7x16 Vee Nose Camper / Toy Hauler Conversion

[MTPockets]

Hello,

I've been lurking here for awhile admiring all of your conversion projects, and dreaming of some day starting my own project. That day has finally arrived as I've purchased a slightly used 7x16 trailer and can't wait to get started. I have a lot of ideas in my head, but I now have to get get serious about what I really want and need, and fit it all in. Progress will most likely be slow because of funds, time, or a combination of the two. We'll get started with a pic of the trailer on the trip home from Michigan.

MT Pockets

[lrrowe]

Welcome! Nice looking trailer.
You are going to have fun.

[Rocky5000100]

Trailer looks nice! Wasn't Look Trailers started by the former owner of another very reputable company? I forget which one.

[MTPockets]

Thanks!

I'm really excited to get started! I'm not sure about the owner of Look Trailers, but I'm happy with it. I think the first order of business will be a window or 2, and insulation. I think I'm going to go with vertical windows that fit between the wall "studs" so I don't need to cut any of them. I'm now reading all of the posts I can find on the pros and cons of the different insulating methods.

[Rainier70]

For used, the outside is in really good shape.

[bc toys]

My sales man told me that the owner of LOOK was the owner of HAULMARK that the have 2 factories 1 in Ga and 1 in Az Well hope you enjoy your convertion and hope you post pics as you do the work

[MTPockets]

Thanks Cindy, it's definitely in good condition. bc toys, that's interesting about the owner of LOOK. I will post pic as progress is made. I'm working up drawings now and trying to decide what I want and need.

[MTPockets]

So I'm sitting here contemplating the insulation. No doubt that spray foam will be to costly for my budget, so I will most likely be using the rigid foam sheets cut to fit. Sealing the edges with Great Stuff spray foam for small gaps. Then taping the seams before putting the wood back on.

My question is, after sealing the gaps with the Great stuff, what would be wrong with applying an automotive spray on rustproofing to the back of the metal skin and then installing the rigid foam? The only thing I can see is that I won't be able to glue the rigid foam sheets to the outside skin, and the the seam tape would hold the sheets in place until the wood is re-installed. Does this sound like a worthy plan to those more experienced around here than I?

Here's a link to the rustoproofing I was looking at...There might be other brands..http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-15-oz-Black-Rubberized-Undercoating-Spray-Paint-248657/202097745

Thanks, MT Pockets

[MyYota85]

I just finished my insulation, I cut my insulation about a 1/4" to big and the foam slipped rite in. I used the cold foil Ac tape on some of the edges. No glue needed, rustoelom not needed imo?? Good luck on the build.

[Rainier70]

Spray your ribs if they are steel. The metal siding is usually aluminum and doesn't need it. Sometimes might be galvanized steel. If you can't tell, look on the manufacturers website or call them.

[MTPockets]

Thanks for the input, good tip on coating the ribs! I failed to mention this, but I was looking at it more for the reduced risk of condensation in the wall by coating the back of the siding, I wonder if it would help with this?. I'll have to check, but I believe it is aluminum.

[MtnDon]

Coating will not help with condensation

[MTPockets]

Not much happening on the trailer yet besides planning what I want, need, and the layout. I did however find a great deal on the very stove I was looking to buy on clearance in Cabela's bargain basement area. I plan to make a camp kitchen/grub box unit that can be used outside. I will design it to include this stove. I couldn't resist, it was 50% off ticket price of $149.00

[MTPockets]

Finally some forward movement. I started to remove the plywood inside to start insulating. I was unable to to completely remove the piece toward the back of the trailer because the ends were tucked behind the metal flashing in the corner which in turn was behind the metal trim molding around the rear door opening. The screws holding down the molding must be metric because none of torx bits that I had would fit to remove the screws. I guess the bright side is that I need to buy more tools

Not sure if this is standard practice with trailer manufacturers, but I discovered they put a foam type "paper" part way up the wall and it looks like it extends down and goes between the floor and trailer frame. The lower plywood was seal with a bead of caulk where it meets the floor. The good news is that for a used trailer, it looks good inside the walls with no rust or anything weird going on this far.

SAM_1701 by Gene, on Flickr

SAM_1703 by Gene, on Flickr

[rebapuck]

Since there will probably be condensation, will you leave the bottom perimeter free of Great Stuff?