
polyurethane resin
for less than the price of a quart of this:

epoxy.
What makes epoxy so much more expensive, and why should I use it over poly resin? Poly resin seems to do the exact same job to me...
Thanks,
Ok - I'll Chime in - the last two builds _ i used polyester resin instead of CPES and epoxy. The first was in 3/8 ply and it did real well. The second build I went to a thinner ply, 5mm luan. I fiberglassed All the joints and sealed the whole thing three thin coats of polyester resin. after about a year - it still looks great. My design is Winter Warrior, so the parts get movement every time I set up or take down - and I've camped in both extremes: hot and cold, with not a mention of bubbling or cracking!
Check out the build link below for more details
synaps3 wrote:Voids and cracks will get filled with bondo.
most delamination starts from an impact and grows over time from successive warm cool cycles.parnold wrote:Polyester resin is not 100% waterproof, which is a big reason boat places say not to use it. I plan on using polyester resin because I am going to paint my trailer with a quality automotive acrylic enamel. This will provide the 100% waterproofing that I need, as well as excellent uv protection.
I have made several speaker enclosures with polyester resin over wood, I have two teenage sons with stereo systems you can hear half a mile away. All that vibration and I have never had a delamination problem. I would suspect most delamination problems are really created by faulty installation such as laying the glass and trying to soak the resin through it instead of applying the glass over an existing wet surface, or not allowing the first coat enough time to cure/dry, thereby trapping solvents in the lower coat.
I will admit that I have only applied polyester resin over mdf and plywood, never over luan or hardwoods, so my current build may be a learning experience for me.
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