Wyoming Woody Teardrop Build (Completed: 6/22/2013)

[_Ryan_]

This last weekend was productive. I built the hatch!






Everything was going smoothly until I glued the first blocks across the ribs. Instead of marking my block locations on center, I marked to the top edge but ended up gluing and brad nailing them to the bottom... I went with it and it turned out fine for the spacing.


I'm not sure how many of you install your blocks without any offset. I would think a small dado (maybe 1/8") to hold them on each side of the rib would work instead of nails, but I thought that might be overkill and went with the offset and nails instead. As far as strength goes I'm not sure there is any difference. The hatch is very rigid and has minimal amount of twisting if forced. I am a happy camper!

[WhitneyK]

lookin' good! Lookin' Good

[KCStudly]

Nice. ... and another big milestone.

[Wolfgang92025]

sweet....

[PubUltraStar]

I really like your big window, and I may have to steal your idea. I think that this will add a ton of natural light inside. Where did you buy the window from?

[_Ryan_]

I really like your big window, and I may have to steal your idea. I think that this will add a ton of natural light inside. Where did you buy the window from?

Thanks! I found it through sheer luck while searching eBay. The window measures 12" x 40" and I was able to snag it for around $100. The ebay user I purchased it from was customrvwindows who is actually Callen Campers out of California. They have a wide variety and change on a regular basis, so if you are persistent you should be able find what you are looking for.

[_Ryan_]

I was able to do a few more things on the trailer.

I started stretching the 1/8" birch panel to the inside of the hatch.


Installed the front face of the drawer in the galley.


I also purchased a group 27 marine battery and tested the fit in the tongue box. I sould be able to use half for the battery and half for tools/chocks. Let the wiring begin!

[DMcCam]

You're doing a Fantastic job Ryan!!! Once you get the outer skinning done, you'll be in the home stretch soon.

All the Best,

Dave

[_Ryan_]

You're doing a Fantastic job Ryan!!! Once you get the outer skinning done, you'll be in the home stretch soon.

All the Best,

Dave

Thanks Dave!

Home stretch for sure! There has been so much progress recently I've been tripping over myself trying to get the pictures posted!

[_Ryan_]

More work done this past weekend. It's looking more an more like a Teardrop these days!

I installed all the cabinet pulls.




Then I finally glued the blocking to the walls/headliner/spars with PL Premium. Then I used a belt sander to make sure everything was nice and square. After this the roof is so strong I could probably walk across the spars.



Then I finally decided on my gas strut size and location and cut the proper recesses in the hatch sides to accommodate the recessed struts. I didn't make it clear earlier but I glued all the pieces of the hatch together except for the outside ribs which were just screwed into place. Once I decided on the strut location I unscrewed the outer ribs, cut out the recesses, then reattached and glued them together permanently. I also added an extra support on the inside which will help support the hatch against the pressure of the strut which will be mounted in the recess.


THen I glued the inside skin on the hatch. It took a lot of PL Premium as you can see.



I used a router to trim the skin.


After all this I fitted the hatch again. Here you can see where the struts will mount in the recess. There was a very slight spring back but it should be fixed when I attach the outside skin.

[_Ryan_]

After work this week I jumped head first into the wiring. I don't have any experience in this area so I will to the long lists of firsts on this project!

I used 14 gauge THHN wires throughout the entire trailer. They are colored red and black to help me keep hot and ground straight. I used clamps to hold the wires in their approximate location until I drilled any holes. Also It seems I have found a new use for an old racquetball grip...

Running the wires and cutting them to length.


I made a back plate for my cabin dome light.



I drilled from the edge of my roof down through the side walls to run the wiring. I then used the router to cut passages in the side of my wall blocking to access the holes, then glued the blocking in place.


Here you can see the wires as they exit out the other end of this hole from the roof and out to the porch light fixture and cabin light switch.

[KCStudly]

Looks like you are doing a fine job on your first attempt.

If you are using crimp connectors for the first time, make sure to use a quality brand crimping pliers and pull on each connection after crimping to make sure that it is secure.

If you are going to solder, make sure to work over a mat, scrap of wood, or some other disposable material so that dripping solder doesn't ruin your finish, and make sure that you have a safe place to put the iron so that it doesn't burn any of that super fine cabinetry that you worked so hard to make nice. Also, use flux remover to prevent future corrosion.

Sort of obvious advice, but doesn't hurt to mention.

[_Ryan_]

Thanks for the advice KC! I am planning on crimping all my splices.

Another issue I have been a thinking about is that my wiring runs through my walls and ceiling and if there is a need to fix some splice in there I will be out of luck. Running conduit to pull wire is not an option because some of the wire bends are too sharp.

My solution is to run individual runs to each light and splice them all together at my electrical box in the galley. This will require a bit more wiring but I will have piece of mind that I can fix a failed splice if I need to down the road.

[Junkboy999]

Fantastic work Rayn.


Best never to place any slices or a connector in a location where it can not be access after assembly. 20 years in the Military taught me wire do not break in the middle unless they are touched or tampered with. They only break at the connections. If you ever have a break in the wire in the middle of a run, it is because it chafed against something sharp for a long time or a Screw or connecting device was driven into the wire.

Other thing to think about, if you have a wires that will have a lot of movement, like wire going inside a door for electronic locks or lights, plan on replacing them at some point due to ware. Place in access spot or covers.

Just my 3 cents worth.

[_Ryan_]

Best never to place any slices or a connector in a location where it can not be access after assembly. 20 years in the Military taught me wire do not break in the middle unless they are touched or tampered with. They only break at the connections. If you ever have a break in the wire in the middle of a run, it is because it chafed against something sharp for a long time or a Screw or connecting device was driven into the wire.

Thanks for all the great info! I was going on this assumption and I'm glad to hear I am on the right track.