temputure for fiberglassing.

[NathanL]

If you are fiberglassing with epoxy it will depend on what hardener you use either a fast or slow and it will list the tempeartures it can be used at. Normally slow will work up to about 90F and then you have to get extra slow or tropical harderner and fast can be used down to about 60F I believe.

If using polyester you can add more or less harderner depending on the temp to get it to kick off right.

[Dale M.]

For polyester warmer is better.... I personally don't like even being out side in under 60° weather and trying to work "glass"... its a thing about ventilation.... Working in a inclosed heated shop will lead to breathing fumes/vapor off-gassing from resins and leads to serious respiratory distress or infections..... Been there "ONCE" and never again.... Its sort of on par with arc welding without a helmet.....

Dale

[crttaz]

I know if your are using typical car/boat fiberglass and the sun goes behind a house causing shade where you are working, the resin won't kick over.

The exact opposite can happen and things start smoking.

[Kody]

Gu'day Slow
I did some research thru the web on temperatures for using fiberglass and resin. It is very much preferred to use the resin with the temperature between 60F and 80F. Any colder than 60F and the resin will take forever to cure or not at all. The humidity is also important and it should be below 60%. The resin used for these temperatures is Polyester Resin. Epoxy is not quite as badly affected but it is sill not good to use in cold weather. If you intend to lay more than one layer of glass cloth, you will find a laminating polyester resin will be best to use. This resin cures but has a sticky surface that stays sticky. A second or final layer of glass cloth can then be applied and now a WAXED resin must be used as the final coat. The wax in the resin floats to the surface as the resin cures and SEALS OFF the air from the resin. By sealing off the air from the resin, the resin will cure to a hard and non sticky surface. To apply more resin, the wax must be removed by washing with a solvent first. If the weather/day is sunny and the temp is 60F, the resin can be applied in the garage/shed/workshop and if possible, take the part outside into the sun. The UV in the sunlight will start the polyester resin to cure and it will cure much faster. Do not add more hardener to the resin in the hope it will cure. Adding more hardener can result is a weaker resin and make the resin brittle. Hope this has helped you. If you need more info, send me a message or e-mail me with any questions you may have.

Kody

[Dale M.]

You might get away with small project in enclosed space, but if it were me ...NOT......

I have restored two fiberglass dune buggies and done some boat work (restored 16 ft FG sailboat) .... And done work on others buggies and "glass" items for friends and for profit, and one thing I will not do is work in enclosed space.... I know of at lease one person in fiber glass business who died from Emphysema and others that have respiratory issues and I will not take the risk.... I have lived to the age of 68 and in pretty much good health with all my fingers and toes and no broken bones by pretty much following the warnings on packaging about ventilation and other health threatening issues....

http://www.mydune-buggy.com/gallery/index.php?cat=10002

If you want to know about fiberglass work there are many sites on I-net the can instruct you on how to do laminating and finishing resins (waxed) ... Mixing the resins ( temperature vs amount catalysis) and finish sanding and prep for paint....

Remember polyester resin once it cures is hard to remove from clothes, floor, work bench and anything else its on.... All tools should be considered disposable (brushes, squeegees, rollers, mix pots and stir sticks (keep can of acetone handy as it will dissolve resin BEFORE it is fully cured) . When resins starts to turn in to jello in mix pot you are done, quit trying to work with it.......When sanding use a dusk mask or better yet wet sand to prevent dust issues....

A lot more could be written, but its all out there on I-net for anyone who wished to research it....

Dale

[Miriam C.]

Don't give up too easy. You might get a couple of days when it is above 50* and with your lack of humidity---you just never know...WY has weird weather all the time. Some information for you. Read it all. Some of the information may require other research. You might be able to get the surface of your project warm, work the epoxy in a heated space and then vacate until it is set up. Might have to work different sides on different days...

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/cold-temperature-bonding/

[Miriam C.]

Take it inside. Won't be too much odor if you close off the room and do the deed quickly. Yes I did too!

[WesGrimes]

Leave the closed can of resin and the part inside to warm up for a few hours, then take them out and quickly lay up the resin. The temp of the resin and parts is more important than the ambient air temp.