Austin Texas Woody TD Build

[KCStudly]

Perhaps rip some thin slats to use as fillers (many people do this), or even a row of paint stir sticks.

I would be concerned that felt would collect and hold moisture.

[WitsRUs]

Thank you KC and Ryan for the tip on filling the gap!

Today I got the shipment of two doors, roof vent, 9"x44" window, and hurricane hinge! The only issue was that the delivery person dropped it on the porch of 3102 instead of mine at 3201! Thank you kind neighbor for coming over to tell me!



I also put on a a second coat of the Fence Post Asphalt Paint today and removed the taping. It was a very easy application with a brush for the first coat then a roller for the second coat. Like Ryan found, it was not nearly as messy as I thought it was going to be.

Starting the first coat with a brush.



After the fist coat is complete.



After the second coat with a roller and after the masking is removed.

[aggie79]

Thank you KC and Ryan for the tip on filling the gap!

Today I got the shipment of two doors, roof vent, 9"x44" window, and hurricane hinge! The only issue was that the delivery person dropped it on the porch of 3102 instead of mine at 3201! Thank you kind neighbor for coming over to tell me!



I also put on a a second coat of the Fence Post Asphalt Paint today and removed the taping. It was a very easy application with a brush for the first coat then a roller for the second coat. Like Ryan found, it was not nearly as messy as I thought it was going to be.

Starting the first coat with a brush.



After the fist coat is complete.



After the second coat with a roller and after the masking is removed.

Very cool! It's good to know that the fence post paint isn't that messy and cures relatively quickly.

[WitsRUs]

One thing I realized was that I have mentioned I am trying to build my TD by following the Wyoming Woody thread by Ryan but I never linked to it. Here is Ryan's Wyoming Woody build thread:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=53842

I have not posted in quite a few days as I have been busy with other stuff; replacing some boards on a hardwood floor one weekend and visiting my daughter at college the other weekend. I have done some work on the layout of the plywood profile patterns.

Here is the layout proceeding


I have decided to go with the offset hurricane hinge so as that meant I would not need the 3/8" notch in the profile. You can see that I followed the deign profile on both sides of the notch but just used a piece of thin wood to smooth out over one side of the notch to the other.


I needed to make a profile of the outside and the inside of the TD so I started by cutting out two profiles at once. I then did a 1 5/8" offset for the roof and liner and a 4 1/4" offset for the flooring.


Here is is a shot of the inside and outside profiles.


This weekend I am hoping to get the deck onto the trailer and the lap joints completed on the 3/4" plywood!

[George Taylor]

looks good. I would recommend getting a set of the Kreg clamps for the pocket hole jig. They do help out a great deal in getting the parts to stay even.

[WitsRUs]

This weekend I was able to get the deck secured on to the trailer which was one of my goals. Prior to securing I asked my wife to sand off the green imprints on the plywood and sand the butt joint between the two sheets one the deck.



Before the deck could be secured both Ryan and KC suggested that I consider the gap between the deck and the cross members of the trailer.

One thing I noticed as I was completing my build was that that there was a gap ( about 1/8" ) between the underside deck and the crossmembers of the Northern Tool trailer. This gap was the result of the way the cross members were attached to the inside of the side rails on the trailer.

It wasn't a big deal, but it did creak a bit when I jumped onto the deck. I solved this issue by inserting a few felt bumpers ( the kind for the feet of chairs to protect hardwood floors). You might think about installing a couple rubber pads or some type of window flashing over the trailer cross members before permanently attaching the deck.

I would be concerned that felt would collect and hold moisture.

Here is a picture of what is causing the gap as suggested by Ryan:


I put three layers of rolled window flashing on each of the cross members. I then put a bead of GE Premium Silicone caulk on the top of the cross members and the main frame. We then lowered the deck onto the frame and secured it with carriage bolts, torque washers , from McMater Carr, washers, and Nylock nuts.





One thing I did not do that Ryan did was to take the time to counter sink the top of the carriage bolts and torque washers. I figured that the mattress would be over them. Not right nor wrong just different. Here is the deck on the frame.



My other goal was to get the lap joints done on my plywood sheets. Because the Aggies were playing it cut into my work time so I managed to get only one of the mortises routed. I have only used a router on one other small project so getting that done was a big deal for me! Hopefully some evening work will get those done this week!

Regards,
Bob

[KCStudly]

Looking good.

[WitsRUs]

This week I got the cut-outs for the insulation and door marked on the main template. I also got the template edges sanded to take out the irregularities for cutting with the handheld jig saw. Working in parallel I also got the 3.5" lap joints completed on the 3/4" plywood. My first one was a learning experience and my 2nd one came out much better. You can see a cross section photo of the 1st and 2nd lap-joint below showing the learning! Today I was able to use the main template along with a top-bearing flush-cut router bit to transfer the profile from the template to the 3/4" plywood. Next up, use a 1/4" cut length, top-bearing flush trim router bit to make the mortis cuts in the side wall profiles!

Mortis cuts for the lap joints






Here is a mistake I made when the router jumped over the fence I was using. I will make the lap joint and then fill it with a mix of Tightbond III and sawdust.



I clamped a warped 2x4 (bend upwards) to a piece of luan plywood with parchment paper top and bottom to prevent glueing the work piece to the bench or the clamping material.



Here is the first completed lap joint.



Here are two cross sections of the lap joints after cutting with the flush cut router bit. Guess which was the first and which was the second?




I tacked the template to the plywood with some finish nails. You can see it is a rough cut to the profile. I learned very quickly that the closer the rough cut the easier the flush cut bit will cut. The second wall was rough cut a lot closer to the final profile and it went a lot smoother the second time!



The flush cut, top bearing bit I used.



Workin-it!



Does anyone know what causes these "fuzzy ends" and how to prevent them? It seems like they occur when cutting across the wood grain.



Two profiles ready for the 1/4" mortis!



Thanks agin to Ryan and his build/design threads for the Wyoming Woody which I am attempting to copy!

Regards,
Bob

[nevadatear]

Great job! Always excited to watch a woody build.

[KCStudly]

You can prevent the fuzzy splinters by rough trimming closer to your line. Another way is to use a sharp utility knife to trace the line and score thru the outer fibers. That way they are already cut when the router passes by.

[KCStudly]

Forgot to say that the fuzzies are not really a big deal. Just hit them ever so lightly with some fine sand paper wrapped around a hard block and they will come right off. Just don't go too crazy and round the corner over.

[WitsRUs]

With a college visit this weekend I decided to work some evenings this week. I was able to get both of the side profiles mortis cuts done as well as the cutouts for the insulation and door. Also KC, thanks for the tip on removing the "fuzziness"!

On my last post I was using the mortis profile to mark the 1/4" deep mortis cuts. Ryan mentioned in his build of the Wyoming Woody that using the mortis profile as a fence was a problem because of the radius change on the curves. I did a search and found a top bearing, flush cut, 1/4" cut-length bit that allowed me to use the mortis template directly. Here is a pic of the bit.




The rough cuts in progress.


After placing the template on I used the 1/4" cut length bit to finalize the cut.






After finalizing the mortis cuts I moved on to the profile cut outs. I used the outer template aligned to the outside of one of the profiles. I marked the cut outs and then rough cut them with a saw. I replaced the template an then used a 1" cut length, top bearing flush cut bit to complete the cut outs on the first profile. I tested the fit of the door and it fit well. The next was to put the rough cut second profile over the first one that was was just completed. I then used a bottom bearing flush cut bit to make identical cuts in the second profile which was on top of the first one.

Here is the profile template being laid out for the first profile cut. Note that the two cuts closest in the picture. These are different than in Ryan's Wyoming Woody build where he had one opening the same size as the two openings that I am making. We have decided to put a removable table coming off of the side of the galley. I need a solid mount for the table hardware so I added the cross piece at the height and location that I will use later in the build. Otherwise the cut outs are the same as the Wyoming Woody.


Here are the two completed side walls. The left side profile in the foreground and the right side profile one the background. Not the mortis cuts on the left side profile.


Here are profiles along side the trailer and decking. As Ryan said in his build, it is starting to look like a teardrop!


My wife got home from work and held the profile in place! It was getting dark but I wanted to get a picture before we left for the weekend so the picture is a bit grainy but you get the idea!



Next week I will start on the front cabinets which is something I have never done! We will see how it goes!
Until the next update, best regards!
Bob

[jeporter25]

Looking great and flying along

[Starseeker]

Looks like you are off to a great start. You picked a great design.

[aggie79]

Fantastic!

You're moving along quicker than the Kyle Field renovation/expansion. At this pace, you'll be finsished in time to tailgate next year.

Gig'em,
Tom