Please Review - 5' x 10' Generic Benroy Trailer Frame

[crpngdth2001]

Please take a look at the diagram and let me know if everything looks ok before I get quotes to get this trailer built. It's a 5 x 10 trailer, with the following detail:

Chassis 2x2x.120, Tongue 2x3x3/16, Corner Gussets (for stabilizers) 5x5x3/16
Std Axle 2000lb GVWR, 5 x 4.5 Lug Pattern
2" Rear Receiver

The remainder of the dimensions and detail are in the drawing.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll68/crpngdth2001/2012%205x10%20Benroy/5x10Trailer.jpg

[KCStudly]

Take a real close look at the stabilizer jacks that you intend to use. You may find that the 5 x 5 plates aren't as big as you think they are when they are up against the frame rail tubing. I had to do some contorting and use a swivel socket with extension to get the nuts on the outboard location of the stabilizer up in the hole and started, because the opening in the mounting portion of the jack is closed on three sides.

I don't think you need the center tongue member, eliminate it and set the outer tongue rails to 50 deg apart; that's the std coupler angle for weld on. Make the front cross member from the same thicker material as the tongue rails. Some will argue that the A-frame tongue prevents the maneuverability that comes with a mono tongue, but in a 5x10 you will want the strength of the A-frame.

The only other advice I have is to spend as much time as you can thinking ahead with all of the little details; the safety chain mounting, the tongue jack (maybe unnecessary since you have forward stabilizers), shock mounts (if you will be using them), any lighting that will be attached to the frame, where will the floor skins lap or butt (do they line up with your xmbrs and is that an efficient use of material), suspension mounting details (work from a standard axle configuration rather than having to custom order), etc. If you are spending money to have someone else build your frame it will be far more convenient (i.e. less expensive in the end) to take care of everything now, than to have to add on details or make corrections later.

You are off to a great start! Good luck with your build, and remember, lots of .

[crpngdth2001]

I don't think you need the center tongue member, eliminate it and set the outer tongue rails to 50 deg apart; that's the std coupler angle for weld on.

Take a real close look at the stabilizer jacks that you intend to use. You may find that the 5 x 5 plates aren't as big as you think they are when they are up against the frame rail tubing.

I want to use a standard bolt on coupler, and in the future I may be going to an offroad style articulating coupler.

I will take a close look at stabilizers first before I finalize this. I 'guessed' that would be plenty big enough, it makes sense to check it out thoroughly to avoid an issue later.

I appreciate the input!

[KCStudly]

I checked my stabilizer mounting pads this evening and they are 4-1/2 x 4 inch, with the stabilizer folding across the back toward the centerline. This leaves enough room between the jack and the rear xmbr for one of my cabin mounting bolts and just barely enough room to get the nut between the jack and inside wall of the side frame rail; so you will probably be okay with 5 x 5.

Have you seen my build? I have my trailer built with a 50 deg tongue frame and custom swivel coupling. Frame is 99% done and am just starting in on the cabin.

Have fun!

[crpngdth2001]

Have you seen my build? I have my trailer built with a 50 deg tongue frame and custom swivel coupling. Frame is 99% done and am just starting in on the cabin.

Have fun!

I just read through the entire thread, absolutely amazing work on the frame. The coupler is a work of art too - but if I go that route, it will certainly be something 'off the shelf'. I think I might have read your TV is a Jeep, is that right? Mine is a 2005 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited.

Again, thanks for the input and look forward to progress on your cabin.

Jim

[KCStudly]

I just read through the entire thread, absolutely amazing work on the frame. The coupler is a work of art too - but if I go that route, it will certainly be something 'off the shelf'. I think I might have read your TV is a Jeep, is that right? Mine is a 2005 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited.

Again, thanks for the input and look forward to progress on your cabin.

Jim

Thanks for the kudos, Jim. Yeah it's an '03 Wrangler with 2" Rubicon Express spacer lift and shocks, 31 inch Open Country AT's, JKS sway bar disconnects, a 3 inch AEV SS cat back, Rancho steering stabilizer and cheap Chinese aluminum radiator. It has the NV3550 HD 5 spd and NV231 xfr case, but the crappy D35 rear axle, and horrible 3.07 axle gear ratios. I have 4.10/4.11 gear sets, a Super 35 spline rear axle and ARB locker upgrade for the rear, and a Superior alloy axle with the correct lower gear split open diff carrier for the front all ready to go, but will probably need to farm out the install due to time constraints. We towed the boat up to Maine a few summers ago and it did okay, but 5th gear is about useless most of the time, and it just has to be harder on the clutch in 1st due to the larger than stock tires. Bet you are real happy with your Rubicon UL. Has everything I don't have (gears, lower low range, lockers, more interior space) except for the "spin like a top" maneuverability.

A little advice. If you haven't already, do lots of research on this site, and look at the different forums. There is a huge pool of information here to draw from. Lots of innovative stuff going on in the Foamies section, too. Lots of opinions and people willing to say what worked or didn't work for them and why.

The most important thing to do is to have fun, but make sure to include lots of pictures!

[crpngdth2001]

Well, I got one of my quotes back today for the trailer. I guess I'll have to wait for a couple of others to come back to see where it fits overall, but it seemed a little pricey.

Based on the diagram in the first post, and not including any flooring, coupler, wiring, lights, wheels/tires, etc (basic frame with axle only) - I got a quote of $700, all cleaned and wire wheeled down and ready to prime/paint. Does this seem reasonable or steep? I guess I'll wait until I get a couple more for comparision to make a decision.

I'm starting to second guess myself and think I should just use the HF 1,750lb 4x8 and get creative and build my 5x10 floorplan on it to save the difference from $275 (with wheels/tires) to the $700 (plus wheels/tires).

Was I unrealistic in expecting it might come back in the $500 range?

[KCStudly]

Custom costs.

For just the bulk steel that I had to buy (none of the little nick knack stuff), the suspension (axle, springs, etc.) I was in the $1200 range. Take away $300 for no brakes (maybe less when you add back in the std hubs) and it would still have been $900 before wheels and tires, safety chains, stabilizers, all the little stuff. No adder for my labor either.

$700 sounds pretty good to me, but all those little things add up.

At first I was concerned about sharing my costs because I didn't want to come off as bragging, and I know that there are all ranges of budget here, but I still think that it is important to offer a reality check for those who maybe are teetering on a decision and haven't really looked forward at all the details that add up.

When I got to the $2k mark and all I had for the cabin was windows and glue, after all of that work, I thought (very briefly, just for a tiny moment), "hmm, maybe I should have just bought a TS 5x9." Now I know why so many people just buy a utility trailer and tailor their design to it. I have no regrets though. I'm super happy with the way my frame came out and will have minimum worries when it's bouncing over the Magruder Road.

All up so far I'm at the $2400 mark. On target, I hope.

[Campin' Texan]

I just had almost the exact same trailer for a 5 x 10 benroy built for me. I had a friend of a friend do the welding for me. He charged me $150 for the welding, the steel was $160. After coupler, jack, chains, axle, springs, hanging hardware, hitch receiver, and really cheap tires, I had right at $700 dollars in it.

[crpngdth2001]

Well, I got another quote that was right at $750. Based on that, I guess I may have to bite the bullet if I have the trailer built. I could buy steel, square and tack up the frame, then have it built, but I'm guessing that won't save me a bunch. I trust my welding skills to tack up the frame, but not to weld it up.

[KCStudly]

In my experience, if you are not comfortable doing the welding, then your professional fabricator/welder may not be comfortable following your fit up work. No offense intended. I consider myself to be a mechanical professional and fabricator, and every time I work with my friend Karl (who is truely a professional metal fabricator of the first rate degree) I learn something about how to do something better and/or more efficeintly.

Try to think of something you know backwards and frontwards, something you are good at. What you do for a profession. Now think about if someone brought you something to work on that they where in over their head on, even by just a little. You would probably think that it was easier to have done the work yourself rather than follow in a non-experts foot steps. Like I said, no offense intended. I just think you will be happier in the end, and it will cost you less money and time to have the welder ply his trade for you.

The prices that you have been quoted are obviusly competitive, being so close, that you know they are honest. Compare that to what you would have to do differently in your build to make a commercially available trailer, or some other used trailer work for you. I know that it seems easy for me to say spend the extra money, but so many times it is money well spent and ends up saving money and your time in the end. I've been on both ends of the debate and have always had better outcomes when I listened to this advice. Didn't always have that option, but when I did it always worked out better.

I'll shut up now. $0.02

[crpngdth2001]

KC - Thanks for the replies. I thought about it over the weekend, and realized it came down to two choices really. Building EXACTLY what I want with the level of perfection/detail that my OCD personality REQUIRES, or building some lesser version that I doubt I'd be really happy with, leading to a 2nd unit being built a year down the road after using and selling the first.

Here, I've forewarned them of my luncacy and how 'detail oriented' I am, and prepared them for me showing up with a tape measure to check EVERYTHING before picking it up and paying for it. So, my quotes were based on 1/16-1/8" tolerances, being perfectly level, clean welds, all open tube ends capped cleanly, and even having the frame wire wheel prepped and 'ready to prime'.

It may delay my start 2 or 3 weeks due to $$$, but I think I'll just let them do it from scratch, and pick it up a week later. I think my finish work will be much easier with a well built, sturdy, level, square trailer from the start.

[KCStudly]

I could sense that that was the way you were headed and just needed a little reassurance. You and I are from the same cloth.

I started out thinking that I would be using cheap leftover luaun underlayment for my interior skins. After all of the love and attention I have put into my trailer, and after seeing big Mike's delam problems, it just does not make financial sense to not seek a certain level of acceptability the first time.

I am not pooh poohing anyone that has the foresight to build on a budget, or even those that have built "rat tears" (like Rat Rods, they may or may not be thrifty). If that is what you plan for and what you are comfortable building, and it makes you happy, I whole heartedly support you. I admire people like Cliff in GA, who is learning to do better by trial and error, constantly gaining experience and skills; and Becky ("OldRagBaggers") w/ The Sagwagon (?) who has seemingly unfounded trepidation (like me), but always pulls through with flying colors (I should be so lucky).

Then there are the true craftsman (like VTear...Vermont Tear?), and the well funded projects where money is a secondary consideration (like Crows Wing and Compass Rose). I like them all. We each will find a way to build what we can with the resources and skills that we have in order to achieve the vision that we have set forth.

Well I'm getting a little poetic , so all for now. Congratulations on taking a big leap toward your own vision!

[VETE76]

KMT Service Parts Inc.
31 Madison Blvd. Canastota, NY 13032
315 697 2441 315-697-8071 fax

I will supply you with the entire steel frame, a-frame tongue, axle, springs, hanger kit for the axle, 2” a-frame coupler, safety chains and a 2000# a-frame tongue jack for $431+ freight. You weld it together. (we build these daily and welding takes us 20 min per complete frame welded in jigs). Our frame has cross members on 24” centers. Not like the picture above. This frame doesn’t weigh any more because the steel in our frame is the correct thickness for a trailer, not for carrying a truck on it like the design above (your design is extremely safe and will work fine, but is not really the best choice available). Look at www.kristitrailer.com we have been building trailers for 25 yrs, we know what we are doing. Our frame is probably lighter and by having 24” cross members the floor won’t feel mushy. You simply have too much space between your floor members.
We can also supply it all welded up but then the freight will be very high due to the space it takes up not because of the frames weight.
fred 315-697-2441

[Forrest747]

With the rims and tires to match my jeep it came in at about $1000 for the frame and axle. so 750 is about right. I second all what KC said that your plans look good. nothing about your build in particular, i wonder how necessary are rear stabalizing jacks, i have them on mine and they are too short, poor planning on my part. yet in general the wheels are withing 2 feet on my rear bumper. i may add them to my front but well put a few miles on her before we decied on that one.