Trailer jack

[GuitarPhotog]

I had a blow out on my home from the DAM Gathering but was lucky to be <4 miles from home. I didn't have a jack or spare, but was able to borrow a nice floor jack and an axle stand from a neighbor.

I'm looking for a jack that I can afford, is reliable, and doesn't weigh more than about 25 lbs. because I will have to carry it in a cabinet in the cabin. The 70 pound Harbor Freight jack is completely out of the question, I couldn't lift it out of the trailer.

So, does anyone have suggestions for a good, easy to use, axle jack for my <1,000 pound teardrop? I'd rather not spend a fortune since this is an occasional-use only item.

My previous "Plan A" was to use the scissors jack from my car, but the specialized mating surface wasn't stable under the round axle or the spring shackle. I need something with a round "jack pad" lifting surface.

Thanks

<Chas>

[doug hodder]

Why don't you just make up a "jack pad" adapter that can attach to the top of the jack to fit your purpose? You can also pick up a scissor type jack from just about any type car from a pick n pull or junk yard. Doug.

[mary and bob]

How about a hydraulic "bottle" type jack, or another scissor jack that isn't made for a particular vehicle. I have a couple old ones that have a slightly curved saddle on top. Or you could weld on something to a junkyard scissor jack, or a new one for that matter to fit your axle. I did this with a couple of those trailer support jacks, a short piece of channel iron to keep them from slipping off the tube frame of our Uhaul camper. Sears has a decent small floor jack that comes in a plastic case, I have three of them and they work good but you really don't need something like that to carry around for changing a flat tire. A few short pieces of board are always handy too for leveling a camper, and under a jack if you need to use one. A safety note here: it is generally considered unsafe to support a vehicle on concrete blocks as they can break. I have to admit to doing it only if I'm not going to be under that vehicle, and when I have done it, I place the block holes up and a board on top of the block, but best bet is don't do it ever. Another trick I learned is; when changing a tire, put the spare under the edge of the vehicle so that if the jack slips, the vehicle won't drop completely on the ground and possibly pinning you under it. Don't ever get under a vehicle that is only supported on a jack, and be sure to chock the wheels. Doug posted while I was typing this long winded answer, good answer Doug. Bob

[S. Heisley]

This is a really good thread/point to bring up. I always figured I could use my car's jack, if I needed to change a tire on my trailer and I'm betting that there are others who have thought this way. Since our trailers are light-weight, can the car jack be used on the chassis frame of the trailer instead of the axle?

What about the stabilizing jacks on the trailer? If you have them on all four corners and use the two corner ones on the side with the flat, could ratcheting those up be enough to allow one to change a tire or is that a dangerous idea?

What would happen if both the stabilizers and the car jack were used together...would they equal the strength of an axle jack?
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Please feed my ignorance, (and others, too!) thanks.

[mary and bob]

Most car jacks now, or at least on newer cars I have owned, go under the rocker panel at a marked location, rather than under the axle, and they are heavy duty enough to raise a small trailer. I would say using the stabilizer jacks is probably OK, but it kind of depends on the strength of your frame. They are more intended as "stabilizers" rather than a lifting jack, and too much stress not placed in the correct position could distort the frame. When you jack on the axle, that is where the load is anyway with the trailer setting normally, so that is the best jacking point. Here's something else to think about, years ago a coworker had his car in the shop, a two door hardtop model, with the whole car raised on two heavy duty truck bumper jacks. This is when cars still had real bumpers. He was rotating tires and figured this was the quick way to do it. Well, someone came along and opened one of the doors, and because the stress on the unibody now was not normal as when the wheels were on the ground, it distorted the car body a little so that the doors did not shut right. So is raising a camper's wheel off the ground with the stabilizer jacks a good idea, you decide. And how about those quarter rounded dodads that you set under the axle and pull the trailer ahead a little to lift the wheel off the ground? I'll stick with a real jack. Or better yet add RV coverage onto your AAA for another $20. I have it, and I'm a retired truck mechanic that used to do road calls all the time! Bob

[S. Heisley]

Most car jacks now, or at least on newer cars I have owned, go under the rocker panel at a marked location, rather than under the axle, and they are heavy duty enough to raise a small trailer. I would say using the stabilizer jacks is probably OK, but it kind of depends on the strength of your frame. They are more intended as "stabilizers" rather than a lifting jack, and too much stress not placed in the correct position could distort the frame. When you jack on the axle, that is where the load is anyway with the trailer setting normally, so that is the best jacking point. Here's something else to think about, years ago a coworker had his car in the shop, a two door hardtop model, with the whole car raised on two heavy duty truck bumper jacks. This is when cars still had real bumpers. He was rotating tires and figured this was the quick way to do it. Well, someone came along and opened one of the doors, and because the stress on the unibody now was not normal as when the wheels were on the ground, it distorted the car body a little so that the doors did not shut right. So is raising a camper's wheel off the ground with the stabilizer jacks a good idea, you decide. And how about those quarter rounded dodads that you set under the axle and pull the trailer ahead a little to lift the wheel off the ground? I'll stick with a real jack. Or better yet add RV coverage onto your AAA for another $20. I have it, and I'm a retired truck mechanic that used to do road calls all the time! Bob

Thanks, Bob. That's helpful. It's always easier and safer to call the professionals who also have the right tools; however, there are times when some people won't or can't do that, especially if they are in an area where there is next to no or no cell phone service. So, it's better to come up with the answers to the questions before you need them. I would elect to call for help, if I could...always.

[S. Heisley]

Most car jacks now, or at least on newer cars I have owned, go under the rocker panel at a marked location, rather than under the axle, and they are heavy duty enough to raise a small trailer. I would say using the stabilizer jacks is probably OK, but it kind of depends on the strength of your frame. They are more intended as "stabilizers" rather than a lifting jack, and too much stress not placed in the correct position could distort the frame. When you jack on the axle, that is where the load is anyway with the trailer setting normally, so that is the best jacking point. Here's something else to think about, years ago a coworker had his car in the shop, a two door hardtop model, with the whole car raised on two heavy duty truck bumper jacks. This is when cars still had real bumpers. He was rotating tires and figured this was the quick way to do it. Well, someone came along and opened one of the doors, and because the stress on the unibody now was not normal as when the wheels were on the ground, it distorted the car body a little so that the doors did not shut right. So is raising a camper's wheel off the ground with the stabilizer jacks a good idea, you decide. And how about those quarter rounded dodads that you set under the axle and pull the trailer ahead a little to lift the wheel off the ground? I'll stick with a real jack. Or better yet add RV coverage onto your AAA for another $20. I have it, and I'm a retired truck mechanic that used to do road calls all the time! Bob

Thanks Bob. It's always better and probably safer to have the answers to questions before you need them. Of course, I would always elect to call for help if a phone or cell phone service were available. Professionals know what they are doing and have the right tools.

[doug hodder]

I guess I've worked around this sort of thing a lot in the past so the idea of a specific jack isn't an issue for me. If it fits under the trailer, it'll lift it somewhere, just think it through. A jack doesn't need to be put directly under the axle. On all of the new cars, with no frame (trucks excepted)...it's on the body. Just stick a small board or a chunk of plywood on top of the jack to spread the load and have at it. It's much less weight than a car.

Put it under the frame members or if you have done a good enough job of building...on the floor if necessary, if it's just to change a tire. Just keep your body out from under the lifted unit. Crack all the lugs before you lift it so that it doesn't jiggle when up on the jack, snug them up prior to letting it down, then tighten them up. It doesn't need to be directly under the axle. I"m sure others opinions differ....Doug

[GuitarPhotog]

My trailer has a rather minimal frame, but has a sturdy old-fashioned axle with leaf springs. Jacking the frame is not a solution in my case, I must jack up the axle.

I'm not a welder, so making an axle saddle for a salvaged car scissor jack isn't a solution either. My stabilizing jacks lift the frame, at the back corners, and don't have enough range to get the axle off the ground. They have round pads that would not support the axle. They were part of "Plan A" but didn't survive the first reality check.

I'll go check the local junk yards and see what they have, but I'm not much into "junkyard dog" style stuff

More suggestions please!

<Chas>

[doug hodder]

Some glued up pieces of ply would work for the jack saddle. It's a compression thing...doesn't need to be done in steel.

[S. Heisley]

I did a search and came up with this. It says it works on a round or square axle; but I have no idea how....got good reviews, though:

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product ... PING_81181

...It sure is strange looking....

Here's another, similar one:

http://www.nextag.com/Springfield-Quick ... 7F39726FF5

Maybe someone here knows about them and can comment.

[Lancie49]

No way I would rely on the stabilisers to support the weight of the TD, no matter how light you think it may be.
They are not designed to do that job.
A little bit of forward planning should cover most bases if/when you need to jack the TD.
I always carry a few timber blocks to put under the car jack if needed, and Yes, I have tested the method at home to be sure it is safe and secure.
Always check before you leave home, that whatever method you think will work, will in fact work, and work safely.

[mary and bob]

Sharon, your links are the "dodad" I was referring to. It goes against the axle and as you pull the trailer ahead it lifts the axle. Of course if you go too far the wheel is back on the ground and this thing maybe jammed into the bottom of the trailer or up through the floor. I've never actually seen or tried one so I really can't give a good account of their value. And Doug's comment about loosening & tightening the lug nuts with the wheel on the ground is the best way to do that. If that "dodad" would work with a torsion axle I don't know. Bob

[ParTaxer]

Mike's theory on life: If you have a jack, you won't have a flat. Likewise, leave a jack at home and you will have a flat in the worst neighborhood.

Mike

[Shadow Catcher]

A did you report the blow out to the NHTSA, if we do not report failures they will continue to sell us junk trailer tires. https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq
B I took a grinder to a car scissors jack it is now a dedicated trailer jack. I use the trailer leveling blocks to get enough height.