Help me deside on a side profile shape

[kd5edj63]

I was at the lumber yard today (Home depot) looking at plywood and such. Spesifically I wanted to see the thin stuff. The stuff that flexes and allowes one to make a traditional tear drop shape. In birch, the thinist they had was quarter inch. I found some other thinner underlayment (2.7mm I think) that was very flexible but very thin. I also saw 5mm stuff that was of course less flexible. I an leaning heavily on a boxy type shape for simplicity reasons both in design and construction. Particularly in simplifying the hatch design. I think, I THINK I can at least make the front end rounded somewhat, but I think being my 1st build, I would want to go with a flat hatch. Flat as in not curved. Not flat as in perfectly verticle. I need persuasion in going with a rounded front end. I think by next weekend (mid-late October) I will be ready to get after doing the sides and making some good progress. Any advice would be helpful. I hope to test out my 1st build by winter
I am almost positive I will paint my trailer rather than skin it. So that is not something to consider at this point

[grantstew8]

By making it 8x4 you use a lot less timber than if it's 5' wide. If you have lots of woodworking tools then make it any shape you want. If not keep it geometric. 1/8 is really flexible.

Good luck!

[les45]

How about a weekender? Totally angular.

[working on it]

I was at the lumber yard today (Home depot) looking at plywood and such. Spesifically I wanted to see the thin stuff. The stuff that flexes and allowes one to make a traditional tear drop shape. In birch, the thinist they had was quarter inch. I found some other thinner underlayment (2.7mm I think) that was very flexible but very thin. I also saw 5mm stuff that was of course less flexible. I an leaning heavily on a boxy type shape for simplicity reasons both in design and construction. Particularly in simplifying the hatch design. I think, I THINK I can at least make the front end rounded somewhat, but I think being my 1st build, I would want to go with a flat hatch. Flat as in not curved. Not flat as in perfectly verticle. I need persuasion in going with a rounded front end. I think by next weekend (mid-late October) I will be ready to get after doing the sides and making some good progress. Any advice would be helpful. I hope to test out my 1st build by winter
I am almost positive I will paint my trailer rather than skin it. So that is not something to consider at this point

How about a weekender? Totally angular.

Flat, angular ? Where have I seen that combination ? Before you decide, ask yourself " Do I want a Teardrop? or do I want to repeat (over and over) "It's like a Teardrop, but, it's not ....". For heavens' sake, make at least one part curved, or you'll get no understanding or comfort.

[tony.latham]

I used Steve Fredrick's Teardrop Shop Manual and found his build method for the hatch, disturbingly simple.

Also, I live three hours from the nearest Home Depot or Lowe's. That didn't stop me from making the drive and checking out the plywood selection at the nearest box stores in Missoula –and ditto– nothing by 1/4" stuff. However, my itsy-bitsy local-yocal lumber yard manager made a phone call and had several 5x5 sheets of 1/8" baltic birch in a week here in the middle of nowhere. It's sweet to work with.

I did use 1/4" floor underlayment for the walls (sandwich style). The stuff I found was cheaper, more solid than AC fir, and much better looking –plus it's rated for "moist envioroments." No delamination after soaking a week in a bucket of water.

Here's what it looks like inside. That's 1/4" underlayment on the walls/sliders and 1/8" baltic on the ceiling.


Now doesn't that just make you want to crawl in there and take a nap on that 5" foam mattress?

Tony

[KennethW]

I had know problem with bending 1/4 luan . I made my wall with the inside profile laid the the ceiling over the sides with glue then screwed and glued the rafted 1by 2 to the walls thru the ceiling luan.


Put the insulation between the rafters. then I glued on the roof and screwed the outer edges.
Then used a router( a saw would work) with a end bearing bit with a 1/4 inch shim to cut the outer wall .

Lastly I cut out the doors out and cut the hatch off the back.with a router(or saw). It made making the hatch so easy. Just get your hinge support in the right place. It took the fear out of making a hatch that will fit.

[RandyG]

How many campers do you want to build? Might as well make the first one something you will want to keep for a long time and make it to last. I barely convinced my wife to go along with one, forget any more. But with some time, you can get 1/4" to bend into some tight bends. 18" diameter into a U shape is my record, for another project not tear related.

[PKCSPT]

While I like the traditional tear shape (and have one) I also like the weekender shape as well. I am very tempted to try building one myself and the weekender is the route I will go,

[kd5edj63]

Thanks for all the help guys. The videos make me feel a bit more at ease about a curvy design. I will look into a weekender. If thats a weekender in your avatar Les45, thats the shape I like for boxy.

[halfdome, Danny]

The method used in the second video is way too labor intensive and having the grain going in different directions will show, even when painted.

Remember, you'll be looking at the ceiling while laying in bed, so make it as nice as possible.
I use my router with a wood fence clamped to the base and route a 1/4" deep rabbit along the 3/4" thick roof profile to the depth of the spars and ceiling profile.
After the walls and bulkheads are attached to the floor I drop the pre finished 1/8" Baltic Birch ceiling down on the lightly glued 1/4" rabbit edge and staple it down.
I then glue & install the roof spars.
Where there is a joint on a spar I use lath screws to temporarily pull it up tight.
I don't have a seam going the length of the ceiling as shown in the video.
After the screws are removed I put a 1/4" x 3/4" piece of matching trim over that joint and one in the same spot at the other end to give it some visual balance.
I use prop sticks to hold the rest of the roof while the glue dries to the spars.
This produces a nice looking ceiling even where the walls and the ceiling meet.
Danny

[kd5edj63]

my trailer is 4 feet wide so I wont have the problem of the grain going in different dirrections

[eamarquardt]

The method used in the second video is way too labor intensive and having the grain going in different directions will show, even when painted.

Remember, you'll be looking at the ceiling while laying in bed, so make it as nice as possible.
I use my router with a wood fence clamped to the base and route a 1/4" deep rabbit along the 3/4" thick roof profile to the depth of the spars and ceiling profile.
After the walls and bulkheads are attached to the floor I drop the pre finished 1/8" Baltic Birch ceiling down on the lightly glued 1/4" rabbit edge and staple it down.
I then glue & install the roof spars.
Where there is a joint on a spar I use lath screws to temporarily pull it up tight.
I don't have a seam going the length of the ceiling as shown in the video.
After the screws are removed I put a 1/4" x 3/4" piece of matching trim over that joint and one in the same spot at the other end to give it some visual balance.
I use prop sticks to hold the rest of the roof while the glue dries to the spars.
This produces a nice looking ceiling even where the walls and the ceiling meet.
Danny

Great technique and explanation. Danny is a master.

[kd5edj63]

I use my router with a wood fence clamped to the base and route a 1/4" deep rabbit along the 3/4" thick roof profile to the depth of the spars and ceiling profile.
After the walls and bulkheads are attached to the floor I drop the pre finished 1/8" Baltic Birch ceiling down on the lightly glued 1/4" rabbit edge and staple it down.
Danny

can you explain that better. Whats a rabbit and what kind of stapler do you use

[halfdome, Danny]

I use my router with a wood fence clamped to the base and route a 1/4" deep rabbit along the 3/4" thick roof profile to the depth of the spars and ceiling profile.
After the walls and bulkheads are attached to the floor I drop the pre finished 1/8" Baltic Birch ceiling down on the lightly glued 1/4" rabbit edge and staple it down.
Danny

can you explain that better. Whats a rabbit and what kind of stapler do you use

Don't know how to explain it any simpler.
This is what a rabbet looks like on the left.

I use a [Pneumatic 1/4" narrow crown stapler.
Danny

[kd5edj63]

I guess I would need to see the side wall with the rabbet cut into it to make any sense of it. I'll look into an air stapler. Thanks
Edit. I take it the bulkhead is the gally area, correct