OverTheTopCargoTrailer 7 x 16

[bdosborn]

My logic is I don't wanna have everything hanging on one MEGA system, this will be easier to maintain, trouble shoot & fix if needed. I keep hearing stories where a guys batteries go bad & he gotta buy 800 AH batts - not cheap.

I could see adding some diversity to your battery setup for reliability. Just remember that you'll need to replace the batteries every 5-7 years no matter how well you maintain them, depending on the number of discharges. Adding more batteries adds to the long term costs of ownership but what the heck, you;ll probably build another one by then.

Bruce

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

OMG A Plus

Thats an excellent idea and drawing, I would however be scared to do 2 panels as they are each 50lbs

I was just thinking should I have the panel solar sides facing out - screwed in place (( then remove the metal cover ? ))

This is the metal solar panel cover - with pink plastic to protect metal

a solar panel cover.JPG (88.44 KiB) Viewed 2553 times

2 separate panels actually will sit side by side

vs.

Having the solar side face the trailer & then having the whole cover with panel fold down
this is where your idea with a single hinge would come into play....
I was thinking of a 2" wide 30" long piano hinge on the bottom folding panel for now.


*****the reason I need one panel to fold out 6-12" is because the hidden a/c will be under the cover.******


Thanks for the great idea & drawing


Jerry

[bdosborn]

Nice graphic! I would be careful with this type of arrangement. Solar panels only have their rated strength to wind when supported per the manufacturers recommendation. Better check with the factory and see what support they require. It would be a shame if the panels all broke in the first strong wind.

Bruce

[bdosborn]

Check out how this guy did it:

Here's some pictures of my install:


I used some aluminum rectangular tubing that I had laying around to fashion the side brackets. There's a slot at the top that a pin hooks into.


Panel lifted off top of bracket.


The pin is a stainless steel bolt with the head cut off.


Each bracket is fastened with 5 stainless steel sheet metal screws into the fiberglass siding. I also used silicone adhesive.


The lower pins are an aviation style safety pin that I happened to find a a flea market.


Lower pin.

RV.net linky

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

I could see adding some diversity to your battery setup for reliability. Just remember that you'll need to replace the batteries every 5-7 years no matter how well you maintain them, depending on the number of discharges. Adding more batteries adds to the long term costs of ownership but what the heck, you;ll probably build another one by then.

Bruce

No Bruce to be 100% honest I would like those new lithium car batteries best,
first they are super light & then
because they can store up to 17KW and have up to 5,000 charge cycles,
but at $20k they would eat into my budget a little to much.

Bruce

Thanks for the above pictures they give me some good ideas...
I just gotta make my system work for 50 lbs panels....
I wish I could buy lighter panels like 35 lbs
but lucky for me I have open wood stud walls- so I can get a good attachment & add
additional studs if I need to

My newer 255 weight 41 lbs ..... vs older 210 that weigh 50 lbs

Jerry

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Ok so here is what I found, some 2 hinges I can install on the fender that will allow the panel to tilt outward on the top
I just need to make a metal bracket - which I can screw to the panel

photo 1-2.JPG (86.81 KiB) Viewed 2501 times

This is the white solar panel cover - "WITH" the plastic film still present.
2 panels will sit side by side-
only one need to tilt out for the A/C behind the panel.

photo 3-1.JPG (90.09 KiB) Viewed 2501 times

[bdosborn]

Boy, it sure seems like you should put the hinge at the top of the trailer wall and pivot on the long side of the panel like the guy with the motorhome did.

Bruce

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Hey Bruce

On my next trailer ......panels will fold up maybe
I'll also get magnetic door locks

Jerry

[A Plus MM]

If you are going to hinge the cover at the bottom anyway, why not hinge the solar panel at the top and make the cover the prop? Maybe reinforce the frame of the panel a little so it'll be a little stronger.

Maybe I am just not following what you are thinking about.

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Because its supposed to be soooooooo FRIGGIN HOT in the coming days...

I have decided to jump ahead to the ceiling insulation....
to give it the real ACID test... I will leave the exterior roof silver.

I'm installing a full R19 Denim Ultra Touch Insulation

photo 1-3.JPG (105.3 KiB) Viewed 2424 times

Above you can see the 1" alum rib , under which I installed at 2" x 3" wood to help support the rib
and allow 3.5" insulation space.

photo 2-3.JPG (142.31 KiB) Viewed 2424 times

Here you can see in between the bays

photo 3-2.JPG (128.83 KiB) Viewed 2424 times

Here is a bay filled with insulation, as for the ceiling I will install 1" foam board
for a total R-25 ceiling.

Now I know some of you are gonna shake your heads and say this is overkill

BUT remember this is: OverTheTopCargoTrailer V2.0

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

If you wanna go to a build your own trailer class
I just found this on line

Happy trailer building

Maybe I could give classes too. ANY TAKERS ???


http://smalltrailerenthusiast.com/2013/05/04/trekker-trailers-to-host-build-your-own-camper-class/

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

R-19.JPG (172.87 KiB) Viewed 2379 times

Here is the material I used, its R-19 Denim Ultra Touch BUT it only fluffs to 3.5" vs should fluff to 5.5"
many online forms complain about this situation......
My guess the material is more for walls vs ceilings & fluffs more when hanging.
But in my case it works - ok

THE STUFF is a PIA to cut & is somewhat dusty

photo 3-3.JPG (118.34 KiB) Viewed 2379 times

Wouldn't you believe it I misplaced my stupid knife, but I was able to make this straight knife & carpet blade work.....
after I was done then by magic ....the old one was back.

almost done.JPG (113.87 KiB) Viewed 2379 times

Im keeping it open for a while to test & see how well it works.....
the final layer will also include another 1" foam and 1/4" plywood maybe ?


today when I need the heat - its cloudy

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

Late today I purchased a wireless thermometer and as is normal for Over The Top ...
I installed the wireless unit between the insulation and the silver metal roof. This was at 5:30 PM late today.
Tomorrow it will be much colder so I will have to wait until it gets hot again for additional test results.
inside the temperature was 87 - but under the roof insulation it was still 122 deg F at 5:30 pm

My bet is, the silver roof will hit 130 deg F easy. Here again is where I tell you
at this temperature your solar panels will loose 50% of their output.
I will also experiment with spraying cold water on the roof to see how it brings the temperature down.
I bet none of you have ever thought about cooling your RV or panels down by spraying water on the exterior,
it is very effective because water absorbs heat very fast.

t1.JPG (94.03 KiB) Viewed 2316 times

It's now 8 PM evening and both temps have equalized. Once fully insulated the opposite readings
should happen at night. Maybe 60 under the skim outside & 75 inside. Time will tell, I plan to install more wired units.

t2.JPG (112.63 KiB) Viewed 2316 times

Late at night, now the exterior skin temp has fallen bellow the interior temp.
The alum temperature is 68 deg F & inside its 74 deg F

t3.JPG (110.4 KiB) Viewed 2316 times

[roadinspector]

I have sprayed water for a quick fix so I could work on a trailer roof. It is very temporary since it will evaporate quickly with roof temps being high. If it is painted white it will reflect more heat than it will absorb. Just my 2 cents worth. That & a plug nickel won't get you a cup of coffee.

Earnest

[OverTheTopCargoTrailer]

b1.JPG (92.48 KiB) Viewed 2256 times

Hi Earnest

I think your right Today in reached 134°F. Most of the day it was above 125°F.
I am thinking of building a small webbing / plastic tubing to capture some of the free heat.
This would be done with something like a aquarium pump circulating water and maybe would going to a small 2-5 gallon holding tank.
I would then be able to have some instant hot water without requiring the water heater to be powered up.


I'm still thinking on this idea.