Trailer Steel size?

[Campin' Texan]

After weeks and countless late nights of reading this awesome forum, I think I'm gonna do it!

I've talked to a local welder about building me a 5 x 10 trailer. I was planning on 2x2 steel. He said that 1 1/4 steel would be plenty, especially after adding the floor. What is you opinion on this? Is 2x2 the general consensus?

Thanks!

[Wanna Be]

Campin Texan,

First off, The smaller the outside size is The thicker the wall MUST be to obtain the same strength.
Most of the "homemade" trailer frames are made of 2x2 x 1/8" steel.

One thing to consider is the weights of the steel you plan on using.
I don't have my book of weights handy right now or I would tell you the weight differences.

On my trailer frame, I used 2x3x3/16" for the main frame and 1 1/2 x 1/8 angle for the intermedeate crossmembers.
NO flex at all !!!!
Weight is only # 275 So plenty light !!
Walls are framed with 14ga 1x1 square tube!
I haven't weighed it again, But my figguring the steel in the walls only added aproxamantly 100 # more to the total weight.

Hope this helps.

Wanna Be

[eamarquardt]

2X2 is about 6 times stronger than 1.25 X1.25 if they're the same wall thickness. It weighs about 1.6 times more. You can calculate the weight of your basic frame based upon how many feet of tubing you'll need and the weight per foot. When you compare the difference in the weight of the stronger frame to the total weight of the trailer I don't believe it will be very significant and you'll have a much better frame. If you're thinking of really harsh roads going to 2 X 3 wouldn't hurt as it is over 3 times stronger than 2 X 2 but only weighs 1.25 times as much as the 2 X 2 .

It has been my experience that wind resistance hurts gas mileage more than weight. Weight hurts when you want to accelerate or go up hills and it makes it harder to stop (but brakes can take care of that). Overall, a couple hundred pounds more, in the weight of the frame, isn't going to hurt your mileage much.

My two cents.

Cheers,

Gus

[Dale M.]

I used 2x2x.120 for main platform and 3x3x.120 for tongue...

2x2x.120 weighs in at 3.07 pounds per foot.
3x3x.120 weighs in at 4.70 pounds per foot.

So main platform (58"x108") with three addition cross braces and tongue on my build plus some misc steel for gussets and stabilizer mounts comes to about 150-160 pounds.... Axle, springs, tires & wheels are extra...



Dale

[Campin' Texan]

Thanks for the info so far. But I'm not really concerned about the weight of the trailer. I'm more concerned about the strength and stability of the trailer. I don't want the frame to warp or bend on me.

[eamarquardt]

It's not unusual for the trailer to warp a bit when you weld it up. You can straighten it by welding "beads" where you need to shrink the tubing to get it straight again. Once you get it straight, you can grind the welds off. Mine is warped just a tad and I'm going to try heat (versus welding beads) first.

Not a big deal. Getting it square and tacking it together while it's all square and level is more critical. Slight warping of the long members can be corrected.

Cheer,

Gus

[Forrest747]

I went with 2x2 for the trailer with a 2x3 for the bumper and tongue. with the larger wheels and everything it came in at 400#. i think you could get away with 2x2 as teh permimeter and 1 1/4 as teh crossmembers.

[Robbie]

I guilt my 5x8 trailer frame out of 2x2x1/16" tubing for the main frame and cross members and used the 2x2x1/8" for the toungue. It is plenty strong. Especially with the cab bolted to it I have no fear of how long it will last or how strong/durable it is. And it will tow like nothing is back there because it is much lighter than standard .120 built trailers.