how can i seal outside till i have money for truck bed liner

[Miriam C.]

Well I just got reminded that Rhino liner sticks to truck paint sooooooooooooooo Auto body clear should do it. Don't know how that works with wood though.

[parnold]

the body filler you talk about would that be Bondo

Yes.. I don't use Bondo brand (I don't like 3M) but same stuff.

Well I just got reminded that Rhino liner sticks to truck paint sooooooooooooooo Auto body clear should do it. Don't know how that works with wood though.

Automotive clear works well on wood. I garbage picked an oak table, sanded it down and clear coated it.. it's been 4 years since I did that.

[Ageless]

You don't want to see what happens when they apply Rhinoliner. You take yer brand new truck and they attack the bed with sanding disks. They have to rough up the surface to get adhesion

[afreegreek]

You don't want to see what happens when they apply Rhinoliner. You take yer brand new truck and they attack the bed with sanding disks. They have to rough up the surface to get adhesion

red scotch brite is the stuff most use to prep. that and a heavy wash with solvent to get rid of any nasties. but that's no different than for any other coating they will put on. anyway, it's just a scuffing and wont go through the clear unless they're a shop full of hacks.

[synaps3]

Coat with Poly resin (even the crap at Home Depot will work)... Fiberglass the edges to prevent splitting.

Coat with an acrylic enamel (as previously suggested).

will work great.

If you want a cheap, relatively durable finish, read through this: http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html. The same techniques and logic will apply to a trailer as a car. Bedliner is nice, but it's ridiculously expensive.

[Grid Runner Adventures]

so if i do a fiberglass on the joints and polyurethane resin the whole exterior of the camper i could get nice a nice white finish with rustoleum eh.

[parnold]

Fiberglass cloth or reinforcing tape on the seams adds strength, and lessens the likelihood of a crack. You wet the cloth or tape, apply it to the seams, then coat the whole thing with a layer of the polyester resin.

Polyester resin can be coated to 1/4 inch thick, so sand between each coat, and plan on at least three. Use an 80 grit sandpaper between each coating. I use a foam roller to apply my resin, but a paintbrush will work also, but with more lines. Each sanding doesn't have to be perfectly smooth, the idea is to cut down the top of the bumps and give the new coat something to bite into. If your looking for an extremely smooth finish, your final coat would then be sanded with 220 to 320 grit. Also if your going for extremely smooth you may want to add an extra coat to your tear so you don't accidently sand through.

[synaps3]

Like Paul said, plan on multiple coats. Poly Resin and Epoxy are both great waterproofers -- but they still will allow moisture through if immersed for long enough. That's what the enamel layer is for.

Think of the poly resin layer as a second line of defense / primer for whatever goes on top.

No matter what, I think you'd want to put a layer of SOMETHING on before you use bed liner or paint.

[dh]

Check out topsecrete coatings (sorry no link, I'm mobil tonight, but a google should bring it up) they have a 1 part epoxy that is UV stable and comes in 60+ colors. They said thinned 50% it will penetrate like CPES and 2nd coat will need no top coat. Also it self levels!

[dh]

I forgot, Topsecret is affordable too. $170 shipped for a gallon each of epoxy and thinner. Should only use half that

[parnold]

Personally I am scared of the 1k epoxy. I did a test with Sherwin Williams 1k epoxy, and the boards stayed sticky for three weeks. I'm guessing I put in on too thick, but I'm not willing to try it on my tear. I have a full gallon of white that I'll have to pay the recycling center to dispose of.

[steve smoot]

Fiberglass cloth or reinforcing tape on the seams adds strength, and lessens the likelihood of a crack. You wet the cloth or tape, apply it to the seams, then coat the whole thing with a layer of the polyester resin.

Polyester resin can be coated to 1/4 inch thick, so sand between each coat, and plan on at least three. Use an 80 grit sandpaper between each coating. I use a foam roller to apply my resin, but a paintbrush will work also, but with more lines. Each sanding doesn't have to be perfectly smooth, the idea is to cut down the top of the bumps and give the new coat something to bite into. If your looking for an extremely smooth finish, your final coat would then be sanded with 220 to 320 grit. Also if your going for extremely smooth you may want to add an extra coat to your tear so you don't accidently sand through.

Paul, you are the man...thanks for your advice...Steve

[dh]

Personally I am scared of the 1k epoxy. I did a test with Sherwin Williams 1k epoxy, and the boards stayed sticky for three weeks. I'm guessing I put in on too thick, but I'm not willing to try it on my tear. I have a full gallon of white that I'll have to pay the recycling center to dispose of.

Send it to me

We use it on our out door equipment at work. You have to thin it to get it thin enough. It is suposed to
go on thinner than a piece of paper.

Serinusely though, if you have some you want to
get rid of PM me.

[parnold]

I did two tests on some boards, I was going to submerge them in water after the epoxy dried to see how impervious it was. I reduced one batch by 10% as per the instructions, and the other batch by 25% to test it's penetration ability.

I brushed three coats on waiting about an hour between coats... as I said before, the boards were still sticky after about three weeks.

One of my reps was nice enough to donate a gallon of regular epoxy primer and activator to my project, I feel alot better about spraying this!

[parnold]

dh.. can you please edit your entry, it's screwing up the whole page, you have one very very long sentence!