Has anyone built the 2+2?

[BoilermakerFan]

I found the design/plans for the 2+2. I know it's much bigger than most TDs at 12 feet long, but how heavy will it be whens it's done? What will the estimated TW be?

[mikeschn]

My guess would be between 1500 and 2000 pounds...

If you want to guess at the tongue weight, plug those numbers into Rik and Andrews spreadsheet, here...
http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... tear45.htm

Mike...

[BoilermakerFan]

Thanks Mike. The 2+2 would be pushing the 200lb/2000lbs towing limit of our 2000 V6 Jetta.

I may see if I can modify the design to get the length and weight down to right around 1500lbs with a/c and the keg!

[mikeschn]

Oh you have a Jetta too? Are you sure about that 200# tongue weight? I put the Baja Benroy on the Jetta, and started to lower the tongue... I stopped lowering it, and took it right off again, because it was sinking down too far.

I'm designing my Lil Diner to be 800# with a 99# tongue weight...

Mike...

P.S. My Jetta is a TDI

[BoilermakerFan]

I saw that you had the TDI. In 2000 when we leased ours, the dealer only had the V6 and 2.0 in stock. Ours is a GLX with 67,000+ miles on it, 55,000 in the first two years! The TDI is a neat engine with lots of additional potential once you're out of warranty!

I am going to check the owners manual to confirm, but all the hitch manf. list the V6 Jetta at 200/2000lbs max. I do not want to push that upper limit, even with electric brakes. It also might require stiffer progressive springs in the rear to get the max weight. I also plan to add an aux oil cooler and tranny cooler just to help keep everything cooler.

[BoilermakerFan]

OK, now I need ideas on how to shed weight out of the basic 2+2 trailer. I've thought of an aluminum frame, and thin ply,foam,ply walls. I'll have to probably pass on the a/c and furnace, but what other ways can I lighten the trailer's construction without making it smaller? Thought about LED lighting to allow for a smaller battery.

I realize the weighs I can scale back the load within the trailer, this question is directed only at the construction of the basic carcass. Ultra pricey, ultra modern materials such as a CF/Kevlar honeycomb are out due to cost and asthetics.

Brian

[mikeschn]

BoilermakerFan,

To keep it light, build your trailer out of 2" x 1/8" wall steel tubing. Yes, steel...

build your walls out of 1/8 or 1/4" skin, with 3/4" sticks inbetween. Laminate 3/4" foamular inbetween the skins.

Use Rik and Andrews spreadsheet to control the tongue weight... You should be under 136#.

See Rik's page for lamination buildups
See Andrews page for the tongue weight spreadsheet
See my Weekender page for the chassis



Mike...

P.S. And someday... see my Lil Diner page that Steve and I are doing to see how to build big and light!!!

[BoilermakerFan]

Thanks Mike. I saw your post on the 1/4"ply-3/4" insulation-1/8" ply wall build. That was going to be my plan for the walls unless somebody said that it wouldn't be strong enough due to the added width and length of the 2+2.

I was going to do the strength to weight comparison on the aluminum vs. steel to see which would be lighter at the required strength. I previously worked for a carbon steel tubing manufacturer and might get back into the industry when my non-compete expires in a year. Nice thing is one of my old distributors has a fab shop so he can cut all of my tubing to exact dimensions, label the pieces, and ship it down to my local welder.

I'll check out the recommended pages.

[mikeschn]

Yep, you're on the right track... just be sure to glue in that insulation, either with epoxy or titebond II. Then it'll be almost as good as a laminated panel, and really light. That's how I plan on keeping the lil diner lightweight!!!

Mike...

[BoilermakerFan]

It will be epoxied and I'm going to try to vacuum bag it as well. I know I can vacuum bag the sides, but the top and galley door will be trickier. The big bag might get a little pricey though, so that idea might shrivel on the vine.

Is the tongue weight of 136 pounds the max for the Jetta? Or is that your estimate based on the size of the 2+2 as designed? I'm out of town for the night so I won't be able to check my OM for the recommended and max towing weights.

[asianflava]

The only thing I could come up with was to build the hatch with screws and remove a section apply epoxy and rescrew. When it was put back together, then bag it.

Have no idea how the top could be done.

[angib]

build your walls out of 1/8 or 1/4" skin, with 3/4" sticks inbetween. Laminate 3/4" foamular inbetween the skins.

I'd second the 1/8" skin both sides, if they're part of a sandwich.

The design has 1-1/2" framing (ie, long side of a 1x2) in the roof sandwich as I reckoned a 6ft span was asking a lot of 3/4" framing.

Andrew

[josephhanson]

!/4" outside + 1/4" inside with 1" insulation all glued together will hold up
on a 6' span with no problems. If the top is curved the curved plywood will give extra support. My trailer is 6' wide 9' long and 6'tall. With 1/4" plywood sandwich, I can crawl around on the top with no sagging

[R Keller]

I second what Andrew said.

My roof is a 5-foot span (OK, 58"). Sandwich construction with 5/32" (4mm) plywood / 1.5" Styrofoam/ 5/32" plywood all epoxied together. Framing is 3/4" x 1.5" poplar on end, and is very minimal (24" or greater between).

Because of sandwich construction, it is extremely strong. I can stand on it mid-span and there is no flex at all.

For the most part, teardrops are overbuilt. For an eye opener, go to your local RV repair shop and look at how flimsily most large RVs are built. My local RV guy says: "if you have a fire in an RV, just walk through the wall to get out!"

In my case, since I have a flat roof, I wanted it really strong so I could hang out on it. The flat roof also works great for gear storage while on-site.

Rik

[mexican tear]

I have been reading this thread and have no idea what the 2+2 looks like. Where are the pics?

thanks
kai