Bracing question ... honeycomb?

[bigalpha]

I started my initial build design thread HERE.

You can see the proposed bracing in the pictures (it's the highlighted areas). Later on in the thread, I start to wonder about using cardboard honeycomb in the walls in lieu of bracing.

There will still need to be traditional bracing for the windows/door, right?
Where could I get some of that cardboard honeycomb stuff?


I'm thinking that the addition of the honeycomb will act just like a hollow-core door.

Ideas, suggestions?

[bobhenry]

used close cell foam board its a lot easier and quicker

[planovet]

use close cell foam board its a lot easier and quicker

And a better insulator..

[bigalpha]

Does closed cell foam board have the same strength and rigidity of a honeycomb structure? So, you'd just sandwich the cell foam board between the ply like below and call it a day?

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edit: is this the stuff you are talking about HERE? Seems like it would be much more expensive than honeycomb cardboard.

[Anthony J Grant]

Mr. Alpha

They are refering to pink or light blue foam board you can pick up at your neighborhood "Lows" or "Home Depot" A.K.A Big Blue Box or Big Orange Box. Be sure to Measure what your buying sizes can vary between Mfg.


Tony G

[bigalpha]

Oh, gotcha. So that foam board/insulation will provide a great deal of rigidity; I can minimize the amount of framing I'd need in the walls.

I'm still torn on what size framing to use.

[Nitetimes]

Oh, gotcha. So that foam board/insulation will provide a great deal of rigidity; I can minimize the amount of framing I'd need in the walls.

I'm still torn on what size framing to use.

The sides can be 1/2", 3/4" or whatever you like, some have used 2x2's.
It's entirely up to you and what you want.
I used a sheet of 3/4" ply and cut out the parts I didn't need and filled that with foam. Just a little easier than building the frame out of 1x material.

[bigalpha]

I keep hearing that it's a matter of preference. I guess what I'm trying to get at is what's the 'industry standard'?

For example, when building a house, you use 2x4 framing 16" apart.

When building a TT that's 5' wide, 8' long and 6' high; is there a particular 'industry standard' that keeps the TT stable but lightweight?

After reading through various build threads, I see some with 1x2's and 1x4's and the bracing isn't very abundant.

[Nitetimes]

I keep hearing that it's a matter of preference. I guess what I'm trying to get at is what's the 'industry standard'?

For example, when building a house, you use 2x4 framing 16" apart.

When building a TT that's 5' wide, 8' long and 6' high; is there a particular 'industry standard' that keeps the TT stable but lightweight?

After reading through various build threads, I see some with 1x2's and 1x4's and the bracing isn't very abundant.

That's pretty funny.
In this particular case 'standard' is whatever you feel like using that works.

[mikeschn]

I keep hearing that it's a matter of preference. I guess what I'm trying to get at is what's the 'industry standard'?

For example, when building a house, you use 2x4 framing 16" apart.

When building a TT that's 5' wide, 8' long and 6' high; is there a particular 'industry standard' that keeps the TT stable but lightweight?

After reading through various build threads, I see some with 1x2's and 1x4's and the bracing isn't very abundant.

Well there is not much of an industry standard, as there are not many industry teardrop builders.

Maybe you could ask Cary of Camp Inn.

But let me just throw out my 2 cents worth...

After building roughly half a dozen teardrops, and drawing up many more in CAD, I can suggest that spar spacing is roughly 12". A little tighter on the curves, like maybe 9". What one typically ends up doing though, is starting with certain features where one requires a spar, like the roof vent. Then one adds spars to achieve an even spacing.

As for the sidewalls, there is even less "industry standard" there. Solid side walls of 1/2" plywood are popular. And for those folks that build up with studs, and cover with thin sheathing, it's more like:
1) lay in some 3/4 x 1.5" studs for the door.
2) lay in some 3/4 x 1.5" studs for the windows
3) lay in some 3/4 x 1.5" studs for the galley counter and shelves.
4) lay in a perimeter of 3/4 x 1.5" for the ceiling, roof and spars
5) then if there are any big expanses left, put in a 3/4 x 1.5" stud for good measure.

Here's an example...



Here's another:



Mike...

[bobhenry]

Industry standard

[bobhenry]

Quit worrying if this is your 1st build you will build another and incorporate the steps you forgot or feel you may have muffed up on and the next will be even better. This is a learning experience. We promise we will not grade you.

[mikeschn]

here's another


And a few spars...


Mike...

[bigalpha]

bobhenry - I'm all about learning and making things better in the future. But, Since I'll be putting a significant amount of $ and time into this, I'd much rather get this (mostly) right the first time.

Mike- thanks for all the examples. That'll definitely help us make up our minds on how to frame this thing. I think we've definitely tried to overframe this thing. 2x2 are definitely overkill. 1x2 and 3/4x1 are definitely more in line here.

I think that framing a subfloor is probably a little overkill too.

[mikeschn]

I think that framing a subfloor is probably a little overkill too.

Framing a subfloor is good. It gives you something to drive your sidewall screws into.

and if you have a joint in the floor, the subfloor framing will keep it all together.

Mike...