Portable vs. Window AC...the never ending debate

[Pyrofish]

I was shocked at how cheap the roof tops can be. My ceiling is too high to reach sans ladder. So I got the ducted inside, which has no controls on it. Then I stuck an analog thermostat on the wall at the other end of the trailer. It works great, and it comes as a package on that site. I did leave out the heater kit. We don't have much use for that in Florida

[8ball_99]

Exactly, Shop around online. If you walk into your local RV dealership and price a roof unit they will be anywhere from 1k to 15k. Online they are more like 500 to 900. I paid around 700 for my coleman cub. It cost a little more because it is low profile and doesn't pull much power. But a standard Duo-therm is a good AC and can be picked up for around 500 bucks. From what people have posted on here a good portable costs atleast a few hundred. Window ACs are dirt cheap though for around 100 bucks or so. Either of them takes up valuable space. Its also very hard to make a window AC look decent on a trailer. You also need to spend a few dollars enclosing them and sealing them up. Roof ACs come with the gasket to seal it to the roof and even the bolts So that price is for everything..

[GPW]

JMHO!! Being a thrifty guy instead of going for a “look” The smaller, much more Thrifty, window units work fine (if you get the right size ) and are EASILY replaceable ... Where I live (Rains a LOT ) , I’ve learned over the years a hole in the roof around here is eventually a leak ... All in what you Need !!!!

[Wolfscout]

I agree with GPW. I'm not willing to risk a hole in my roof. Roofs eventually leak and I do not wish to ever go through that scenario on anything trailer, house or otherwise again.
Whatever one gets that does the job to suit them is the best.
If you desire appearance then get yourself a roof model. If you're only requirement is that it cools your camper to suit you and noone else, then get one of the many varieties on the market. I don't even know if there is a limit to what's offered or can be done.
Enjoy yourself afterwards is the main thing. Got to be able to relax when you're bedding down for the night... er.... after extracurricular activities.

[8ball_99]

You guys are really worried about something that there is no reason to worry about.. Every camper on the planet has roof vents. Most of the time if a roof vent leaks its cause the lexan dome is broke. A roof AC uses the same hole. They come with a very thick heavy duty gasket that goes under the AC on top of the roof.. It doesn't stick, glue screw nothing.. It just sets there. 4 long bolts run from the AC to the inside to a metal frame. Tighten the bolts up and it clamps the AC down onto the gasket. They really don't leak.. I've installed and replaced hundreds of them. As long ast they are installed right they won't leak for the life of the AC.. And by right its not like there is a trick to it.. You scrape off any silicone, putty ect thats on the roof and lay the gasket down. Its really that simple. IMOH it would be much harder to seal a window unit in the wall of a trailer then install a roof unit.. I used to work construction years ago and couldn't tell you how many times I had to repair walls under windows from window ACs. If the two little drain holes glog wich they always do the water then runs out where ever it can.. Most of the time right on the window seal and down the wall.. If built into the wall of the trailer that water would be in the wall. Well I mean I guess if the hole was trimed out with metal and sealed well it wouldn't. But I still think a window unit through the wall would be a MUch greater risk of water damage then a roof AC..

LoL course as far as holes in the roof. I've got two roof vents and a AC up there. Plus refrigerator vent. Not worried a bit about leaks. My trailer as been with in a few miles of 4 tornados so far. The only place I ever get any leaks from is my rear ramp door.

[linuxmanxxx]

Exactly my thoughts. 4 roof vents installed and only 1 leaked due to not being installed correctly (my fault). 3 days to build in my last window unit so it was sealed and drained properly and end cost after time spent was way more than roof model cost.

[Glenlivet]

For me the matter of deciding whether to go roof or wall A/C, it wasn't a leak concern but overall practicality that carried the day. I didn't want to lose the only roof vent my little 6 x 10 trailer has, and I worried about the weight of a roof mount A/C on a roof frame that is not really made to support one.
Then too I needed to be able to start and run an A/C on my quiet little Champion 2000i, which the 13,500 BTU roofers just won't. Sure there's the Coleman Polar Cub, but it's still a 9000 BTU load along with its unknown startup surge, and just try and find one around here! $$$ for sure. Someone mentioned $700.00, and for me there'd be additional shipping charges and a customs broker fee. Getting expensive for an A/C I don't know if my generator would even run.

This, when I could have a brand new 5200 BTU window shaker for $100.00, could test it for whether the generator will run it before committing, would have it framed in for maybe another $40.00 in materials and paint and still keep my existing roof vent, and there was no question which way to go.

[8ball_99]

For me the matter of deciding whether to go roof or wall A/C, it wasn't a leak concern but overall practicality that carried the day. I didn't want to lose the only roof vent my little 6 x 10 trailer has, and I worried about the weight of a roof mount A/C on a roof frame that is not really made to support one.
Then too I needed to be able to start and run an A/C on my quiet little Champion 2000i, which the 13,500 BTU roofers just won't. Sure there's the Coleman Polar Cub, but it's still a 9000 BTU load along with its unknown startup surge, and just try and find one around here! $$$ for sure. Someone mentioned $700.00, and for me there'd be additional shipping charges and a customs broker fee. Getting expensive for an A/C I don't know if my generator would even run.

This, when I could have a brand new 5200 BTU window shaker for $100.00, could test it for whether the generator will run it before committing, would have it framed in for maybe another $40.00 in materials and paint and still keep my existing roof vent, and there was no question which way to go.

Understand 100% on the price thing. You can't beat a 100 dollar window shaker on price.

FWIW My Honda 2000I runs my Coleman cub np. Coleman also now sells a 12.5 AC that pulls almost the same amount of power as the cub. So a generator that can handle up to a 2000 watt surge should be able to handle either one. I'm sure its cause of all these different brand 2000I Generators everyone is using. Heck I've seen people running a generator like mine when their camper already has a built in one. lol Ask them about it and they almost always say they only run that loud one if they need the AC

[kstephenson]

Just thought I would add to the debate on window vs portables....lol
I went with window due to the fact I didnt have to cut any holes in my roof or walls of my trailer.....also the 90 dollar price tag was nice.
As for the durability of vibrations....I have taken this trailer down some of the roughest rockiest mountain roads the Blue Ridge and Smoky Mountains can throw at it. And guess what? when I get to where I m going......65 degrees in a 90 degree ambient. My unit is has seen over a dozen trips to the mountains...and going strong. If it ever fails...I stop at any Lowes...Home Depot....or Walmart....and a hundred dollars later...I m cooling. That you cant say about roof tops and portables.

Do the math....insulate your trailer good and use an economical window unit. Low power consumption...Cheap in Price....Easy to Install....Found at any major department store and Hardware Store...

Just wanted to give my 2 cents....

Happy Camping....and watch out for the bears...

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Do any of you guys have any experience running a window shaker on a cheap $200-$300 generator ?

These Generators are all modified sine wave & I was wondering if it will work ?

Thanks for your advice & experience

Jerry

[k1hog]

DW and I live in Louisiana, it really has been hot, and as I have posted earlier, we have not been camping since early in the summer. The single hose 10,000 BTU portable air conditioner would not keep our 7X14 CT cool, even though it is very well insulated. The single hose units pull hot air from the out side. I do not want a roof air and don't like the looks of the window units, so I have ordered this: AP14001HS - EdgeStar Extreme Cool 14,000 BTU Dual Hose Portable Air Conditioner & Heater - Black $449.99 no shipping. As soon as I get it installed and tested, I will post the outcome.

Johnnie

[flboy]

My portable AC cools well as it is, but I decided to modify it slightly to work as a two hose system. I think it will be much more efficient pulling the condensor cooling air from the outside and not drawing (or creating a vacuum) hot air in from outside. I'll see how it does.. going camping later this week for four days. Even with this modification, it seems more air comes out of the system than is drawn in from the new hose? I haven't figured that out yet, but it should make a big improvement in any case.

1 cake pan, a 4" stem, some weather stripping to make a seal... and there you go. I did cut another hole in the floor for the intake (picture later). The homemade shroud is held on with a bungee strap and seals well. I can take it off easily for travel.

BTW--- I got this great idea from another poster. Was thinking about it... but the cake pan hadn't occurred to me. I was thinking about fabricating something. WalMart has all sorts and sizes of cake pans. $3.98. With the 4" stem and hose, the entire mod was less that $20.00. Only bummer is I had to cut anothjer hole in the floor. I am contemplating how I will cover that when not in use. I have some ideas. Pics later.

[flboy]

Exactly, Shop around online. If you walk into your local RV dealership and price a roof unit they will be anywhere from 1k to 15k. Online they are more like 500 to 900. I paid around 700 for my coleman cub. It cost a little more because it is low profile and doesn't pull much power. But a standard Duo-therm is a good AC and can be picked up for around 500 bucks. From what people have posted on here a good portable costs atleast a few hundred. Window ACs are dirt cheap though for around 100 bucks or so. Either of them takes up valuable space. Its also very hard to make a window AC look decent on a trailer. You also need to spend a few dollars enclosing them and sealing them up. Roof ACs come with the gasket to seal it to the roof and even the bolts So that price is for everything..

I agree with all said... but the biggest issue I had with the roof top unit is that they set in the weather all year long and that seems to deteriorate them more than using them does. Seems every one I had failed for some reason related to non-use and setting in the weather (Bugs and Squirrels love to nest in them).. and then to fix.. the parts were always expensive and it is a pain to unmount it to work on. Just been my experience given I am not retired and my stuff only gets used a handful of times each year. I think non-use is harder on some things than using them.

[k1hog]

AP14001HS - EdgeStar Extreme Cool 14,000 BTU Dual Hose Portable Air Conditioner & Heater - Black, this is the unit I bought and installed. The unit requires two holes, one for the inlet and one for the outlet, 4 3/4" holes each. I had already installed a single hose unit, did not cool trailer, the hose was vented though the floor, the vent pushed air out, so not a problem. The new ac was two hoses, the outlet hose went to the hole in the floor, since I did not want the inlet hose to suck particals from the ground, I had to vent the hose outlet hose to the side of the trailer. I was not looking forward to drilling a 4 3/4" hole in the side of the trailer, but I did, right in the front, not quite sure how to cover the hole at this point. Installed the hoses and secured the ac. Looked very good, and matched the freg. DW and I went camping this weekend last, only site was in the sun, no shade, it was very hot in Louisiana, and the ac unit worked great, kept the trailer cool in the heat of the day.

Now the only issue is to cover he hole, so no rain or things get in.

Every one has there own needs in a trailer conversion. I did not like the looks of the window installed ac and did not want the increase the height of the trailer, the height was a very big issue for me, that is why I choose an inside unit. I am very pleased with the install, and will post pictures soon, in the mean time any ideas on how to cover the 4 3/4" hole?

Johnnie

[pmowers]

I was not looking forward to drilling a 4 3/4" hole in the side of the trailer, but I did, right in the front, not quite sure how to cover the hole at this point. ...
Now the only issue is to cover he hole, so no rain or things get in.

Every one has there own needs in a trailer conversion. I did not like the looks of the window installed ac and did not want the increase the height of the trailer, the height was a very big issue for me, that is why I choose an inside unit. I am very pleased with the install, and will post pictures soon, in the mean time any ideas on how to cover the 4 3/4" hole?

Johnnie

Try the deckplate covers that Shadow Catcher turned me on to. They come in various sizes and are pretty easy to use. I put two into the side of my CT for the external AC unit. The are readily available online and are pretty cheap- I think that I paid about $6 a piece.

Pat