Another foam standie...

[atahoekid]

I gotta agree with WW and Mezmo about using epoxy on the roof. The UV rays will cause problems. The clear will no longer be clear. There are applications where no cloth is used for stuff like table and bar tops but not sure if that helps in this case. If you do an internet search you might also find some epoxies that are supposed to be UV resistant but I've never used them and I've never heard any feedback about them good or bad.

[GPW]

Painting over the epoxy helps with the UV problem ...

[PcHistorian]

Well, that answers several of my questions and brings up a few more. I realize YOU are going to paint over the epoxy, but what value is it if that other guy with the nice wood grain and sticker, has the clear cloth coating if it isn't UV stable? Can you put a spar coating over it that has a UV filter in it? If I had to paint it anyway then there is no use to making the attempt, because I won't salvage the original shingle look.

Well, if it isn't viscous enough to soak into the shingle then it won't help, it'll just be a breakaway cap over the roof. Now the "make my own jig for aluminum sheeting" has a pretty cool ring to it. I hadn't considered that. I might have considered cutting regular shingles corner's off for the octagon look. But the tips still wouldn't have been interlocked to hold while towing. I should have gotten some pics at macro of that.

I have also hear of a faux slate that is really plastic solar panels. That might be pretty cool and functional. Plus I've heard of netting that looks like ivy but is actually solar cells. That might be nice while stationary, but wouldn't help the, "driving down the road," look / surface.

[Wobbly Wheels]

When you use epoxy on a bright (wood) finish, you do indeed overcoat it with varnish or urethane for UV. Those slate-look panels sound pretty slick - I'll have to look 'em up when I get home.

[PcHistorian]

https://www.facebook.com/DowPowerhouse
http://www.forbes.com/sites/uciliawang/ ... alifornia/

there's some links for standard "shingle solar panels."

[Wobbly Wheels]

^Those solar shingles look like an intriguing idea to use up any otherwise-unused square footage.

I managed to get two more panels done this weekend. Working my way around the trailer in 38" strips (the width of the cloth) is working really well. The panels are easy to handle and are pretty quick to lay up. I have enough panels hung now that I will start taping them together permanently this week (I'll put up some pics of that when I start). This week, I want to get the back panel and the two corners taped and sanded into a 'cap' and maybe get the next side panel bonded in as well. Next weekend, I should be able to get one or two more side panels done.
The boat I'm working on at the moment will be done in a week or so, so I can grab a bit of working time (and call it a summer holiday) between it and the next job. I'll be commuting on two ferries and about half a day to get to that one, so there will be no progress during that job. Not during the week while I'm away from home, anyway.
The Glacier is living up to it's name, but at least it's still 'advancing'....

[PcHistorian]

by "taping" you mean strips of glass cloth that will be glassed across the splits?

I've been using the wrappers from my (***'s) incontinent pads as a light weight substitute for glass cloth to repair cracked plastic stuff, like cooler trays, garbage can lids, and using oil based poly instead of the liquid glassing. works pretty good, so far.

I'm still struggling to "conserve" my current shingles. I put 50/50 oil based poly/mineral spirits on for a coat. Then tarred the ridge line and all the "FINISHING NAIL" holes. (I can't believe this guy went to that much trouble and used finishing nails for the shingles!?!?!?!)

sounds like my trailer. too many distractions to make much progress. I have a 12v motorcycle battery that fits between the studs, so that's the "heavy duty" battery now for my system. (estate sale.) So more "gathering of supplies for the build"

progress is progress. (don't look a gift "progress" in the mouth.)
lol

[Wobbly Wheels]

Finally starting to slow down from a busy summer. I have been barely able to keep up with the turnings of the Foamie world, never mind doing much work on the trailer, but I'm gradually getting back at it.

First, to jump back a couple months:

by "taping" you mean strips of glass cloth

Yup, exactly...that's what I'm starting on now.

First, a "D'Oh!" story I have to share...
When I put the forms in, I screwed them to the floor. I didn't tie them together and, once the three back panels were glassed, all the weight cantilevered out behind the form caused this:

All fixed now, but it's one of those things that seems obvious...after it happens.

So now that the back panel and the two rear corners are glassed, it's time to glass them together into a single solid cap. If I had more space to work, I would probably lay out all three on the ground and glass them as a unit like that, but the only space I can use that's big enough has a trailer sitting on it...
So with the panels screwed back onto the newly-adjusted forms, I screwed on some strips of 1/4" ply to hold the edges together while I shape and glue them.


Then I used a thin bladed pull saw to open up the gap a little bit to allow the foam to expand, added the foam and let it do its thing. It's been sanded smooth (no pic, but it still happened and the outside will get taped this afternoon.


While that was setting up, I glassed the next side panel in the sequence. There are only two side panels left to glass, plus the roof. Then the rest of the glassing gets done on the trailer rather than on the table.




Here's a pic that shows the effect of UV on epoxy.

The panel on the right has been sitting in the sun all summer without a tarp over it. The one on the left is a fresh layup. All the materials used are the same for both. The layup is still sound, but I will keep it covered from now on so it doesn't get any worse and start to deteriorate. From here it will begin to get brittle and delaminate, breaking off on little pieces and then turning chalky.
It's not there yet, so I'm going to soldier on rather than replace it - there will be another layer going on over the outside, followed soon after by fairing compound, then primer. In the meantime, I'll keep it tarped so it doesn't get any worse.

[eaglesdare]

is that spray foam you used inbetween the foam panels? if yes, why are you using that instead of gorilla glue? i am not asking to be rude, but i am curious if it is the foam spray.
looking good btw.

[Wobbly Wheels]

Yup, it's canned foam. Unlike you guys who are wrapping with canvas, most of the strength in my shell will come from the inner and outer layers of glass, so the foam is there mainly to hold the two a fixed distance apart. I don't need that joint to support the shell's weight, so it doesn't make sense for me to spend the extra on GG where it won't be needed.
Using the canned foam just replaces the foam removed by cutting the panels apart, rather than providing strength to the rejoined panels. That said, it is still a pretty good bond based on the panels I tested it on.

This is the same joint with the foam joint sanded:
[img]http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb363/Folder1966/IMG572.jpg?t=1347762058
[/img]

Then I mixed a batch of putty and applied it to seal the pores in the foam and level any remaining imperfections. The mix I'm using is about 10% cabosil (West 403) and the rest in microballoons. I use the same mix for a lightweight adhesive as well, hence the fibers. I'm putting it on and laying up glass over it while it's wet, so the harder-to-sand 403 in the mix isn't an issue because I won't have to sand it. On the plus side, it gives me a bit more bond strength as an adhesive.

Next was a single layer of 2" tape, cut from scrap material, then a layer of 10" tape cut over that. This is how it sits now with the epoxy working its chemical magic:


I think it's been a few pages since I mentioned it, but I'm always blown away by the ability to take a bunch of dissimilar (and essentially useless on their own) materials and combine them in such a way to make something that's perfectly tailored to the job it needs to do.
I guess that's why I still like fiberglassing after all this time working on boats. Most guys I started with tend to sub out those jobs now but the chemistry of it still gives me a kick.

[GPW]

Have to admit , Fiberglass is a wonderful covering for a Foamie ... Just a little more difficult for the inexperienced ! Looking Great W2 !!!!

[Wobbly Wheels]

Thx Glen.

Yeah, like everything there's a bit of a learning curve with epoxy.
It has its drawbacks but it's so versatile that it allows people to build things they wouldn't normally attempt. It's allowed people to bang a boat together in their garage that's every bit as robust as a production boat and is a perfect accompaniment to wood.

I've had a bit of practice, but seeing that others are getting similar results the first time out with lowly canvas and glue is pretty darn impressive.

[GPW]

W2, that “poor man’s Fiberglass” , canvas and glue is just a little more forgiving , and not quite as messy (water based) ... Worked for the Old Timers and on a gazillion canoes ... I can sure vouch for mine living outside for over a year now ... No leaks , no bugs , nuttin’ !!! ...Only problem is the HF trailer is turning a dull Pink ... Might have to spray a little new paint on there...

For the ultimate Strength though, Fiberglass is really the way to go .. From some FG experiments with model plane wings and model boats , I’d be temped to do some vacuum bagging , which produced some really Smooth results ... Doing individual panels like that would make it easy ...
If I only had a Big Shop ...

[Wobbly Wheels]

Yeah, the holy grail of any epoxy layup is to get the exact ratio of resin to cloth that you're looking for, kinda like chasing the stoic ratio in an engine build. Bagging (or more specifically, vacuum infusion) is the simplest way to get there from here.
It's good for providing a uniform clamping force, but if you are concerned about extracting as much excess resin as possible to get that 50/50 ratio, it's easier for most folks to do it with the conscientious use of a squeegee and slop bucket.
However...with fibers that are harder to wet out (like aramid), it's almost essential.

[GPW]

W2 , saw on a surfboard building video (You Tube) that the squeegee should make a “zipper” sound if the resin ratio was correct , smooth sound , still too much resin ... Too much resin was Bad ...