Jump start battery pack???

[Treeview]

I just got my truck, like this one:

http://stonerradiator.com/images/dsc00667.jpg

and its going camping! Right now its just a box.

Before I get it 12/110 wired I want to have power. I don't have the time to build up the onboard power before camping.

There are a myriad of briefcase jumper battery packs. I had one but the battery died.

What should I consider when I buy one? Brand? Storage capacity? Does it charge via 12/cigarette plug or do I have to use the inverter?

Thanks,

Tom

[Shadow Catcher]

Tom
You have not stated what you want to do with the 12V and would you not be better just getting a Deep cycle battery and charging it with the truck 12V system. The "power packs" usually don't have much.

[Treeview]

I haven't worked out the electrical demands right now. A light, charge the computer...thats about it.

The limitations of the jump pack are evident to me. The simplicity being able to grab and run are enticing though.

I realize that a battery has more power and that I could wire it to charge. That means more work and charge/discharge monitoring.

If I understand I can monitor the discharge with a multi-meter? Or do I need a full-on battery tester?

Charging...can I run appropriately sized wires from my main battery to this one and let it charge while I drive? Kind of like having the main and the aux. battery running in parallel. If its that simple I would consider. From what I've read I should have an isolator and etc. first. That brings me right back to the simpler jump pack...for now.

So...any help?

[parnold]

You can quite easily monitor the state of a battery with a digital multi-meter. There is a chart which is pointed to somewhere in the above in Rich's List (I think). Just remember when reading a battery it should be "at rest" for around 2 hours to get an accurate reading. This means not charged or discharged in 2 hours.

I have a permanent meter on my battery so at any given time I can glance and see the state of my battery.

If money is no object, go ahead and buy the biggest charger pack you can afford, but it seems like a waste of money to me. If you buy a quality deep cycle battery now, it will be something with proper maintenance will last you several years.

[Shadow Catcher]

Yes it can be charged using the vehicle battery system in parallel. But you do want to have a disconnect switch or solenoid and fuse/breaker in line so you do not discharge the starting battery. Quite frankly I would be willing to bet this would be less expensive than something with not many amp hours.
Taking a quick look for a cheap power pack you are looking at about 13 AH maybe for $50. from our friends at HF.

[Treeview]

I'm convinced!

Eventually I'll do the whole works so I may as well have a decent battery to start with. The wire, etc. will all be used.

This gives me another research project

I'm doing this a little backwards, I know. Buying a battery before I have any clue how much capacity I'll need could mean underbuying or, more likely, over buying. ON the other hand, I've never regretted have More Power [insert a Tim Allen-like sound here ]

Tom

[parnold]

I bought a 110 amp hour deep cycle.

My fantastic fan uses about 3 amps per hour on high, though I have never used it on high except to see how much power it used. My interior light uses about 1 amp per hour if I remember correctly, usually I have a small LED lantern that I hang from my ceiling instead of using the interior light.

Cell phone chargers don't use much juice, but charging my laptop drew about 7 amps.

If you are a power hungry type of guy, you can always add a 2nd battery at some point.

[Shadow Catcher]

Good on ya Tom
I had a battery fail and have moved up to a 150AH AGM NOT good on the budget. This is the time you start doing your home work and a couple of places to start are.
http://www.batteryfaq.org
http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm

The goal is to figure out what you will want in the future and then increase it by 50%
AND ask questions, we have all made mistakes and it is a bunch less expensive to learn from ours.

[pmowers]

...There are a myriad of briefcase jumper battery packs. I had one but the battery died.

What should I consider when I buy one? Brand? Storage capacity? Does it charge via 12/cigarette plug or do I have to use the inverter?

You need to look at the specs on the pack- My Stanley can be left plugged into the AC outlet but it warns against leaving it hooked up to a 12V source to charge.

[Treeview]

Update....

Sears had a sale over the weekend so I bought this one:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... Ready&eml=

I joined their membership 'club' and got a discount. My price out the door was $265 with sales tax. Now I'm sorta forced to move on the rest of the electrical installation!

Tom

[PcHistorian]

This is the link to my usage and explanation of the "Peak 300 amp" battery booster. I payed $30 for it. I tried it for my 4 cyl engine when the dome got left on, AND IT FAILED!@!!@#@$%#%#$%
So I guess adding it into the trailer equipment as a battery/ portable, is ok by me. Not much else good of it. Probably light LED's for a year. Van type swivel lights, for a day/night.
Has charge indicators, and an audible warning beeper if you want it activated. I don't know the total amp/hour rating of the battery though.
I can charge it by wall current or car lighter, through the charge port and it comes with both cables. I can also use the lighter charge cable to plug into the built in lighter outlet and run a radio or something.

https://sites.google.com/site/pchistorian/home/hobby/camping/elf-build#wire-12v-bat1
This also shows how I plan to hook it into the trailer power system, by using some old PC back plates, left over from adding in computer cards, then wrap them around the plastic posts used to restrain the jumper cable clamps, and have holes in them to screw down the eyelets for the out bound 12v. The cable clamps have a cut-off switch on the front too, so I can isolate this battery from the trailer if I want. Probably shouldn't charge the battery through the clamps/12volt trailer system, I should use the charge port on the front, and I'll use 120v to the trickle charger that came with it. (300 ma charger, 120 v, 8 hours) If I want to go portable I can take the clamp brackets off (I just made "U" shapes, not total wrapping") take it out of the "rake handle" brackets that keep it in place. (weight on the floor, top handle clipped in)

pictures here...
https://sites.google.com/site/pchistorian/home/hobby/camping/elf-build#wire-12v-bat1