A toyhauler cargo conversion

[pvangel]

This is my humble 5x8 semi converted cargo trailer, it works great for our overnights at the track but am hoping to build a more "refined" trailer which is what brought me to this site.

At the track,










I am shopping for a new trailer now and have been looking at 6' and 7' by 12' or 14' single and double axle but have not chosen the trailer yet, I'm concerned with MPG so want a small trailer but want a big trailer for the comfort.

[pvangel]

My interior is about storage and not comfort at this point, my son and I race in the North East and travel from Delaware to New Hampshire and as far west as West Virginia, 8 weeks a year as well as use the trailer on a weekly basis for training/riding locally.







I want some of the creature comforts of home in my next trailer, like a bed and a shower.

I do LOVE the rooftop tent and will probably use it on the next trailer.

[pvangel]

My "sketch" of a 7x12 which is just to see what I can fit and where.







I have a good idea of what I want but need help in plumbing and mostly Electric! My carpentry and steel skills are good, plumbing ok but electric not so much...

Thats why I posted here, feel free to help!

[David_L6]

Since you want a shower, look under the trailer before you buy it and make sure there is room for water tanks. I'd like to add a shower in my 7 X 16 for my son to use after his hare scramble races but, due to the way it's built, I don't see how I can without the tanks being very close to the ground. The cross braces have only a small space between them. I'd end up with tanks that hold very little water or, if I used larger tanks and let them hang below the trailer frame rails, there wouldn't be much ground clearance. I've pretty much given up that idea.

[bc toys]

welcome to the world of cargo if you need electrical help just say the word we can help and plumbing we can help there also you can get tanks that can go under cabinets and pumps for gray water they make portable carriers that you can drag behind to go to dump [or woods] as for electrical you jut need to be careful going threw the studs and go ahead and run a cord up to your vent nothing smaller then 14 gage wire 12 up to vent d/c only needs 2 wires and a/c needs 3 for a/c i used exstion cords from my old shop ones.

[pvangel]

I am thinking of just doing an outside shower, we don't need a toilet as the race track usually provides them and would prefer not to use up space inside the trailer. I want to put a outside door into the base cabinet which would house the water tank,pump, battery and heater. This also eliminates a gray and/or blackwater tank, I usually bring a 5gal solar camp shower which usually is enough so figured I would get a 10gal tank and that would be more than enough.

Electrical would just be some additional lighting as well as the water pump and a way to keep the battery charged.

[pvangel]

I have this water heater that I bought for another project but did not use, has anybody used one of these before? Not sure how I would mount it because the fumes have to get out the top, maybe on a swing out door or on the outside with a cover over it?





I would like to use it because I have it or should I look for something else?

[pmowers]

I have looked at a number of setups using that type of water heater. They must be used outside, as they are about 35,000 btu, and one manufacturer says that you need a minimum space of about 2900 sq. ft. I am planning on using a similar one, just making a hanger to mount the heater on the outside of the trailer. One manufacturer actually has a setup with the 20 lb propane tank mounted on a dolly, with the heater mounted above it.

I am not sure where it is, but somebody posted a link to a youtube video of an off-road trailer with a fold-out kitchen, that used that heater.

[ktm527]

I have the same water heater - it works great in my 7x14. I have a shower installed that I bought at Home Depot, heater and water tank installed behind it with a vent pipe running through the roof. I do leave the door open when my sons and I shower and have had no issues, no odor, and no alarms from our CO alarm in the trailer.

[pvangel]

I would love to see some pics of your setup!

[pvangel]

Help me with the electrical system,
I would like to have a few 12v "bright" lights in the center of the trailer and some under cabinet lights as well as a fantastic fan and water pump, I think all 12v? I don't want a AC unit and probably don't need heat. I have a Honda EU 1000 that I use at the track now and again to run a fan that we put under the ez up on a hot day and maybe charge the cell phone with. Sooo... should I bother with any 110 in the trailer? A 110 converter? I will put a 12v RV battery in the trailer and have the Tow Vehicle to charge it or the EU? Or a solar panel? Or....How do I charge the trailer battery off my truck?
I am only camping for a day or two at a time (right now) and appreciate any feedback on the matter.
Thanks!!!

[jwhite]

I originally had a 12volt deep cycle battery and useing it very spareingly mainly to run the stereo and a light it would last all weekend,but I wanted more so I bought 2 golf cart batteries and they are 6volt but 2 gave me 12volts and alot of amp hours.
I bought a 1100 watt inverter off Ebay for 60.00 now I can plug in the TV, fan, chargers, extra lights and pull from the batteries and not have to run the generator and it works great,of course if I run the generator I can plug in those things also.
I had the batteries in the trailer but decided to put them outside on the tounge so I had to buy 12ft of heavy copper wire and wire them to the inverter now when I want to charge the batteries they are outside and easy to get to and charge.
When I was buying the parts that go on the ends of the wires that hook to the battery I was talking to the sales person and he sold me a battery bug that lets me know what condition the batteries are in, a great find it was 1/2 off so for 10.00 I can see where my batteries are and when they need chargeing it also has a alarm that goes off if the batteries get to low?
For electrical I went to lowes and bought what contractors use it;s V shaped so you can attach it to a power pole it has lighted swithes that come in handy after dark,it has a 15ft heavy cord that I ran down through the floor and out onto the trailer tounge I just plug an extention cord to it and then to the generator or outside power and is simple and works great and has never tripped off. it was around 50.00 but worth every penny the 1st one I bought was to light weight and would trip off all the time.
I have a photo of it in my photo album.
PS I bought my hot water heater off ebay for 60.00 also and works great,it's ideal for camping and useing a water tank and 12volt pump because the slower and less water that goes through the heater the hotter the water will get and it get's scolding hot.

[pvangel]

Between the multiple storms in the NE and being busy at work I have still not bought a new trailer, I know I don't need one until the season opener at Budds Creek Md in March but that will be here before I know it.
Stopped by a trailer place today(Sunday and they were closed) and saw a 6x12 with no side door, this opened up so many more layouts for couches/beds/cabinets and got me to thinking why do I need one? My 5x8 doesn't have one and I have never missed it, I would have to refine the barn doors in the back but seems to make a lot of sense when every sq ft is precious at only 72 sq ft.
Thoughts?

[roadinspector]

I have seen CT's made with only a single door in the back. If you are ordering one you might check into that.

IMHO. If you get one off the lot with 2 rear doors, definitely get rid of the factory lever lock system. If you want to keep the lever latch for additional security while on the road, you would need to make a way to lock it where it is inoperable while you are occupying it. You could use a latch system like this on the second doors to secure it closed. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-757029-Zinc-Plated-Chain/dp/B000FKBP7M/ref=zg_bs_511280_20 I would use 2, one top one bottom. A standard RV style lock should take care of the first door. http://www.amazon.com/Travel-Trailer-Flush-Deadbolt-Keys-Colonial/dp/B00768Z37E/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2 This type is generally made for 1 1/4" - 1 1/2" thick door. My door was 1" so I had to shimmed with aluminum diamond plate.

Something I would suggest is to install a secondary escape in case you need to evacuate in case of an emergency and you can't use the doors. RV trailers have escape windows installed in them for this purpose. I've never had to use one and hope I never do. But it gives me some peace of mind knowing that I am not trapped.

Good luck and looking forward to your build.

Earnest

[pvangel]

New trailer is in the driveway! Haulmark 6x12, 6' interior height, barn doors in back, no side door, pretty much a stripped trailer at this point.







I have to decide on the cabinetry now but can layout on the walls and floor now that it is here.