minimum shore power connections?

[working on it]

Although I had planned for 12v and 110v since the start, and have dozens of drawings and recommendations on file from this forum on what to install, now that the time has come...I'm indecisive. I already have a 12vdc AGM Optima, a 410 watt Schumacher inverter, a 15/6/2 amp Schumacher charger/maintainer (with AGM settings), a couple of GFCI extension cords with triple outlets, and the various fuseboxes, junction blocks, wiring connectors, and main switch needed to hook it all up. And a Craftsman/Honda 2500 watt generator for back-up power . But I'm not sure of how to hook up the simplest way to a campground power box (I've never seen one). My wife has been the only one to use a campground outlet, and has the built-in cord (and adapters) to do so, but can't tell me what each is for ...she just plugs in till it works. I'm looking for the minimally intrusive hookup I can get away with, since my power requirements are low. The 12vdc AGM battery feeds 2 computer case fan ventilators (when main fan not used) + stereo/speakers + 12v lighting +(cold weather 300w heater) + inverter, which in turn feeds thru a GFCI to main fan (9") and LED controller (in lieu of 12v incandescent lights on the direct from 12v system). The inverter also functions as a state of charge monitor for the battery, and will shut down to preserve power. The GFCI serves as a safety in lieu of grounding the trailer frame (which is grounded to the 12vdc battery). The battery charger/maintainer is only switched on if the inverter shows the need to charge the battery or A/C is needed, or can be removed and re-located to charge the TV battery,if so needed. The generator is for A/C power, recharging the AGM battery either thru the automatically regulated charger, or if neccessary, thru a direct 12v wire (must be monitored), or whatever extra duties are called for.A separate GFCI cord is attached for safety here also. That brings us to the "shore power" question. Given that the 12v supplies are limited, and generated power is noisy, and makes fumes, shore power whenever available would be the power of choice. Can I get by with running a 12gauge standard household type extension cord to the power pedestal at a campground, which seems to be a 20amp service with built-in GFCI ? Surely that would power my charger and inverter to power everything I have. The only problems I see with that are when I run the A/C. At start up of the compressor cycle, it might draw 10amps on its own (5000 btu A/C), but I don't think that would be at the same time the charger would be at peak 10 amp draw. The other problem is that the GFCI I use would trip because of the campground power GFCI. In that case, I would just remove my trailer-side GFCI. Any one gone this route before? or if not, please advise me where I'm missing something. I'm at the point where I need to simplify (at last).

elect_srvce_ped_rv_metr_il.jpg (79.03 KiB) Viewed 1700 times

Is this what all hook-ups have? If I need to go with the 30amp twist-lock corded plug, like my wife's trailer has, I need to do it now.

[GuitarPhotog]

I've never seen a power pedestal as elaborate at the one you've shown.

Most that I've encountered have a 30A and a 15A outlet and a circuit breaker for each. A few have had a 50A and a 30A outlet and circuit breakers for each. Never have encountered a GFCI protected outlet on a campground power pedestal, never an electric meter (or even blank cover) and seldom anything more than a breaker box atop a piece of 1" conduit sticking out of the ground.

That said, I camp in RV parks/campgrounds with power about 60-70% of the time, and exclusively "out west." Practices may be different in other parts of the country.

My teardrop is setup for a 15A power service, so I carry a 15A-rated extension cord, and an adapter for a 30A crowsfoot receptacle. The trailer is protected by a 15A circuit breaker on its input.

<Chas>

[Dale M.]

As far as I am concerned about my 120 ac wiring is everything I need and want to have in trailer for safety ( breakers and GFI on entry service) needs to be on trailer side of my power cord...

All I expect at RV park location is a correct receptacle ( 15 or 30 amp) supplying 120 volts to the campground pedestal receptacle and a breaker....

I think one should always check the shore power receptive they intend to use with a AC circuit tester before plugging in trailer to shore power...



Leave nothing to "expecting" RV park to have proper wiring and protection of shore power they provide...

Dale

[les45]

I agree with Dale and always check all outlets with that same tool. I found recently while checking my new Progressive converter/charger system that my extension cord had an open ground even though the ground prong looked to be OK. I used a 20 amp service inlet on my build since I didn't install an air conditioner. My only AC gadgets will be a coffee pot, microwave, and space heater. I can use standard 12 ga extension cords, but you really need to get a set of adapters for whatever type of service you may find at the campgrounds. They can be 40, 30, 20, or 15 amp service and each takes a different kind of adapter if you want to use a standard 15 amp cord. You may need to use several adapters in series to get from the higher amps down to a standard cord.

[Forrest747]

This is what alot of the camping sites I have visited out west have. they have a 15A, 30A, and 50A. I have a standard extension cord as my power cord and carry a 30A to 15A plug as a precaution. keeps it simple. You can pick them up at any RV store and under 10 dollars is an easy and good solution. KISS prinicple. now if it gets lost i am sure someone at the campsite will have one.
http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-Male-Female-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00268WS72

[working on it]

If I read your replies correctly, there seems to not be a standard campground power supply; but,if I use a standard type (grounded, 3-prong) 110-120vac extension cord , it will be able to be plugged into a similar outlet, or by using the adapter like Forrest747 has shown, I'll be good to go using a trailer style outlet? If there's no GFCI in the park power circuit, I'll leave mine in line for safety.And I'll also use the tester shown...I keep one in my household parts drawer.

[Lgboro]

I would still carry a plug to fit the 30 amp plugin just in case. A few places only have 30 amp or 50 amp service. Especially in state and federal parks you may find just one way to plug in or not power at all.

[working on it]

Thanks for your advice, sorry about the delayed response, read on....In regards to this subject: all or most all of it was covered before and listed in SDTRIPPERS compendium of electrical factoids "before you start". I guess I had just read thru them a year or so prior, then forgot the info before I posted here. Since the last reply on 9-12-12, I have been rebuilding a collapsing/sagging ceiling (including the rafters and joists that were deteriorated, all from inside) and insulating rewiring and drywalling in that room (my wife's office), with flooring and cabinetry to follow. My plans to seal up my trailer (one door to go) and bring it home from my friend's shop (where it has been for 51 weeks!) to do the interior,wiring, and windows...have gone by the wayside. I had planned to tow it from northwest of Weatherford directly to the Loyd Park gathering this Saturday (sorta as a drive-by intro, as a still unfinished project); that's a no-go also. It's real frustrating to set goals and have others supplant their goals (wife) in their place. Oh, well. Back to the electrical...in the few spare moments granted me to work on my stuff, I pieced together my electrical panel according to the plans I stated above. The box was free, the other parts I had on hand for my car fetish. I only had to buy an AGM compatible charger/maintainer, and some mini-bungees to make the inverter and charger removable for outside use (tow vehicle, if needed). I also got a better plug tester, it can also test GFCI's, and an in-use weatherproof lockable housing to connect shore power to the trailer. I still haven't got the 30a male/15 female adapter plug (HD and Lowes don't have it, my wife's project requires that I live in those stores!). If I ever pass a camping world store, then I'll have that also. Here are photos of the panel/box. Descriptions accompany the pictures in my album.

[kludge]

Prudence (whoever she is) dictates that the extension cord from the pedestal to the trailer have sufficient gauge to carry the fault current of the breaker on the pedestal.

If it's a 30A or 50A connection on the pedestal, then the extension cord should be able to carry all of that current to ensure the breaker opens before the extension cord melts/catches fire.

A 20A breaker in the trailer isn't going to help you if the short is in the extension cord/someone cuts through it by accident.

Granted, MOST of the time, the breaker on the pedestal will open in case of a dead short, but sometimes a short isn't always a complete short, and in that case a 50A breaker will allow much more current to flow than a 12AWG or 14AWG cable can handle.

Do it right -- get a 30A or 50A extension cord and get 15A or 20A adapter for when the camp site doesn't provide 30A or 50A. Yes it costs more... from an RV dealer... but do a little wiring research, go to your big box DIY and buy the cable and plugs and do it yourself. If you built a trailer, I assume you know how to use a knife and a screwdriver, and that's all that is required.

"Hey, kludge, can you point to one case where..." No, but you don't want to be the one.

[working on it]

I just spent 30 minutes typing out a detailed explanation of my wiring plans,WIPED OUT BY A POWER SURGE (how ironic?!?), acknowleging some shortcomings and adding some safety modifications prompted by the last post by kludge. I am still going to use 12ga extension cords and RV adapters, but I'm adding an inline ac voltage circuit breaker (20 amp) in the shorepower line' which should trip before wire meltdown. My generator feed is already circuit breaker protected, as is my 12vdc battery and circuitry. I'm also putting in an "either/or" "plug & pigtail" system to force my significant other to use either shore power or generated power, but not both at the same time. No more blown generators. If somehow the land line melts or is stolen or cut, then we revert to 12vdc battery and on-board generated power if neccessary. I tend to lean towards the 12vdc "automotive" power anyway, the 110vdc is sometimes a bit edgy for me (ask my wife sometimes!). Thanks for trying to keep me from a shocking experience.