Citylights' Tear - SOLD! - update 08-01-16

[S. Heisley]

...Looking really, really good!!!

[citylights]

When I thought about an aluminum skin for the teardrop, I thought about big flat sheets of aluminum and a couple pieces of trim.

Hmmm, now I know that is backwards. A couple of big flat sheets and HUNDREDS of pieces of trim!





This is a 6 inch piece of trim that didn't make it. Saw tooth caught it wrong and turned it into a projectile. This is what it looked like after bouncing off the wall behind my head. No wonder why I wear safety glasses when cutting this stuff.

[S. Heisley]

That could've been a big owwwie! Stay safe!

[aggie79]

Fantastic work on your teardrop!

:frightened: That could've been a big owwwie! Stay safe!

+1 on what Sharon said! Stay safe.

If you're cutting the trim in a miter saw, you probably should make a vertical auxiliary fence out of scrap wood. When cutting aluminum angle I also use a scrap block of wood to place the angle upside down with one leg pointing down and the other leg pointing toward the auxiliary fence. This way the angle is captured (for the most part).

[citylights]

Finished up the tongue box and AC hatch. Weather stripped and latched.

[rebapuck]

That looks so cool. I think you should name it "The Cooler".

[drewh1]

Man, you are a pro with that aluminum and trim. I know who I am going to when I am ready to start my aluminum work.

Nice work


drew.

[citylights]

That looks so cool. I think you should name it "The Cooler".

Thanks! I have been trying to think of a good name since I started but had not come up with anything. I really like "the Cooler".

[citylights]

Got a bunch more done this weekend, but only one picture. It is a biggie though, something I have been worried about for a while. Making my hatch fit my side wall.

I over cut my sidewall, so. Ended up with about a 1 inch gap between my hatch and sidewall. I looked for hatch trim that would cover the gap, I even bought some two inch aluminum angle, but anything with over 1 inch "leg" is really tough to bend!

I ended up splitting the difference. I added 1/2 inch to my sidewall. Two, 1/4 inch pieces of plywood glued on, then my sidewall trim is 1 inch angle ripped down to 3/4 leg to make it bend better. That makes 1/4 inch overlap with my sidewall aluminum. So now my gap between sidewall and hatch is only 1/2 inch, perfect for some liberal gasket material.

I used some wide lip RV roof edge molding from Grant, little bear, tear parts supply. That has about 1/2 inch leg. With liberal use if a rubber mallet to fine tune things, my hatch now mates with my sidewalls.

I am not thrilled about the small wrinkles in the aluminum side bends, anybody have a suggestion to fix?

I also finished my other door too, but I didn't get any pictures. It looks the same as the first, but with a little tighter fit. I learned how to work the aluminum a little better between the time I did the first and second door!

[atahoekid]

That aluminum work is looking great. What kind of aluminum did you use? Did you use standard (Big Orange) aluminum flashing or did you buy specific aluminum for the trim pieces? Making plans for the next one, potentially for a neighbor (for cash!!!) I'd like to be able to try aluminum if they'll go for it.

[citylights]

For the door trim T molding, tear edge trim, and galley edge trim (all specialty molding, not available locally) I ordered from Grant at little bear teardrop supply. I didn't look very hard, maybe the nearest RV supply could have ordered it. Grant isn't the cheapest, but it worked great.

For the flat aluminum, 1 and 2 inch angle, and flat strap, I got from a local steel supply store. They were very helpful, had 4x10 sheets of aluminum in stock. They have a surprising amount of aluminum in stock and can order just about anything delivered in 24 hours. I was looking at ordering some specialty C channel there for my side walls at galley, but ended up using 2 pieces of 1 inch aluminum angle instead. I used 0.04 thick 5052 sheet and 6061 aluminum angle.

Stainless screws, stainless hinges, and other miscellaneous hardware, I got from the local lowes and Home Depot.

Oh, and if you are going to skin in aluminum, you are going to need bunches of 3/4 inch butyl tape. That is the water stop seal under every piece of trim... I ordered about 120 feet of that from Amazon because the big box stores near me don't carry it.

[aggie79]

Looking really nice! And you'll have a worry free finish too.

I am not thrilled about the small wrinkles in the aluminum side bends, anybody have a suggestion to fix?

I had the same situation on some of the tighter radii on my trim. What I did was use a dead blow hammer and a block of wood to smooth out the wrinkles. http://www.harborfreight.com/4-lb-neon-orange-dead-blow-hammer-41800.html The dead blow hammer transmits all of the forces rather than bouncing off like a rubber hammer. Hold the block of wood flat on the trim. Then hit it with the dead blow hammer. Be careful that the block of wood doesn't rest on your aluminum sheeting or it will leave a mark. Not all of the puckers and wrinkles will go away, but you'll get most of them.

Oh, and if you are going to skin in aluminum, you are going to need bunches of 3/4 inch butyl tape. That is the water stop seal under every piece of trim... I ordered about 120 feet of that from Amazon because the big box stores near me don't carry it.

The butyl tape is traditional and works well; however, its thickness can sometimes be a fight. Except for around my windows, I used adhesive sealant instead of butyl tape.

Take care,
Tom

[citylights]

The butyl tape is traditional and works well; however, its thickness can sometimes be a fight. Except for around my windows, I used adhesive sealant instead of butyl tape.

I did notice that about the butyl tape. It is easier to apply and smooth out when it is sun warmed. They make a roller tool for thinning it out in place, but I didn't get the tool. My thumbs are getting tough from spreading it. I used adhesive sealant around my door trim where I was having trouble thinning out the butyl tape enough. The adhesive was definitely easier, I could have used that everywhere, but the butyl is time tested.

I figure, when my tear is done, I will let it bake in the sun, then hit all the trim screws one more time with the impact screw driver to give it the squeeze!

[citylights]

Tail lights cut and mounted.

[stonykill]

looking sharp!