Counter top

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby doug hodder » Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:41 pm

Not sheet metal, but I've done stainless in 2. Only had it sheared and 1 90 degree bend on them, rests on a ply sub base. I did a scuff treatment with a DA sander on it...Doug

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Postby Grid Runner Adventures » Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:55 pm

how thin of plywood could you get away with. ie its a camper and nothing heavy will be sitting on it anyways.. especially people heh
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Postby doug hodder » Sun Mar 14, 2010 10:33 pm

I would imagine fairly thin...don't think I'd go below 3/8 though. The top gets all it's strength from the 90. The ply gives support between the walls at that end. Doug
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Postby 2bits » Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:37 pm

There is this stuff called ironically: "Bartop". It is that stuff you see on countertops at bars and stuff. That is a super high traffic area and goes on thick. I lost all my dang bookmarks when I switched computers and I can't find the place again, but basically it is the stuff you put on countertops!
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Postby StPatron » Wed Mar 17, 2010 10:48 pm

Many companies that sell epoxy resins carry it under various names. RAKA has it in stock.
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Postby Wolffarmer » Wed Mar 17, 2010 11:16 pm

I built my counter top by gluing thin maple strips to 1/2 plywood, sanding the crap out of it to get them all level the finishing with several coats of W.H Khuan Table top finish I got over 20 years ago. ( can't find it any longer ) It has held up pretty good, as is the computer desk I built over 20 years ago. Dang Almost 25 years ago. If i was to do it again I would put at least 6 coats of sailed bowl oil on it. It is food safe and I made a bunch of cutting boards with that almost a year ago. I kept one and use it a lot and other than the expected knife marks ( less than I expected really ) and a lot of wet/damp cloth wipe downs has held up very well.

The 1/2 plywood is more than enough in mine as there is a support in the middle and i would imagine that in most builds all sides could be supported easily.
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Postby synaps3 » Thu Mar 18, 2010 12:07 pm

2bits wrote:There is this stuff called ironically: "Bartop". It is that stuff you see on countertops at bars and stuff. That is a super high traffic area and goes on thick. I lost all my dang bookmarks when I switched computers and I can't find the place again, but basically it is the stuff you put on countertops!


Here ya go:

http://www.uscomposites.com/kk121.html
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Postby Douglas Knudson » Wed Mar 24, 2010 9:26 am

I did my countertop and back splash with a translucent plastic used in the outdoor sign business with aluminum supports underneath. It can get scratched very easily and i'm sure it wouldn't like hot pans on it, but it shows well and is very light weight and can be back lit for effect!

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Postby H-Balm » Thu Oct 14, 2010 4:31 am

john wrote:Seeing as how the OP OK'ed slightly of topic posts, I thought I suggest another counter top choice.

On both of my builds I used prefinished hardwood flooring. Being that it is intended for floor use it is fairly durable.




Nice thoughts..... I didn't think about that one!
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Postby Lgboro » Thu Oct 14, 2010 8:46 pm

I have used Danco Danish Oil Finish on kitchen counters and even children's wooden toys in the past. Plan to use this on my counter tops in the tear when I get that far - so far I have used it on my floor in my build. Smells to high heavens until well cured but leaves a pleasant food safe medium sheen finish.
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Postby Lou Park » Fri Oct 15, 2010 7:09 pm

doug hodder wrote:Not sheet metal, but I've done stainless in 2. Only had it sheared and 1 90 degree bend on them, rests on a ply sub base. I did a scuff treatment with a DA sander on it...Doug

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Now that, I like.
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Postby Dusty82 » Sun Oct 31, 2010 11:56 pm

Just a suggestion: If you can afford the extra weight, you can often pick up mis-cut solid surface countertops at mid to high end countertop shops for a reasonable price. Look for a top that's just a bit oversize and have them cut it down to your measurements right there. I've seen people pick up solid surface countertops that way for 50-75% off, depending on how long the mis-cut has been hanging around the shop.
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Postby Lou Park » Mon Nov 01, 2010 6:37 am

Dusty82 wrote:Just a suggestion: If you can afford the extra weight, you can often pick up mis-cut solid surface countertops at mid to high end countertop shops for a reasonable price.


If you are lucky enough to have a Habitat for Humanity store near you, you can get any counter top you want for just a few bucks.
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Postby bobhenry » Mon Nov 01, 2010 7:06 am

Jst83 wrote::lol: This thread has taken a whole nuther turn, not that I mind lots of good ideas going on here for galley counter tops :thumbsup:


And who's fault was that the thread is "Counter top"
You did not say " Best ways to seal a wood galley counter"

So It's your fault ! You know we have enough trouble staying on topic even when we know what it is :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Postby Shadow Catcher » Mon Nov 01, 2010 12:36 pm

What ever you do seal the edges and make a seal of the edges. We had a problem with the water wanting to drain in behind the counter top.
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