Will a 4x8 TD be stable without the rear galley?

[Triumph3]

Thoughts/experiences appreciated.

Considering my wife's vintage business the TD design really fits in well with her small companies' general theme.

So I want to build a TD primarily to haul her display stuff to her weekend shows but also be smart enough to convert to a camper for summer trips (since my wife won't backpack/remote camp w/me:)).

So, wondering if the 4x8 HF TD will be structurly stable WITHOUT a rear kitchen galley? I just have visions of it collapsing since the rear galley cabinets seem play a key part in keeping the TD upright.

I might consider building a completely removable galley or maybe just a plywood brace on the top half to leave the floor open the length of the trailer (7-8').

Thanks!

[KennethW]

You should make the the sides of the hatch slide within the walls to lock the wall square when driving and install some angle brackets like these.
http://www.hiwtc.com/photo/products/19/00/07/744.jpg.

[len19070]

You definitely will need something to triangulate/stabilize it.

I've done it but I incorporated some BIG metal wall angles at the Hatch hinge cross member and the side.



I used the flat ones so I could hide them under the wood.

On this one the removable shelf worked out well. I just removed the shelf to use it as a "Box Trailer.



The shelf, still removable eventually evolved into this.



The removable Galley made this trailer a dual purpose item.

This trailer was built in 1987 and is still around today (Different owner).

Same Kid, same trailer.





Happy Trails

Len

[bobhenry]

Since you have no real galley will you have a rear hatch?

My 4x7 build has no galley and no hatch. I rely on slide on side tables for my "kitchen"

I did add a very shallow front wall and a side to side rear hanging cabinet to act as shear panels to take the wiggle out of the body.

Here is a link to the build to better explain with some pictures......

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=38489&start=45

[Triumph3]

Excellent suggestions...The angle brackets and slide out are something I like. I need to think this through instead of just winging it . I have the trailer and base built and that's a good stopping point for a day or so while I plan this.


bobhenry..
No rear hatch? Interesting thought since I just "assumed" I would have one. Hummm...well my wife does have a bunch of long old window shutters she hauls to her shows. Enjoyed looking through your build.

[Ron Dickey]

I have a hatch in the back but use as storage. help counter balance the front. but it pulls down the road just fine.

but I found it is best not to have it flat in the front or the wind plays with it. I added the trunk in the front so the air goes over.

[Shadow Catcher]

Axel placement probably has more to do in stability that weight in the rear.

[Dale M.]

Galley , no galley, no difference..... The galley would probably considered more as furniture than structural.... Yes it may be some what lighter in rear that if weight of galley is not present but all you have to be conscious of how you load trailer to maintain proper balance, same goes if you have a galley.... The general issue here is that you need to build the "structure" of shell with enough rigidity to keep it from flexing to much when in motion in lieu if having a wall between sleeping compartment and galley to maintain strength (square)........

If you have no hatch, you just have a simple box trailer and rear wall serves same purpose as galley wall for strength....

Dale

[legojenn]

Up here, it's common to see trailers built for ice fishing. They're usually a little bigger than most teardrops, but essentially they're just a box on a frame with no galley. I have yet to see sheared apart on the side of the road, but I have seen one sink.

[Tinbasher]

The shelves and bulkheads in the galley do provide some stabilisation to the structure but only when the hatch is open would it be a real problem. The suggestion of a properly locating hatch when closed should stiffen things up a lot.

I suppose if you were really concerned an internal wall with a door in it as far back as practicable would be a solution as would having the upper elements of the galley as a permanent feature with the base unit removable to allow the loading of displays etc when using as a cargo trailer.

[SmokeyBear12]

If you are determined to build your own then heed the advice of these experienced people. Little Guy http://www.golittleguy.com builds small tear drops specifically for hauling cargo. I have one with a dealer-added cupboard & fold-down table in the rear. I use it almost exclusively for camping. See my sig.

[Irmo Atomics]

Here's one that a guy in Australia is building to haul his motorcycle or camp in: http://vintagecaravans.proboards.com/th ... tea?page=8

[rowerwet]

if you only need to load long narrow stuff through the hatch (shutters) how about a galley wall in the normal location and shape but build only 6" of it from each side of the trailer, make the 3' of the foot wall, counter top, and back splash wall removeable. That way you will have a normal galley for camping and a nearly open back for hauling stuff.
The remaining 6" of wall and counter properly framed in place would give the sides all the strength needed.

[working on it]

You definitely will need something to triangulate/stabilize it.

I've done it but I incorporated some BIG metal wall angles at the Hatch hinge cross member and the side.

I used the flat ones so I could hide them under the wood.
Len

]

if you only need to load long narrow stuff through the hatch (shutters) how about a galley wall in the normal location and shape but build only 6" of it from each side of the trailer, make the 3' of the foot wall, counter top, and back splash wall removeable. That way you will have a normal galley for camping and a nearly open back for hauling stuff.
The remaining 6" of wall and counter properly framed in place would give the sides all the strength needed

Both have good solutions; may I suggest some specifics? The key is to keep the angle of the walls to roof/floor at 90 degree angles to each other. The most used method is a standing bulkhead, as most trailers have, and another is angle braces. Due to the weight of the wood, and wind forces involved, the brace must be strong enough to resist flexing or collapsing, so a gusset is a way to strengthen the brace (or bracket). I used gusseted angle braces to supplement my main bulkhead, top and bottom, and side to side.

Photo094.jpg (26.53 KiB) Viewed 943 times

I used this Simpson Strongtie piece:

b8de680d-3fe1-46b5-a4bb-5e2bb6f11915_1000.jpg (40.43 KiB) Viewed 943 times

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100375243?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&N=5yc1vZ615Z615&R=100375243# Although it works in conjunction with the bulkhead, a larger version would be needed as a stand-alone. If you don't need the entire 4x4 cross-section completely clear of supporting wall structure, then fabricate triangulating wood pieces in a "cut-away" bulkhead form. Another type of brace could also do this, as a bolt/screw-on support, a shelf support (meant to carry substantial weight, with triangulation included), like this:

010254011929.jpg (11.98 KiB) Viewed 943 times

http://www.lowes.com/pd_48988-46882-25223PHLLG_0__?productId=3034237&Ntt=heavy+duty+shelf+bracket&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dheavy%2Bduty%2Bshelf%2Bbracket&facetInfo=

[Triumph3]

Ok picked up on a couple of ideas...
I like the L-Bracket (gusset and/or angle bracket), also learned about securely latching the rear hatch and I think I'll incorporate a 6" partial cross brace/partial cabinet which still allows loading/unloading easily. Once built I'll later add in the slider brackets for removable storage.

ps: all comments have been appreciated . This forum is similar to http://www.hammockforums.net (for those who prefer hammock's for a good nights rest outdoors ). Lotsa quality feedback.
I'll definitely post some pics when finished with my first TD!