Building wood fenders- kinda long post

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby cracker39 » Mon Apr 24, 2006 8:44 am

I used Miniwax Provincial Pine, because after testing 6 stains, I basically gave up. I don't LOVE this color, but it's by far the best I tested to bring out the grain. Of course, the luan tops and ply sides take it differently, but that's to be expected.

I haven’t tried that stain, because it isn’t in the Polyshades line, and I am trying to stay with Polyshades because it’s much easier to work with. I tried my samples for cabinets using both luan and my oak ply, and of course, they and the spruce frames all look different with the same stain. But, that gives it contrast which I do like.

The results are a fairly deep brown color. (Sorry, no pics yet. Remember that bad groin?) I now want to protect it with something that will give me the BRIGHTEST gloss possible. Is this epoxy, spar varnish or urethane? The edges will have thin, light strip molding to contrast. (I was considering using rope to match the rest of the TD, but I just don't know.)

I’ve always gotten a really good gloss just using the Minwax interior clear gloss polyeurothane, sometimes with two coats. The exterior Spar polyeurothane will add to the depth/darkness of the stain color as it has a yellowish appearance. I don’t know of an exterior polyeurothane that is perfectly clear, although there may be one somewhere. I’m using Clear Satin polyeurothane on my cabinets.
Dale

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Postby Ira » Mon Apr 24, 2006 9:09 am

The Polyshades are not for outdoor use--that's why I avoided them for this.
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Postby cracker39 » Mon Apr 24, 2006 10:45 am

Yeah, I know. I have nothing outside that is stained...all of my stained stuff is inside. I wasn't suggesting you use Polyshades outside...I wouldn't. I'd have more choices of stain color if I used regular stain, but I'm just too lazy to put in on, wait, rub it off, let it dry, do it again, then put on clear finish. Polyshades are made for someone like me.
:relaxing: :icedtea:
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Postby Roly Nelson » Sun May 07, 2006 1:11 am

Walter, I built my wood fenders out of 1/8 inch lauan, about 3 years ago and so far have had no problem. The metal bracket you mentioned was probably a bracket for the tail lights and I have the same on my trailer. I fastened wooden members to both sides of them, glued and screwed the wooden fenders to them and I can actually stand and jump on them to prove that my fenders can hold up the weight of a grown man. (However, I am careful not to do it where there is no metal bracket, but no one knows that). Wood is good, so go for it.

Roly, just a woody builder that does it a little differently.
See the little 1/2 Nelson Woody constructions pics at: http://gages-56.com/roly.html
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Postby cracker39 » Sun May 07, 2006 6:16 am

I think that after my wooden fenders are installed, they would support my weight standing on them, but, I'm not about to test that theory. I'll have five 2 1/2" long 1/4" bolts through the 3/4" side wall framing and 1" fender wall., two towards each end of the fender and one in the center near the top of the fender. I've undercoated the fenders and sprayed on another coat of white outside and will mount them today.
Dale

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Postby Ira » Sun May 07, 2006 9:18 am

Dale, regular bolts and nuts? So are the nuts exposed in the cabin--or hidden in a cabinet somewhere?

Me--photos coming later. I installed the top trim yesterday, love the way it came out, but now I need a side trim solution.

The edges of the luan tops don't take the varnish the way the side panel does, so you see this distracting line. Also, since I'm not PERFECT, there are spots where the luan just wouldn't stay down 100% flush on the side edge. The gap is TINY, but it's still there in spots, and needs a trim fix.

I bought two dowels yesterday and they've been sitting in the pool since then to make them more bendy. If I'm satisfied with the way they take the varnsh (I bought an extra piece to test, real cheap), AND if I'm satisified with how this looks matched up with the top trim, then it's a go. Just don't know how I'm going to secure them.

If I DON'T like the way it looks, back to the drawing board.

Next step is figuring out a treatment to dress up those wheels, because I'll do ANYTHING to avoid starting work on my galley.
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Postby cracker39 » Sun May 07, 2006 1:36 pm

Ira, I haven't yet installed the middle paneling sheets inside. The carriage bolt heads are countersunk even with the surface of the 3/4" framing and the paneling will hide them when I put it on tomorrow. I used regular zinc bolts, fender washers, lock washers, and nuts, but covered the exposed parts with my roof coating to rust-proof them before I put the wheels and tires on.
Dale

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