Solar Panel Kit with Controller

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I hate to beat a dead horse, but I'm upping my electrical capacity for this season. Got a heck of a deal on two group 27 Interstate Deep Cycle batteries (I know a guy who knows a guy) and I want to start soaking up the suns glorious rays.

I want a basic setup that won't break the bank, but I also don't want to waste my money on something that will barely trickle charge a cell phone.

I've read stuff all over the forum about Morningstar charge controllers, which it appears is the way to go.

Well, I stumbled across a 140W kit on fleabay, for $289 (shipped). Comes with a Morningstar SS-10 charge controller, 140W panel, Z-brackets, and 30' of MC4 cable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Kit-14 ... 51a7ddeedb

Does this seem legit? Comments are appreciated. School me.

[bdosborn]

That's not a bad bundle price, especially with the free shipping. It's way more panel than you need, 80 watts would probably do you just fine. BUT, for a one stop deal, I couldn't find anything on the web right now that beats it.

Bruce

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Thanks Bruce!

I was looking around and doing some research, and I thought it seemed like a decent deal. I'll post up a review once I get to test it.

On the SunSaver - I will obviously have the battery leads connected, and the solar panel connected, but what are the "load" terminals for? Is that just if I need the power right away instead of storing it using the batteries?

[bdosborn]

The Sunsaver will disconnect the load terminals when the battery voltage drops to 11.5 volts. It automatically reconnects when the battery is as 12.5 volts. It's limited to the rating of the controller or 10 amps in your case. Its designed to prevent loads from totally discharging the battery and ruining it. I've never been able to use it as 10 amps just isn't enough for me. However, it might be nice to feed stuff from the load terminal that you might fall asleep and leave on.

Sunsaver Manual

Bruce

[Guy]

Just noticed this is a polycrystalline panel and not a monocrystalline one. Is the debate on the relative efficiency of these panels still raging?

[Lgboro]

My 80 watt system on my current tear with just a 55ah battery keeps my lights,fans, radio and/or television going with ease. On a 5 week trip this past summer I never plugged in and my small battery never got below 70%. It only takes a few hours sun to bring the battery back to 100%. (all led lights and computer fans controlled with pwm dimmer controllers) Plan on adding a refrigerator in my next build so I have purchased 2 100 watt panels and a 20 watt solar controller and planning a larger battery system to accommodate the frig.

[bdosborn]

Just noticed this is a polycrystalline panel and not a monocrystalline one. Is the debate on the relative efficiency of these panels still raging?

Nope, watts is watts. Higher efficiency just means the panel takes up less space and costs more.

Bruce

[eamarquardt]

The Sunsaver will disconnect the load terminals when the battery voltage drops to 11.5 volts. It automatically reconnects when the battery is as 12.5 volts. It's limited to the rating of the controller or 10 amps in your case. Its designed to prevent loads from totally discharging the battery and ruining it. I've never been able to use it as 10 amps just isn't enough for me. However, it might be nice to feed stuff from the load terminal that you might fall asleep and leave on. A viable approach as one is unlikely to leave a high load device on unattended. -Gus-

Sunsaver Manual

Bruce

If one wanted to draw more than the controllers max load limit from one's battery bank and still use the low voltage protection afforded by the Morningstar controller (or any controller with a similar feature) the load terminals could be wired to a relay and the relay could carry the increased current. When the battery voltage drops below the limit, the relay would drop out and disconnect the battery from the load. Using a relay would cost a couple of amp hours a day (more or less depending upon the relay chosen).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pk-12V-Bosch-S ... 9475105%26

Cheers,

Gus

[bdosborn]

I went down that road, I was considering using a Morningstar Relay driver to control a latching relay. There would be virtually no amp-hr overhead with that approach. However, I found that I'm so obsessive about watching the battery meter that I'm a self performing battery disconnect.

Bruce

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Bruce, forgive my ignorance, but can you shed some light on the Sunsaver hookup. I read through the manual, but am still unsure of the "load" connection.

Do I just tie the Sunsaver in through the battery connection and leave the "load" unconnected?



Or do I wire from the batteries, to the Sunsaver, and then hook the WFCO into the "load terminals?



Am I getting greedy, trying to have the option of charging 3 different ways?

[Bogo]

Just noticed this is a polycrystalline panel and not a monocrystalline one. Is the debate on the relative efficiency of these panels still raging?

Nope, watts is watts. Higher efficiency just means the panel takes up less space and costs more.

Bruce

Yep. They list the size of the panel in the ad. Dimensions (inches): 57.72 x 26.13 x 1.375. Will that work for you?

The Sunsaver will disconnect the load terminals when the battery voltage drops to 11.5 volts. It automatically reconnects when the battery is as 12.5 volts. It's limited to the rating of the controller or 10 amps in your case. Its designed to prevent loads from totally discharging the battery and ruining it. I've never been able to use it as 10 amps just isn't enough for me. However, it might be nice to feed stuff from the load terminal that you might fall asleep and leave on. A viable approach as one is unlikely to leave a high load device on unattended. -Gus-

Sunsaver Manual

Bruce

If one wanted to draw more than the controllers max load limit from one's battery bank and still use the low voltage protection afforded by the Morningstar controller (or any controller with a similar feature) the load terminals could be wired to a relay and the relay could carry the increased current. When the battery voltage drops below the limit, the relay would drop out and disconnect the battery from the load. Using a relay would cost a couple of amp hours a day (more or less depending upon the relay chosen).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pk-12V-Bosch-S ... 9475105%26

Cheers,

Gus

Solidstate relays draw very little power. You need to match the control and load voltages. They do cost more and require heatsinks.

This is an example of a 40Amp one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-GOLD- ... 19d6900fec
Note: it will require a heatsink to operate at that Amp load. I've seen heatsinks over at Amazon, but don't have time to look now. Digikey and Mouser handle them, but you will be paying full price there.

[bdosborn]

Bruce, forgive my ignorance, but can you shed some light on the Sunsaver hookup. I read through the manual, but am still unsure of the "load" connection.

Do I just tie the Sunsaver in through the battery connection and leave the "load" unconnected?

Or do I wire from the batteries, to the Sunsaver, and then hook the WFCO into the "load terminals?


Am I getting greedy, trying to have the option of charging 3 different ways?

Your first diagram is one of the ways to wire it - without any loads on the "Load" terminals. BUT, you need a 15 amp fuse between the controller and the battery . You're not required to have a fuse on the PV panel since you only have one panel and the panel short circuit current is less than the wire is rated for, assuming you use a #12 wire. (1.21 gigawatts is a pretty big panel though )


The second diagram won't work right. You would need to remove the load wire from the fuse on the WFCO and wire it directly to the "load" terminal. See my comments on your wiring diagram.



You can charge from any combination of the three sources with this arrangement. You can plug in, charge from the vehicle and charge from the PV panel all at the same time. Or just charge from the PV panels, it's all automatic.

Bruce

P.S. Nothing says you *have* to use the "load" terminals, its just might be nice to rig a "oops I fell asleep with the TV on" circuit.

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Your first diagram is one of the ways to wire it - without any loads on the "Load" terminals. BUT, you need a 15 amp fuse between the controller and the battery . You're not required to have a fuse on the PV panel since you only have one panel and the panel short circuit current is less than the wire is rated for, assuming you use a #12 wire. (1.21 gigawatts is a pretty big panel though )

As always, you're a big help Bruce! I'll stick with the first diagram (with fuses), because KISS is good! The first one will also be alright charging from any source, correct?


It's a special panel, which will only generate 1.21 gigawatts as the teardrop reaches 88mph.

[bdosborn]

I'll stick with the first diagram (with fuses), because KISS is good! The first one will also be alright charging from any source, correct?

Yup, make sure and post some pics when you get it installed!

Bruce

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Awesome. Thanks again! Waiting on the stuff to arrive, but as soon as I can get it all hooked up I'll be sure to post my results.