The manual is 112 pages. I have two plus a PDF. Daunting, yes; but much more complete than what some others offer.
I have an FM80 and an FM60, a bunch of panels, batteries, etc. I am not a newb when it comes to solar PV, but I am not an engineer either.
The outgoing breaker does not have to be a 63 amp as you just said.
Don't ask me why the outgoing for Outback 80 is a 63 amp breaker
There are 80 amp breakers by Midnight Solar available, for example. I don't know what you have for a box/panel so can not say if it will fit. I have Airpax breakers, but I also have home crafted and non NEC, non UL approved enclosures. But I also have no inspections where I am located.
I don't know why your breaker tripped; was just trying to help as I have installed a few systems that work.
You are right in that 24, 36 and 48 volt systems are different; they can accept much larger wattage from the PV array.. It's one of the advantages of higher voltage battery banks. Maybe higher DC voltages are not the first thing someone might choose in a vehicle or trailer. But inverters, etc are readily available in 24 and 48 VDC and there are DC to DC voltage converters so we can have 12 VDC for things like lights, whatever.
FM80 FM60
12V 1250W 800W
24V 2500W 1600W
36V 3750W 2400W
48V 5000W 3200W
60V 6250W 4000W
It's 9 amps incoming at 133 volts dc.
9x133 = 1197 watts; within the specs.
But if the CC was putting out 14.5 volts that would be 82 amps, not accounting for CC losses.
A 63 amp breaker would like that much.
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Is the breaker in a hot enclosed space? If your breaker is a thermal-magnetic type they are sensitive to high temperatures. The amp rating goes down as the temperature exceeds STC.
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Just trying to help.
If you would rather I don't, say so.