I want to fit Shocks to my axle/frame

[Kody]

Hi guys,
I want to fit shocks to my axle/frame on the TD. I'm told that fitting shocks makes a huge difference to handling and to the ride. The best time to fit them is now during the assembly and welding of the frame. What size shocks do I need? What is the best position to fit them and what is the best or acceptable angle to mount them? I don't think I can fit them in a true vertical position. How much difference is there in performance with relatively short length (about 12") shocks compared to longer ones? Looking at my drawings, I can fit 12" shocks without too much trouble at an angle from vertical of 30 degrees. What kind of shocks would be best to use? Any info will be most appreciated.
thanks heaps

Kody

[angib]

Even up to 45 degrees, shocks will still work, though not as well as vertical. Much more than that and the effectiveness drops off a lot.

It looks like Monroe RV shocks go down to 10" long: http://www.monroeheavyduty.com/products ... t_kits.asp

[Gage]

Here's a couple of pictures showing what I did. Monroe also makes and sells the bracket to attach the shock to the axle at the spring.

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[Lgboro]

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I couldn't get mine in the optimal position. My tear tows really well but I can't say if it is shocks or balance, etc. It did change the handling of the empty trailer before I added the tear by a good bit to the positive.

[48Rob]

Kody,

I'm not an engineer, or expert, but I do have an opinion...

Shocks work very well for some vehicles.
Not all vehicles need them.
If a vehicle rides/handles poorly because it does not have them, it has either been designed to carry a wide range of weights, or the builder didn't fit it with a proper suspension to fit the build.

To elaborate;
If a vehicle, say a car, has been designed to carry 4 passengers and cargo, the suspension must be able to carry 4 passengers and cargo just as comfortably as when there is no cargo and just one driver.
So, the suspension (springs) have to be able to handle both extremes.
They must be heavy duty enough to hold up the max. Weight, so the springs/suspension are much stiffer than they would be if the car were only ever to carry one person.
In this case, shocks are needed to keep the springs/suspension from bouncing up and down.

In the case of a teardrop or tiny trailer, if the builder calculates the finished weight and chooses a suspension setup that is neither too much, nor too little, the trailer will ride/handle very well without shocks.

If the builder blindly chooses whatever springs/suspension with little or no regard to the finished weight and needs of the trailer, shocks may be a necessary afterthought to correct an issue.

I don't mean this in a way that is derogatory to builders who have shocks, but rather am trying to explain how if you take the time to match your choice of components to the finished build, you may be able to avoid the need.
Most trailer parts companies offer a limited range of "weights" for trailer suspensions.
The red trailers are an example; they come with an axle and springs with a certain weight rating.
If you decide to build a trailer using one of these, you get what they give you.

Some spring sets can be adjusted by removing a leaf.
Some torsion springs can be ordered at a custom weight rating.

The point of this post is to offer an alternative.
You don't have to settle for a poor ride that requires the addition of shock absorbers if you know what the finished weight will be and choose components that all work together.

Rob

[Lgboro]

I know I spent the time to balance all the issues necessary to built the best handling trailer I could afford and build. I'm have no doubt that Gage and others have done the same. If shocks only purpose is to reduce bouncing then they are worth the little added weight and expense in my opinion. On my bare frame I was amazed at the positive difference in the way my bare frame trailer towed. On the other hand, some may not see the importance of maximizing the best towing tear and be satisfied with one they can get from Point A to Point B safely. For me I want the best towing trailer I can build.

[oicu812]

In my opinion the closer your springs are matched to the correct weight of the trailer the more you will need shocks and the ride and handling will be much better.
Most trailers have to much spring because we use utility trailers and the springs have a small window or to put it another way not very progressive spring rate. If I was to use a leaf spring I would use a mono spring matched to the weight with a good set of gas shocks. The length of the shock is distance between the mounts plus the spring travel. If you don't need shocks your springs are probably to stiff or over capacity. Mount them in the arch of travel, shackle in the back the arch is back and up so back side of axel.

[Rainier70]

I can't tell from the pictures, so I have a dumb "girl" question. Is it best to mount the shocks in front of the axle or behind? What is the best angle? As vertical as possible? Thanks!

[Vedette]

In case you do decide to install shocks. Remember they don't do anything if they are mounted at more than 30 degrees. They can be mounted straight up and down....but I have found for best performance to mount them between 20 and 30 degrees off vertical (25 degrees).
Good Luck with your build.
Brian

[Kody]

I finally managed to find some shocks. They are now fully installed and I am able to alter the mounting angle from 20 degrees to 23 degrees or 27 degrees. I will post some photos as soon as everything here has settled down. We now have the phone on, the submersible water pump is working perfectly, the water tank is full, the tradies are coming over to replace half the ceiling in our bedroom and life is great once again. Well it is except for just one small thing (?). The pump in our sewage treatment plant has now died completely dead. I have to siphon the grey water out from the tank onto the ground with a hose every second day. NO!! I don't suck on the end of the hose!
The plumber/service man is coming over on Wednesday to install a new pump if he can obtain one.
The tank overflowed (YUCK) and this had made "things" very awkward.
We each finished up having a shower under the hose (cold water) at the side of the house near the front. It is a great blessing to have 26 acres of forest and live near the middle of it. I hope to have all the promised photos posted tomorrow.
Regardless of all the trauma and problems we have had, I can truly say, it is very well with my soul.

Kody

[91kuhndog]

Hey folks, I have built quite a few trailers over the years and the posts above are an excellant information source. I might add one thing I do when I build my BBQ smoker trailers to keep from bouncing them all over the highway. 1.) I use the longest, flatest springs I can find...I have a local source where I get 1250# 32" springs... 2.) I then add shocks to finish off the ride and keep the trailer in contact with the road. The shocks I found to work really good are for a golf cart... I buy them off ebay and you can pick from several mount types. A pair of new shocks will set you back about $75 and I use them because they offer a limited amount of travel and you dont get much travel out of leaf springs. 3.) shock alignment is key, I believe Brian said it in his post, I set all my shocks up on a 25-30* angle as to preserve a good ride. Just my two-cents!

[danlott]

From the pictures I have seen the shocks have been both mounted leaning forward and leaning rearwards. What is the best for a trailer installation?

Dan

[Gage]

Look at who posted the pictures and go frome there. By the way, how are they located on the rear axle of your car? Think about it.

[Shadow Catcher]

I don't think it makes a huge difference. When I was trying to come up with an airshock set up I looked at Airstream which uses a Dexter axle and shocks.