described. (Click the images for a larger view.)

[Larry C]

Lots of folks have differing ideas, but in my experience, a 1" overhang of the Galley Lid Hinge is unnecessary ... I only recommend 3/8" on each side, just enough to guide the water off the top and away from the Roof Edge Moldings and the hinge gap (I also sometimes run a piece of Door Seal between the hinge pieces, sealing that gap ... not totally necessary, but it really helps on dusty roads!). However you choose to go about it, Good Luck!

And, oh, BTW ... I recommend a 1/4" step-down (or notch) in the profile aft of the body-side hinge beam ... but again, others will differ.

CHEERS!

Grant,
Would you please explain your thinking on a 1/4" notch as opposed to most being 3/8" or even 1/2" Is it the availability of a good seal gasket for this thickness or are there other reasons?
Also, what gasket do you recommend?

Thanks,
Larry C

[Javanino]

I can't remember who - I believe it was Danny (above) - was gracious enough to explain to me how to cut the "notch" for the hatch after the sidewalls are up. Here are a couple of sketches and pictures that show that process using the router and bits Danny described. (Click the images for a larger view.)

Thank god for sketches. We are on the same page after all, that's exactly what I'm talking about. Outside notch where the rubber seal goes and will also make water run down and out if any gets past the seal.

[Javanino]

Then again, not exactly. The first cut alone is what I'm talking about. Cut the corner and place the weatherstrip there and don't do the second cut. It would act to do 2 things. Keep water from running into the galley and give the lid something more rigid to sit on when it's locked down.

Again, I'm just thinking out loud here guys. I'm a newb to all this teardropping but part of the fun is trying different ideas. It's the more experienced guys job to say "Hey, we tried that and it didn't work. Here's why".