Router bit on aluminum?

[RandyG]

Before I try it and possibly hurt myself or a bit I thought I would ask if anybody has done it before. Will be done on 5052 H-34 .063".

[Gage]

Yep, sure have and I had no problem.Just be sure to use some common sense and be safety minded.

[prohandyman]

A variable speed router helps. You need a low RPM to keep from heating up the aluminum too much, which will lead to it sticking to the bit. Router lubricate helps as well as does a sharp router bit.

[ssrjim]

A variable speed router helps. You need a low RPM to keep from heating up the aluminum too much, which will lead to it sticking to the bit. Router lubricate helps as well as does a sharp router bit.

Yes slow it down.

Also be careful of the chips getting between the base and the metal. It will scratch the metal.

[Jiminsav]

also be aware that the router will only like traveling in one direction..don't force it.

[RandyG]

Thanks yall, I don't have a router that I can slow down, maybe I can use that as an excuse to buy one.

[swillner]

You can purchase a speed controller that will work on any router. Harbor freight has one for $20.00 Router Speed Control Router Speed Control Item #43060

[aggie79]

I routed the aluminum without slowing down my router. But...you have to go very slow and deliberately. I used three different style of bits. All did the job. The most effective was a solid carbide "knob" type bit designed to trim plastic laminate. I also used a solid carbide down cut spiral bit and a carbide tipped straight cut bit. Both were flush trim bits.

To keep from scratching your aluminum apply two or three layers of masking tape.

[markhusbands]

Doesn't the aluminum sometimes come with a plastic film that can prevent scratching? I guess I'll find out in another week...

[Dale M.]

You can protect aluminum with a layer of masking tape....

Dale

[ssrjim]

You can protect aluminum with a layer of masking tape....

Dale

I have had the chips embed themselves into the tape. So all I can say is check it often.

[warnmar10]

I routed the aluminum without slowing down my router. But...you have to go very slow and deliberately. I used three different style of bits. All did the job. The most effective was a solid carbide "knob" type but designed to trim plastic laminate. I also used a solid carbide down cut spiral bit and a carbide tipped straight cut bit. Both were flush trim bits.

To keep from scratching your aluminum apply two or three layers of masking tape.

In one of my past lives I worked as a cabinet maker for an aircraft interior outfitter. I've run literally miles of aluminum past router bits at full speed. I can't say running the router slower wouldn't have worked or worked better but I can say that full speed works brilliantly. The shop in which I worked used conventional carbide woodworking tools for all cutting operations, table saw, jointer, router. The material we ran most was aluminum honeycomb sandwiched between two aluminum skins.
But for the expense, aluminum honeycomb would make fabulous teardrop trailer walls... ceilings, floors, cabinets, arr arr arr.
As I was starting to go in another direction, the industry was moving toward even lighter weight kevlar panels in place of aluminum honeycomb.

slow and deliberate

On my first day or two I'm sure I was slow and deliberate but you soon learn that a steady even speed will inhibit "chatter" and make a smother finished cut.

be aware that the router will only like traveling in one direction..don't force it.

Always run the router in the direction opposite its rotation. Feeding in the direction of rotation is called a climb cut, appropriate for some woodworking operations but not for laminate trimming.

[RandyG]

They use those panels on wings and tails all over jets, the skins are usually .020 -.040, very thin.
Even on aircraft they battle moisture with those panels, cause once they get a puncture and get water in it, they delam. But until that happens they are very strong.

[warnmar10]

They use those panels on wings and tails all over jets, the skins are usually .020 -.040, very thin.
Even on aircraft they battle moisture with those panels, cause once they get a puncture and get water in it, they delam. But until that happens they are very strong.

I have had a one cubic meter shipping container for about 30 years that had punctures when I got it and there are no signs of coming apart. It's 3/8" wall on all sides, the corners are joined with aluminum angle and it has fork lift skids on the bottom. The top is 3/8 with aluminum channel on the edges and two aluminum angles attached to the bottom for rigidity. I wouldn't feel safe trying to fly in it but I strap it to my flat bed trailer and send it down the highway on a regular basis and no signs of anything but ugly. As for wall thickness, most of the cabinets I built were laminated with wood veneer on the exterior and plastic laminate interiors. If I could score enough 1/2 or 3/4" honeycomb to build teardrop walls I think I would laminate the exterior with FRP and the interior would get a layer of thin foam board and thin... something else. In any case it is probably out of my reach. The cost of honeycomb or kevlar is inconsequential to the price of a Gulfstream but would likely score a major hit to my net worth.

[aggie79]

Doesn't the aluminum sometimes come with a plastic film that can prevent scratching? I guess I'll find out in another week...

Sheets generally do have plastic or can be ordered with plastic. I don't think I've ever seen coil stock with plastic.