They have a 10 inch throw, are 12vdc, and have a dynamic load rating of 100 lbs. (500 lbs static). I might just have to incorporate one or two of these into the hatch build. After all they were free! They were used as poor man’s valve actuators by the previous engineer, and the current engineer wants nothing to do with them. Bottom line, Dave was told to scrap a bunch of them, all in fine working order.
Skip to the bottom for router guide collar stuff, if you are not interested in seeing me hang plastic sheeting in the loft.
Another trip to Ho-de-po. $104 for the big roll of heavy 6 mil plastic sheeting (totaling 57+ lbs).
Brought a bunch of cardboard with me and cut it into crude strips with the razor knife. These will be used as tack strips to reinforce the staples and prevent the staple tacker from damaging the plastic sheeting during installation.
After moving everything away from the wall and reorganizing a few things, I got the first wall up. Notice the use of the tack strips along the header beam and around the window framing. Also, note the use of blue tape to seal around the windows.
(I forgot to take the pic before starting to move stuff back into place.) Note the big roll of plastic down by the end wall.
Along the bottom I used whatever scrap or spare wood that Karl had laying around as weights to hold the sheet to the floor. If need be, we can lift the sheets up and/or slice an access opening (that can be taped up after) in order to get to Karl’s stored items.
That was Wednesday. On Thursday I moved a bunch more stuff, reorganized some of Karl’s stuff in the north crawl space so that we can get to it easier in a pinch, pulled my supply shelf away from the wall enough, and did the second side wall.
Rather than fight one big sheet, and taking into consideration that I didn’t want to have to move the floor/cradle set up for ladder access to the ceiling, I opted to do the end wall and half of the ceiling in one sheet, then finish the other half of the ceiling and the drape wall with a separate sheet (…well, at least the half of the half of the loft that I am encasing).
So I measured carefully, added a little extra, and cut to length. Done for the night.
Yesterday (Friday) I fed the folded sheet up over the hoist beam (rather than closing the beam off).
Then I spread the sheet out along the beam, which really helped to support the weight of the plastic while I was working on the end wall.
I started along the side corner leaving just a small overlap to the side wall, then tacked off the bottom sill. You can see where I have started to tack off over and under the big window, too.
At the first ceiling joist there was nothing between it and the end wall siding to tack to, so what I found to be easier was to tack to the highest horizontal rail under the ceiling, taking most of the weight, then I came back and tacked up into the underside of the ceiling joist.
Here I have started to pull the ceiling portion tight over the hoist beam.
It was about this time that I realized that I should have centered the sheet on the wall leaving a bigger overlap in the first corner. The 1 inch was enough up the vertical corner, but fell a bit short along the long north wall to ceiling joint. Should have known that from all of the roof skinning advice that I have read here, “overlap both sides and trim excess later”. So I had to tug and pull it a bit askew to get some overlap over my supply shelf, and I will probably have to tape some extra filler bits in later, but the other side has plenty of overlap and won’t be a problem.
Here is the end wall with all of the windows cut out, but not taped yet.
And that’s about where I ran out of steam.
Biziedizie asked for more details on the router guide collar set up, so I mocked up a few pic’s.
None of my routers were supported by the mfg’s or aftermarket (or at least they are no longer supported) when it comes to adapting guide collars. So I went ahead and bought the available adapter plate and figured I could add the necessary holes. After carefully measuring the radius and center to center dimensions of the bolt pattern on my Dad’s plunge router shoe (it has a symmetrical pattern, whereas the Ryobis are non-symmetrical), I took the dim’s to work and laid out a drawing with both radial and axial dimensions. That way once the center was located in the mill, we could use either the rotary indexing table or the linear digital readouts to locate, drill, and counter sink the holes. Actually, I passed this on to Dave and he whipped it out during lunch.
The gray tinted holes are the new ones.
The guide collar set comes with a centering tool (…actually, it comes with two; one for 1/4 inch collets and one for 1/2 inch collets, not shown), and the adapter plate fit perfectly.
Here is a better (?) pic of the brass guide collar and lock nut that secures the collar to the adapter plate.
After removing the bit, installing the collar and nut loosely, and using the centering tool to locate the collar, I tightened the nut and reinstalled the bit.
Demonstrating height adjustment with the collar.
In these next three shots you can see where I have set a scrap piece of 1x (3/4 thk) stock (representing my wall blocking depth of cut) on top of a scrap of the 5mm underlayment (representing my preferred template material), plus another bit of 5mm on the right. Obviously, I will have to turn the height of the collar down in the lathe to match the thickness of my template.
Flush.
A little deep.
A little shallow.
Hope that helps explain it better, and you can see a perfect example of why I keep harping on the fact that everything takes longer than you think it should, even when you think you have “all of the tools and materials needed”.
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