Woodworkers, I need help with beadboard

[CARS]

I am about to finish up the galley lid. I really love the look of old, open, front porches with the beaded ceilings. I also think that it would add some strength to the lid using "wood" instead of ply or FRP. (yes, it would add weight)

I think the traditional look has the boards about 1 1/2" to 2" wide. I have a router, table saw, etc. I could even come up with my own profiles for the beads, my main concern is what wood to use. What wood can I get thin enough (1/4" is my guess) but yet remain stable till I get it all assembled.

This is for the inside of my galley. Like a wainscot look, but 54" wide over your head

This is close to give an idea: http://dougfirflooring.com/news/wp-cont ... -Board.jpg

[Dean in Ct.]

White pine would be fine and light weight, or Doug fir. Yellow pine would be heavier. White cedar will smell nice if you don't finish it. How are you going to treat the edge? Too thin for tongue and groove. Maybe 1/2 lap? Maybe a radius on one edge and a cove on the other to make the curve easy?

[doug hodder]

It's also available in pre-made sheets 4x8 in both an MDF for painted applications and packaged in strips of interlocking pine for the "knotty pine" look. They're both about 1/4" thick. Home Depot had the strips...a hardwood lumber lard had the sheets. Doug

[CARS]

The strips of two boards are only around 30". I need 54"

I thought about just wasting the ends of a 4x8 sheet. I'll have to pull one off the rack and see how tight it bends.

[bjeppson]

How about mounting a center strip and then going with cutting down the 30" pieces. That way you would not have a seam, just a piece of lattice which I would get 3/16' to raise it slightly over the height of the bead board.

Bob

[WesGrimes]

I am thinking of mounting fiberboard to the walls, then ripping 1/8" x 3" strips of (various woods for contrast) to glue to he board. Fill the joints and gaps with stainable wood putty. Sand everything down. Stain, and poly finish. The wood type would not be too important then, because they are not providing any of the support. Purely cosmetic veneer.

[CARS]

How about mounting a center strip and then going with cutting down the 30" pieces. That way you would not have a seam, just a piece of lattice which I would get 3/16' to raise it slightly over the height of the bead board.

Bob

That's not a bad idea

If I matched the same profile on the ends, it would almost look like I knew what I was doing as a woodworker!

[robfisher]

I did the inside of a Kenskill with the knotty pine beadboard strips from Home Depot. Went on easy with glue and a small brad gun. The whole inside took just an evening after work.

[CARS]

I did the inside of a Kenskill with the knotty pine beadboard strips from Home Depot. Went on easy with glue and a small brad gun. The whole inside took just an evening after work.

Could you post a picture?

[robfisher]

Sorry, in a computer crash I lost most of my build pictures. The strips come about 3 inches wide by 1/4 in thick. After the plywood roof was on, I started at the back of the cabin, glueing each board and firing some small brads to hold it till the glue dried. Moved forward one board at a time until I got near the bottom of the front closet where it could no longer be seen. Then I trimed out with some small, flexable cove molding.
I'm not much of a wood worker but this was really easy to do. Like I said, it was a one evening job.

[aggie79]

If you can imagine the reverse of this (the lid part), I used cedar t&g wainscot strips from the BORG to build my tongue box. Each strip was ~ 1/4" thick x 3" wide x 6' or 8' long.