KCStudly wrote:Slow down a minute and think a little slower.
Yes, you are right, I need to do that. I usually think at 100 MPH though all over the place, and not always in the right places, like when I decided to space the crossbeams at 18" center to center. I'll try to slow it down and focus on one thing till I think about everything I need to think about for that particular topic.
KCStudly wrote:Let's recap: 1) you have several threads going all at the same time and it is getting confusing. There's nothing wrong, IMO, with asking for help in your build thread. If you don't get an answer, or one that makes sense to you, sure, ask in general or tips (either way, be sure to link them to make it convenient for the reader); 2) you are trying to build your floor flat with the ply supported just above the fenders; and 3) at 18 inches on center you have a xmbr that lands where the fender support and wheel are.
1) That is correct, and I can understand that. I was just trying to follow the directions, as the build journal section states:
...ask your questions in the appropriate forums BUT document your build here...preferably in a single thread...dates for updates, are appreciated....
Now I do intend to link questions into the build thread, and I admit I haven't been very good doing that. However, that is why I did not ask the question in my build thread.
2 & 3) That is also correct.
KCStudly wrote:So I am assuming that you will use two (or more) partial pieces of ply to get the 57+ inch width with a seam 3x18=48 inches from the back, landing on one of the xmbrs and you want to extend the xmbrs wider so that the outer wooden rail passes by the outside of the fender.
The seam does not need to be 48 inches from the back. Because of the xmbrs running aross the trailer, I figured that I would use an entire sheet of OSB, lined up on one side. It's 8' long, which is what I want. To get 57" wide, I'd cut a 9" wide, 8' piece off the other one, and use the rest of the sheet to make some of the galley walls/shelves.
KCStudly wrote:Why not header behind the fender longitudinally along the frame rail on each side using the same 1x4 (...or was 1x3?), then 'T' the short xmbr into these headers. Like this...
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This gives you the option of cutting the outside rail down or out completely in front of the wheel (remember that the wall supports the floor, not the other way around). That way you could change the shape of the wheel arch more to your liking and ditch the little fenders. just be sure to protect the inner fender well... well... 'er... well.
That is a great idea. In fact, it looks somewhat familiar... I think I'm going to go do a little more research tonight. Not because your floor idea won't work, because it'll work great. But because that general shape looks somewhat familiar, although the ones I've seen like that have raised wheel wells, IIRC. And if I had slowed down a little, I may have remembered that I had seen something like that before.
Hmm, of course a wall would be very stiff, it's just a tall skinny beam. Although I wasn't thinking of it like that, I was thinking of a stiff, lightweight box sitting on top of a floor. Also the ability to get rid of that 1x4 between the two cross xmbrs means I'm not limited in how it looks or have restricted access to the tire.
KCStudly wrote:BobHenry had a tire cut down by one of those bolts. Maybe he had the larger tires, but don't forget that in the real world there are dynamics involved that you can't measure statically; centripetal tire growth, load and impact deflections, perhaps other factors. I like the idea of moving the fender fasteners away from the tread, but the fewer holes you put in your box, the less likely you are to have water get in and rot. The wheel wells need special attention because they will be constantly abused by sand, pebbles and flung water trying to attack your attempts to seal.
Ouch. And good point, tires have some crazy loads implyied on them while they are in motion. And yes, I agree holes in the wood in the wheel wells may not be the best idea.
rowerwet wrote:one cheap way to make wheel well liners, cut a plastic 55 gallon drum, with a heat gun you can make it almost any shape you want, and keep it hidden under the trailer.
Hmm, I can get those fairly locally for $15 each, they are perpetually on Craigslist around here. Also they would protect a larger area then the stock fenders.
Okay, thank you both for the information. At this point, there is nothing further I can do on my trailer, until I buy wood or my bearings and seals come in. I think I will use this time to slow down a bit, think carefully on my next few steps, and also take my mind off it for a bit by working on one of my other projects or making a hot wire cutter for the foam I'll be buying. I should also review my bookmarks folder for teardrops, I made a bunch of them, but I can't even remember what they are all about. Probably relavent information I'll need in the future.
A Foamie’ is the “Thinking man’s" trailer ...Ladies too ... 
I’ve got basically 1.5” clearance now , but even with the wife and my friend in the trailer I can’t see any spring deflection... I may get a rub ... may not ...don’t know ... another “test” and something to improve later on ... That’s the Great thing around here , if you don’t know , then test it out , and if it works , tell everybody .... and if it it Doesn’t work , be Sure to tell everybody !!! 
on the new models instead of metal, and thinned up the base of the saw. 
I'll either get an older, sturdier refurbished Ryobi from CPO Outlets or a Skilsaw. I did pick up some no rust or corrosion lifetime warranty Deckmate #8 x 2" screws to assemble the 1x4s, and a set of Ryobi forstner bits to drill out a bolt head hole where two of the 1x4s lay over bolts.