by mezmo » Sun Oct 07, 2012 10:13 pm
Hi GPW,
To give additional attachment strength to your rib and bottom
plate connection you can glue in short lengths [width of ribs]1&1/2in
square pieces of your rot resistant wood [not pressure treated] on each
side of the rib, better yet [but a bit more fiddly] rip the square cross-section
diagonally into two triangular cross-section pieces - a small saving in weight
and a bit more elegant looking - and glued in they'd look and act like the
epoxy fillets in the stitch and glue boat method reinforcing the interior
corners created by the rib and plate dadoed butt joint.
Or maybe just glue or epoxy foot long pieces of your fiberglass tape
[if you've any left] with a 6in length of that each on the rib's sides and
the floor plate.
I know the exterior fabric skin overlap is the ultimate overall connection,
but I was thinking that ensuring the assembled rib structure is 'rigid' and
static and "square" where it needs to be, will be necessary in order to
be able to easily envelope it with the foam slabs. Precision cut ribs should be
precisely set up eh ? Ha ! If the stringers don't hold it "square" by themselves
once installed, you may also need to do some temporary interior diagonals
for triangulation to hold it in "square" too. Once the foam and skin has the
exterior set/rigid, you can then remove the temporary interior diagonals.
'Don't know if that'll be a problem, but I thought I should mention it. As I'm
sure you know, if "squareness" is achievable, it just makes assembly/fabrication
so much easier.
Looks like you will soon be Very busy !
Cheers,
Norm/mezmo
If you have a house - you have a hobby.