Tackling a 45ft cargo conversion

[cargoconvert2]

Hey everyone, my first post.

I cannot tell you how happy I was to find this place.

Let me first explain my plan:

I bought 16 acres of vacant land on which I would like to park, permanently, a 45ft converted cargo trailer which will serve like a cabin. It is 45ft long by 102" wide and inside it is 101" wide by 108" tall. Because I do not intend to move this giant around - my building plan is a bit different.

My plan is in no shape or form final and is based on many assumptions so please chime in with ANY remarks or suggestions as well as corrections:

General floor plan: I will make two bedrooms, bathroom with tub, and an open kitchen and living room as you can see from the image layout:
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh27 ... n/45x8.gif

Floor: I believe that these come with pressure treated plywood so I will want to replace it with regular OSB. I will also insulate the floors between the i-beams and possibly also connect another layer of plywood underneath the i-beams - to prevent rodents and what not from getting into the insulation as well as minimizing air leaks. I will install hardwood floors.

Framing: I will frame the inside with 2x4s making a 'skeleton' on the inside - going right up against the aluminum. Basically I will frame as if I am framing a small cabin..

Insulation: batts for the walls and floor. For the ceiling I will use rigid foam sheets.

windows: because of the inner frame I want to install regular double hung windows. I will make cuts and seal with tyvk flashing around - covering the aluminum and wood. In my layout you can see two huge windows in the living room. These will be to huge pieces of glass and will serve as a picture window.

Entry door: The roll up door will be welded and I will make a regular door opening on the side.

Electricity: full solar system with inverter, battery bank, and so on.

Plumbing: I will create a rain collection system that will provide non-drinking water in the cabin through an RV pump. I will also install a 1pint flush toilet that will empty into an outside compost chamber (not part of the trailer but outside). The greywater will empty into a 275g holding tank that will also be on the ground. I will install a 20" gas range for cooking that will be run off a small propane tank. Also, I will install those propane water heater for the shower.

Heating: An antique wood burning stove.

Inside finish: wood strips will line everything to give it a nice cabin look.

Outside siding: Again wood siding - hopefully live edge.

This is it for the most part. Questions:

1. I will see it next for the first time before I buy it. Will the walls and ceilings be covered with plywood?
2. should I attach my inner 2x4 frame to the aluminum?
3. should I put a vapor barrier between the aluminum and wood?
4. is there another layer of steel/sheating under the floor i beams?
5. can I cut the holes in the aluminum with an angle grinder? is there a better (easier) tool to use?
6. Can I keep the propane tank inside? (it will be one of those bbq sizes)
7. can I save on 2x4s and just use 4x4s but only a lot less just where the windows and doors are?

I am sure to have many more questions soon.

I appreciate any help!

Thanks

[mezmo]

Hi Cargoconvert2,

Welcome to the forum ! They've a lot of good ideas here in general
and in the CT section too.

One suggestion I'd like to give for consideration, is to look at some
floorplans of 8-wide house trailers - mobile homes of the 1940s-1950s-early1960s.
The sizes are close to yours and you could get some ideas for efficient use
of space. Utilizing built-in furniture and storage as they did could make
your unit more comfortable and easier to live in. E.g. a couple of Murphy
beds could give you more daytime room with fold-down standard beds
for sleeping. Built-in cabinets, dressers and closets can be done economically
and efficiently. Unless you are going for heavy insulation [foams would be the
best r-values per thickness] you may want to rethink using 2x4 framing. Smaller
dimensions would work and save some precious inches of space - especially width
Your trailer as is already has sufficient structure. Just frame around any openings
you make and use enough other framing as needed for attaching interior finishings
and fittings.

I just came across this blog that has some info on them.

http://portablelevittown.blogspot.com/p ... me-45.html

And this is a great pictoral gallery of them from "the beginning" up to the
1970s, after which they became too 'house-like'.

http://www.allmanufacturedhomes.com/htm ... _homes.htm

[Note: The CDs of old ads and brochures and info on them that you can get through a link
at the upper left of the initial page are really great and reasonable in cost.
They'd be a huge mine of info on this, especially the ones of/with the 'Manuals'
or 'yearbook' type things included.]

And here is a link to info on the Ultimate American House Trailer of the 1940s and
1950s, up to @ 1961 when they ceased production. The Spartan Trailer Coach, one
of America's best industrial products, ever. All aluminum structure [except chassis]
and gorgeous wood panel interiors and great design. Iconic. [Can you tell I like them ?]

http://www.spartantrailer.com/

[Also Google Image "Spartan Trailers" to see some pics of them in all the conditions
and permutations etc. now available to be seen.]

Happy looking, planning and building.

Cheers,
Norm/mezmo

[cargoconvert2]

Funny you mention utilizing space - I was just thinking about it yesterday. That is a great tip!

My roof build will guide my inner frame but I am still to figure out a roof for this thing... Reasons I want a roof:
1. rain collection
2. over hang to extend life of wood siding
3. improve the aluminum roofs

My main issue is the rain collection.... I am breaking my brains on trying to find a way to avoid building a roof over but collect rain water. If I can avoid the roof I can avoid a 2x4 frame - better.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Absolutely a pool of info in those sites. Thank you!

[capy235]

CC2

Your proposed floor plan looks much like the 8 x 45 mobile home my parents had when I was a kid. The only difference was the middle bedroom was a built in twin and it had a built in dresser, closet, and I think the wall furnce opposite the bed. For your back bedroom suggest turning bed 90 degrees to make it easier to make the bed.

A vapor barrior would be on the inside of the wood studs not between wood and alum.

Most cargo trailers, by the time they are sold for non trucking use are pretty shot. Use caution when purchasing. Often the cost of an older mobile is much more advantageous. But I sure like the idea of the conversions. Our military has been converting ocean cargo containers for years for housing and there are several web sites devoted to that. Once you add a roff and exterior siding it again raises the why not just build a trailer from the ground up. Lots of frames from torn down mobile homes available for the price of the scrap steel.

[cargoconvert2]

Thanks for the vapor barrier clear up!
I didn't put the closet and cabinets yet in the floor plan..

My original plan was to build a tiny house on a flat bed trailer. You make lofts for bedrooms. Anyway, it is very hard to find a used one that is long enough (I wanted a 26ft minimum) and that can carry the weight. Most are with duel 3,500lbs axles. Some are with 5k axles but are much more expensive and even still - might not be enough to carry the weight.

So for $1,500 this CT, which is has no water leaks, is a bargain in my book.

Not to mention the added advantage of having a 'dried-in' structure from day one which saves me work.

[rusty63]

Just my 2c - leave the floor where it is, lay down a layer or two of foam & then lay another layer of ply over the top. Why go thru all the effort to remove the floor?